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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2003 - 03:03am PT
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Another "list" climb, FA by Tony Sorenson, Mike Graham and Rich Accomazzo, 7/73. I wonder if they were making fun of DAFF (Dome Across From Fairview)...Right of Crescent Arch?
This climb ascends a "minor" right facing corner to the right of Crescent Arch. Pitch 1 goes up the corner and traverses right under the "roof" to a pair of bolts. Pitch 2 continues right then up a water streak to a ledge with a pine on it. There are moves to 5.8 on both pitches.
Fortunately, Gary Carpenter (ever tolerant of The List) reminded me at the gym last Thursday to bring some tri-cams so he could learn how to place them... I just read the ASCA page on the bolt replacement, Greg recommends that there is good pro on the 2nd pitch using small tri-cams, SO RIGHT!
We scrambled up the slabs and belayed just at the begining of the corner. This is a crack, jam, layback start with lots of good pro in the crack. Just right of the crack is the awesome golden granite patina which is so slick. Up you go to the top of the crack, then traverse, without pro, to the bolts. Lots of wonderful knobs for feet and hands.
From the belay bolts (thank you ASCA) traverse out to the right. You are heading for the water streak, which is the obvious line with knobs, knobs, knobs. Up you go to the bolt... but what seems like a typically runout TM climb is actually relatively well protected, horizontal weaknesses intersect the water streak every 10' or so... a blue alien, red alien, pink, red and blue tri-cam all found a home in a pocket or horizontal crack. You can actually sew up the route! It was fun.
Up onto the ledge to the bolt station. We replaced the slings and rapped to the first belay station of Chvchichaschti. PLEASE NOTE that this rap is every bit of 100', two ropes would be best! (we had two 60m, overkill). From this station we rapped to the ground.
A very fun route... with the pro I'd give it a P.G. rating, compared to other TM R's...
Crescent Arch seems so benign when viewed from R.C.A., especially in the sun and all...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 30, 2003 - 12:20am PT
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Hey Ed,
The 1983 guide says FA by "Tony Sorenson..." but the 1986 guide says FA by "Tobin Sorenson...", I assume the 83 guide was a mistake (never heard of a Tony Sorenson).
Thanks for the rebolting kudos, I replaced those in 2001, although one of the anchor bolts was replaced some time ago (the anchor on top of pitch 1 had two 1/4" bolts and a good 5/16" buttonhead with stainless hanger, I replaced one of the 1/4", removed the other).
I wonder if Rick Accomazzo's middle intial is "C" - an alternate route name possibility...
Greg
PS For some seriously irrelevant climbing trivia about the route you rapped, my girlfriend (who's Swiss) spotted the Swiss tongue-twister: Chvchichaschtli (very roughly Ho-He-Hash-t-li) - it means "kitchen cabinet". Also has a lot of "ch"'s as a clue to which country it's from...
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