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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2006 - 07:42pm PT
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Does anyone ever climb here anymore?
I have spent the day trying to learn photoshop so this is a bit of an experiment. Bare with me.
These are all first ascent photo's from early to mid 80's. Some of the route names I remember many others, I don't. I have always found the place to be remote, quiet, and having very adventurous climbing. It is good steep crack climbing with the climbs requiring a variety of crack techniques.
Ken
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 13, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
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Wow! Where the hell is that place?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
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Post up some of your own Richard.
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 13, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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Isn't that accesed via the Sagehen Summit turnoff or something like that?
'Went out there about 10 years ago on a drive about with Hawkins.
And 26 years ago on a woodcutting junket with Vern, out on the western end, we did some parallel log river crossings in Stimbo's truck.
'Always wanted to do some actual climbing...
(Nice try Richard -Ha! Post Up Please)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 13, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
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Fricking toasty in the Summer out there.
There are a myriad of boulders peppered around out there too.
mythically remote in a way for the whole area.
haven't climbed, but wanted to to.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 13, 2006 - 10:37pm PT
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"Nice try Richard -Ha! Post Up Please"
Can't!! Marty has all my east side photos for guidebook endeavors. (Buttermilks too, Ken). I may have a few stray prints around though -- I'll look.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 13, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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Got any Photos of "Gutter Ball"?
That big blood stain that Fred Feldman left?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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The second picture is my first attempt on Gutterball. Eventually finished it with Al Dude. Great climb I thought.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
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I found some more photos.
Errett leading Right Up My Alley.
Don't remember the name of this one. Could be Grant leading.
Looks like Richard Large to me.
Might be Yosemite Sam.
Don't remember.
Schultz on Cantalope.
This is at nearby Wild Cow Canyon.
Same place.
Ken
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 14, 2006 - 05:50pm PT
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Coincidentally...I was out there with my husband and Bruckman (Boogles, Boogleman, Bruckles, etc., etc. however you know the one-armed bat) weekend before 4th of July. It looked like no one had been out there for a long time. We found and slid down the South trail, went a bit too far, slogged back up in the pumice dust and then hiked along the base of the rocks for a ways. It's pretty overgrown and we went for a while before we could find something recognizable in the guide (latest Mammoth guide).
The guys did "Clark Kent" (we didn't have a lot daylight left so only one climb). It was shady so temps ok but would've been a b&^#$%& in the sun. North parking area trail is much better (still really faint) so we know for next time to use that one. Beautiful area, only passed a forest service worker on the roads...seemed nice and remote if that's what you're after.
Sage Hen Summit area is on the other side of the 120 - went out there too and did the Hair Raiser Buttress which was a blast.
Meant to post myself and see if anyone had been to Dexter lately!
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:01pm PT
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crusher. You are now a member of the exclusive Poin Dexter Club.
Ken -- nice shot of Mister P. He's a Wild Cow for sure.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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Hey I'm honored, thanks. I'll try to post the pics when I get home. At work now daydreaming about about being __ (anywhere else). TGIF!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:09pm PT
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man o man this all looks so fantastico.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
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Chicken Skinner... I'm driving with caution here because Memory Lane if full of potholes, but...
The photo you list as "maybe Grant leading" -- Door Into Summer, a real beauty. Some one's butt (maybe Grant's) is leading.
"Looks like Mr. Large to me" is actually Mr. Feldman I believe.
Yosemite Sam -- definitely not but I don't know what it is. Sam is one of the prettiest corners there and I would recognize it for sure.
You "don't remember" -- looks like Vapor Lock to me. Someone with a Large ass is belaying you.
Caveat Emptor.
In the next-to-last photo in the first batch, it looks like you dropped your lollipop.
Dexter is remote, wild, quiet, beautiful, but sport climbers would probably rather go to the gym. Rock quality varies widely. Do the multi-starred routes and you won't deal with any vertical dirt.
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:42pm PT
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Was out there last summer and not a sign of anyone around. A welcome refresher. Not sure about Wild cow canyon but I used to spend some time climbing in North canyon just south of the 120, North canyon, south of the 120???
JB
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2006 - 12:57pm PT
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Crusher,
I would like to see those photos. Did you like Clark Kent? It is cool that some people are going out there. It is hard to find the routes but, that is part of the adventure.
Emmett, I think you are right, your memory is faring better than mine. It does look like a lollipop. I know I have more photos, haven't found them yet.
Tarbuster you would love it.
Ken
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 15, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
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Hi Ken,
As soon as I figure out how to post them I will - I'm one of those retards who is having trouble with photo bucket!
I didn't get to do the climb : ( - we ran out of time, but the guys thought it was really fun and that the rock was great. Hope to go back later this Summer...heard the Bachar crag to the north was really good too. We loved the whole area and the view out to Boundary Peak.
(Off the subject of Dexter but in the general area I loved the Hair Raiser Buttress and I wasn't leading so I got to relax!!)...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 15, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
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Nice place out there...I put up a bunch of routes to the left of those pics on a slightly overhanging flat pocketed wall. Excellent rock quality...I'll try to dig up some photos!
Cheers, jb
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2006 - 09:00pm PT
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John, Those routes look good. I never put a bolt in out there because I was afraid 1/4" bolts would not hold in that volcanic rock.
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 15, 2006 - 09:02pm PT
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also,
jb,
there was maybe a boreal add back in the 80's which featured you solo on some of that action?
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