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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 6, 2006 - 01:19pm PT
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The thread about short-fixing got my thinking about how to set up an anchor that could potentially arrest a factor1 fall if one of the first pieces off the belay rips. I'm sure there has been a bunch written about various techniques. Screamers, the wieght of your haulbag, etc. For whatever reason my pea brain seems to convulse when confronted with lengthy written descriptions of physical setups. It likes to see pictures. Does anyone have photos of anchors they're proud of?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Slight hijack-
I just picked up Jared Ogdens big wall book, put out by the mountaineers. It's got some great illustrations of anchor rigging, including using the bag and a screamer.
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
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Thanks Mike. That's pretty much what I do also. I normally use a clove hitch instead of a figure eight on the fixed line side because it's easier to untie after being wieghted.
I thought you might have some variation on this when soloing. It sounds like most stick to the same basic setup.
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SoloBolo
Trad climber
groveland, ca
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super 8 with 2 lockers. if your short-fixing your probably not hauling a very heavy pig so i would just dock it to a bolt. that anchor above would take way to long to set up unless your not doing a push and just feel like short-fixing
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marky
climber
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could we have more photos with anchors other than bolts
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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Jeeze I dont know dude that rig up above looks like too much movement to me. I must be a impatient pussy.
I usually just use a couple of butterfly knots and have a double figure eight as a backup knot. But I've been called sketchy a few times so uhh yea thats my penny and a half.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Soloing Spaceshot I was trying to link like a fiend and ended up at that crap anchor a pitch and a half up only I didn't know how crap it was. Actually, to be honest, I sorta did, but I just psyched myself up back on my couch that I could use it without being scared except I got up to it for real and peed myself.
ANYHOO...the top junk (an ok drilled pin, a half-out bolt and a pulled bolt, I think) is nicely equalized leading to the lower anchor which is nicely equalized with two cams. A little hard to see, think red webolette and yellow webolette.
Two additional points:
1. Construction of this marvelous anchor of anchors required only about 90 minutes during a "speed" ascent.
2. It has ZERO upward pull, which I realized a few moves later, and proceeded to pee down my other leg for a nice symmetry.
PS: Think of this photo as a simultaneous what to do/what not to do learning moment.
Oh, and one additional PS: Last time I was up there the anchor had been retroed with a new bolt, so it's good to go. This also makes my anchor a one of a kind historical masterpiece.
The end
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Here's a good example of what NOT to do.
Photo: Dennis Rutherford
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