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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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Posts have been coming out of Bozeman on Facebook (and other places on the web) of this tragic news.
Details will come out as time and the grieving process pass...
Sad day for the Festival:-(
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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Posted from a Bozeman resident ice climber/guide on FB:
"Guy Lacelle, a fantastic canadian ice climber, was killed by an avalanche during the Bozeman Ice Festival. This was during the "Ice Breaker" pro ice climbing comp. Another sad day in a tough year for world-class climbers. Didn't want to post his name earlier, but now it is online in a number of places."
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 10, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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Ohhhh noooo. Such a nice, gentle man. I'll never forget my first intro to Guy. I was calling the Ouray Ice Festival and was reading his bio over the mic. His goal in life was simply to be a good person.
I'll never forget you, Guy. My world is a better place because you are in it. Rest well my friend.
Malcolm
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Dec 10, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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Oh Gezzzz, death is a "hard rocker" and I'm sure this was so unexpected by family and loved ones. My heart, soul and prayers go out to the grieving. Having experienced unexpected death of the one closest to you I feel the pain all over again. The event, the professionals he worked with and competed with must all be shocked and saddened. I pray for all. As always if ever anyone wants to email me please do....or if I can help in any way.
Lynne Leichtfuss
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Conrad
climber
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
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At a loss for words...
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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dammit
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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I tree planted for the same company as Guy in 98 and 99. I only really met him in passing but did stop by his house at one point while on an errand in town. I always knew that he climbed but it wasn't until much later that I realized how respected he was.
My strongest memory of him was of him going around one of our planting camps cutting down snags with a chainsaw and swearing his head off as only a Quebecer can (CALICE, TABARNAK, OSTIE). Other than that he was quiet and efficient which I'm guessing would also describe his climbing.
There is also a legendary story of him rescuing an injured planter from a predatory bear. He was repeatedly forced to put down the planter, who needed to be carried, in order to fight off the bear with a shovel.
I have recollections of him telling a story about go to solo a route. He brought a couple of his dogs along and they started freaking out as he approached the ice. Because of the fuss he decided to walk away that day and a while later the climb down behind him. He thought maybe the dogs could hear strange sounds in the ice.
Sad news.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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The great ice master leaves and moves on ......
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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"Un grand Monsieur de la glace."
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
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hey there, say, i had never known of so many avalanche tragedies, until i learned of this whole "other world of winter sports, etc" from winter-news here, on the supertopo...
(perhaps local news skips over such serious issues?) but, this IS snow country here, and so IS a vast part of america...
thanks to supertopo, i've learned to pass the word on to folks that i know, to at least learn as much as they can about the word "avalanche"----far too often, it has been made fun of in movies, tv, etc...
this news is so awful... :(
i am very sad to hear of this...
my condolences and prayers to his loved ones...
:(
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:48pm PT
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Once again we must say goodbye to one of our bright lights.
R.I.P.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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awh man...
This is perhaps the first Avalanche related death of an ice climber in Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman Mt. Most climbers rarely use beacons in Hyalite, the general rule is when theres a ton of new snow, stay out of the big avy prone gullies.
I was just there over Thanksgiving and conditions were setting up for some really weak layers in the snowpack.
Really unfortunate news, my condolences to friends and family, and the Bozeman climbing community.
:(
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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Thats just not right.. :( So sad.
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grover
Trad climber
The Gar, BC.
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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Shocking news.
R.I.P. Guy.
Condolences to all.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 10, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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Met Guy at Mt Lemon playing with his dog and kicking a hacky sack around. Gave my wife a few days off and Guy and I climbed. Super mellow and friendly dude. Best pick-up partner ever. So sad.
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roadman
climber
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Dec 10, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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I met Guy when I worked in Ouray. He was super nice and definitely a master ice climber.
My heart goes out to his family.
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Erik Christensen
Boulder climber
Bozeman, MT
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Dec 10, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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It's a sad day in Bozeman. I hadn't heard of him until the last few days b/c of the ice fest. I only heard good things from everyone. Just this morning I told a co-worker he was in town for the festival and the co-worker got a big smile on face and proceeded to talk about an excellent slideshow Guy gave a few years ago. I was really looking forward to meeting him.
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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Dec 10, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
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Met him in Indian Creek over Thanksgiving a few years ago, he was alone so I asked him to join us, and ended up climbing and camping with him for several days. Never mentioned much about ice climbing, super modest. I found out later he was a legend in Canada. The thing I remember most is that he was really nice to my daughter who was only 5 or so, and trying to learn how to jam those splitters.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Dec 10, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
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Sorry to hear about this. Very good climber.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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Ugh. Makes me both angry and sad to hear this terrible news.
My heart goes out to friends and family and the ice climbing community.
-Brian in SLC
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Dec 10, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
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Oh man. What a sad loss. I loved the old article in CLIMBING several years back. That shot of him tree planting was inspiring.....anybody have access to that? Post it if you do. Seemed like a mellow, focused dude who just loved being on the cold steep stuff.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 10, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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What a terrible tragedy...With all the risk that he has faced over the years this is truly jarring news.
Sincerest condolences to his family and friends. He was an absolutely awesome and heroic climber. As Bachar was to stone, Guy was to ice. Huge loss...
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 10, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Damn. I climbed with him at JTree many years ago and have followed his exploits since then. Great guy, this is a big loss.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 10, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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Another Master, killed in action. How very very sad.
I never had the opportunity to meet Guy, but certainly wanted to as he was one of our country's finest. [Even if he was from Quebec ;) ]
My condolences to his friends and family. He musta been a hella fine guy. I'm so sorry.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 10, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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My heart goes out to all those who Loved Guy
Peace
karl
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Dec 10, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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What a tragedy! It's hard to imagine. Such a humble and outstanding climber and human being gone.
here's a short clip of Guy doing what he loved, and was incredible at:
http://www.alstrinfilms.com/norway.html
Alpinist reports: "Lacelle and climbing partner were in a gully between climbs, about four miles from Grotto Falls, when the slide struck. The snow carried Lacelle down two pitches of waterfall ice.
His climbing partner sustained a minor injury. Two others witnessed the avalanche from safe ground. " (http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web09f/newswire-guy-lacelle-dies);
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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Story in the latest Bozeman Daily Chronicle edition:
http://hosted.ap.org/dynamic/stories/M/MT_ICE_CLIMBING_DEATH_MTOL-?SITE=MTBOZ&SECTION=HOME&TEMPLATE=DEFAULT
HELENA, Mont. (AP) -- World-class ice climber Guy Lacelle died Thursday morning in an avalanche during an ice climbing event in southwestern Montana, his sponsor confirmed.
John Irvine, the sports marketing manager for Arc'teryx, said he learned of Lacelle's death from a festival organizer. Arc'teryx makes ice climbing equipment and sponsors Lacelle and is a sponsor of the Bozeman Ice Festival.
Irvine called Lacelle a "fanatical ice climber" and called his death a "huge, huge loss."
"He loves climbing and he loves sharing the sport with other people," Irvine said. "That's what his life was all about."
Irvine said Lacelle was a foreman for a tree planting company in British Columbia during the summer and took the winters off to ice climb.
Gallatin County Search and Rescue responded to the Grotto Falls area of Hyalite Canyon Thursday afternoon to retrieve the body, though Sheriff Jim Cashell would not confirm the climber's name.
Thursday was the first day of the Bozeman Ice Festival at Hyalite. The festival promotes the sport of ice climbing, educates ice climbers about climbing skills and safe climbing techniques, and introduces climbers to cutting edge ice climbing clothing and equipment.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Dec 10, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Total Bummer.........
Can't wait for this year to end....
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Dec 10, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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I just saw Guy a couple weeks ago in Red Rocks. He had his 15 y/o dog with him. When I asked him his dogs name, Guy said, "doesn't really matter he/she can't really hear anymore, but a nice pat goes along ways."
What an amazing man, he will be greatly missed
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Dec 10, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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really sad news here. condolences to this gifted man's family and friends. he and his inspirational exploits will be sorely missed by everyone
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 10, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
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Horrible news…
Condolences to all of Guy’s friend and family.
Brian
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10b4me
Ice climber
Ice Caves at the Sads
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Dec 11, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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that is a bummer
condolences to his family
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sergio64
Trad climber
Sin City
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Dec 11, 2009 - 02:11am PT
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I want to cry.
Three weeks ago I climbed next to Guy Lacelle in Red Rock. He was on Ragged Edges and I was practicing some jumaring techniques on the route next to it. We stopped to watch him move effortlessly up the route. We briefly talked to him and his friends while belaying each other, then his partners moved to Chicken Eruptus while Guy took a rest. I asked him why he was in RR climbing and he told me he was recovering from a shoulder surgery that he had had two weeks earlier.
And now I read this horrible story. I feel bad, really bad now.
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Dec 11, 2009 - 04:08am PT
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hey cruised past us once in the Alps on year with real grace and big smile.
best to his closest.
Rob
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Littleton
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Dec 11, 2009 - 10:33am PT
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I remember when I was an ice climbing noob looking for a mentor, I picked Guy, even though he didn't know it. I had the opportunity to watch him climb several times in Ouray. He climbed with such fluid stregnth and grace. He made me want to be a better climber. I'll think of Guy next time I'm out on the ice. This is very sad news.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Dec 11, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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excerpt from:
http://www.theprovince.com/news/Canadian+climber+dies+Montana+avalanche/2329651/story.html
A well-known Canadian ice climber has died in an avalanche in Montana.
Guy Lacelle, a native of Hawkesbury, Ont., who lived in Prince George, B.C., was climbing up a gully in Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman, Mont., Thursday, when the climbers above him hit a batch of wind-drifted snow, according to Mark Staples, an avalanche expert at the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Centre in Bozeman.
"That swept down the gully, and although it was not a very large slide, it swept Guy Lacelle over the ice climb he had just ascended," Staples told Canwest News Service Friday morning.
"He died as a result of trauma."
Lacelle was in Bozeman taking part in the annual Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival.
Jim Oberhofer, the under-sheriff of Gallatin County, said the accident happened while Lacelle was resting in a non-climbing area between two ascents in the contest.
Lacelle was not wearing his safety rope, Oberhofer said.
"He fell 250-300 feet . . . ," Oberhofer said. "He was in that area between the two climbing areas . . . It's not a technical part of the climb. It's just a hiking area between the two areas, and I'm assuming that's why he was not roped off."......
...The slide occurred during the Ice Breaker competition of the festival, which pairs a local climber with a non-local to climb as many routes in the canyon as possible in one day, according to a report in the Bozeman Daily Chronicle. Local guide Adam Knoff was not injured, it said.....
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Conner
Mountain climber
Donnelly, Idaho
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Dec 11, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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I am so sad to hear this news.... had a chance to meet Guy at the Ouray Ice Festival in '05. Such a strong yet gentle man. Another tragic loss. What is going on??? Be safe everyone.... death seems to be knocking on far too many doors these last few years.
Connie Self
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 11, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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oh god, what a loss - condolences to all who knew him.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 11, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
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Thanks maldaly
So I'm not clear, was he unroped soloing?
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Dec 11, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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To me it sounded like he had topped out a climb and, unroped, was in the process of walking off or to the next climb when he was hit with the slide. Even though it was a small avalanche it was enough to carry him over the ice fall.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 11, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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Thanks .....
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pvalchev
Ice climber
Bay Area, CA / Calgary. AB
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Dec 11, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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What a sad day in the ice climbing community. He is an inspiration to many and will be remembered forever. I was not lucky enough to meet him in person, but seeing him in videos and hearing about him he painted a picture of a very modest person who was a true master at what he did.
One of those people you always heard about, but never from. I still can't believe these news...
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Alpine Raven
Mountain climber
Eugene, OR
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Dec 11, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
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Ahhh, man....this is the last thing I wanted to read about. I'm so sad to hear about this. We were the same age. He was such an inspiration and so layed back about his climbs. A great loss. Makes me really pause and reflect. My heart goes out to his wife and many friends.
Adieu mon ami.
David
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 11, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
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I just got word about this tragedy. Guy was so solid: as a friend; in his relaxed and quietly confident personality; in his self-awareness; in his concern for the planet and all its' plants and creatures and fellow humans; and of course in his elegant climbing.
Although we've lost the warm corporeal presence and inspiring example of Guy's self expression through the medium of frozen water in its' myriad forms, his spirit will forever be woven in the core of ice climbing and the hearts of those who cherish the coldest sport.
Go with infinite love and deep appreciation, my friend.
But damn, Guy, I miss you instantly...
-Jeff Lowe
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 11, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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I just arrived in Patagonia and heard the horrific news. Guy was one of the best people I have encountered in my climbing career. Humble to a fault, he was the type of person who left a lasting impression with his ability, composure and kindness. He will be missed.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 11, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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Very, very sad. I'm sorry for Guy's many friends and family.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 11, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
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fwiw, montanaice.com claims the slide occured above "The Dribbles."
Two steep and avy prone gullies lead up above the Dribbles, one to the left and one to the right. The one lookers right actually leads to a climb called "Avalanche Gully."
Can't say for certain where the tragedy took place exactly.
Guy was climbing with Bozeman local Adam Knoff, they were involved in a Ice Fest competetion to climb the most number of pitches in a day in the canyon.
:(
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 11, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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Sincere condolences to friends and family.
Cherish your time awake with one another on the path kids.
I didn't know him: 'sounds like he left some darn good footsteps behind.
Thanks for the links everybody.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Dec 11, 2009 - 09:16pm PT
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Stunned by the news this morning.
Guy seemed like such a cool person, no spray or strut, just an awesome climber. Never really met him, but I recall the day years back when Guy danced past Brutus & me on a chandeliered WI4-5 pitch on the Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway...didn't even seem to be placing pro, casual as can be, very polite...
"who was that masked man???"
(we figured it out later at a belay when his partner called him "Guy," and she confirmed it was him)
Good memories of a brief encounter with one of the greats.
Deepest sympathy and condolences to Guy's family, friends and partners
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 11, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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Some additiional details (from the avy report):
Yesterday in Hyalite Canyon a world renowned Canadian ice climber, Guy Lacelle, was killed in an avalanche. He and his partner had finished the climb Silken Falls and were hiking up a narrow drainage to a higher climb when two other climbers above them triggered a pocket of wind drifted snow that ran down the gully. His partner was off to the side, but Guy was hit and carried off the climb to his death. Our sympathies and condolences go out to his family and friends, many of whom are in town for the Bozeman Ice Festival this weekend.
Truely heartbreaking.
Take care out there, folks.
-Brian in SLC
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 11, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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awh man...
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Gilwad
climber
Frozen In Somewhere
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Dec 12, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
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I'm gonna really miss him and miss the very idea of the man Guy was. For the rest of my life, when I encounter an ethically sketchy situation, I'm going to try and think, "What would Guy do?"
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Dec 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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bump. To a talented and humble person who only wanted to climb, and wasn't concerned overly with sponsorship and spray. Just with being out there, and doing what he loved. My very best to his wife and to his beloved dogs.
Pam
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Conrad
climber
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Dec 14, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Not all is cream and peaches. This past Thursday the climbing community lost one of it’s guiding lights. Guy Lacelle of Canada fell to his death in Hyalite Canyon. A small pocket avalanche caught Guy as he was transitioning from moderate to low angle terrain. Guy will be dearly missed by the international climbing community.
He was a tree planter because he loved to care for nature. He was an ice climber because he loved nature in its most rare and ephemeral state. These two activities defined his life. Perhaps there is no better testament to his place on the planet than the life he brought - to the spirit of climbing and the trees that sustain us.
He was out last year with a shoulder injury and was back in form. He arrived in Bozeman to climb the fine conditions the fall of 09 is expereincing. The week before Doug Chabot (director of the Avalanche center and the man in the you tube post up thread) Alex and Susan Lussier and Guy joined Jenni and me for dinner. He had 3rd classed Cleopatra's Needle that day (down climbing Twin Falls was the crux) and he was as calm as ever. He hadn't seen the boys since they were 2 and 6. His connection to their father, Alex Lowe, was palpable. And true to Guy form he stayed around to help with the dishes.
We are all very saddened by this. Marge and Guy's family are with us in our thoughts.
For the climbers in the vicinity you have my empathy. Being a survivor is fraught with guilt - it is bear on your back.
Miss you Guy……. thanks for the 17 years of friendship. The day we caught Happy Days in nick is one of my most memorable moments.
Peace.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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Dec 14, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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I'd heard of him, but never met.
Sounds like an ace of a great dude.
We'll miss you, Guy.
All the Best to his family & friends.
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Dec 14, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
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I am heart broken...
I am so sorry.
AFS
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Dec 17, 2009 - 03:10am PT
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Haven't been on this for a bit - travelling with kids on hockey tournament expeditions and currently re-habbing a separated shoulder from my own on ice follies. Started going through the back list to find this shocker.
Didn't know him but knew of him of course = definitely an excellent bloke who added big value to the lives of those around him. His spirit will continue in the Canadian climbing community though and friends will remember well his exploits as they forge their own connection with ice and rock. Condolences to all his family and others he touched along the trail.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 17, 2009 - 11:17am PT
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Conrad, thank you for sharing... I am deeply sorry for the loss of your friend.
For folks unfamiliar with Hyalite canyon,
Silken Falls is on the first rock bench above the trees in the far right hand side of that photo.
Ps. It was nice to meet you in the Canyon parking lot around Thanksgiving. You have been a hero and an inspiration of mine for nearly two decades. Thanks for sharing a beer with us and hanging out. Best wishes.
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Chief
climber
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Dec 17, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
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I'm saddened to hear about Guy's passing.
Don't know where we first met, ice climbing in Field, Josh, Squamish, I forget. What a genuinely decent and gentle man.
He set a fine example and I'll miss him.
Sympathies and condolences to his family and all fortunate enough to have known him.
Perry
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Dec 17, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
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What an inspiring climber! Guy, you simply are a great human being. We will miss you.
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huh
climber
anchorage
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Dec 18, 2009 - 01:24am PT
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He was a friend in Valdez to dogs, adults, and children. Cheers to Guy's spirit.
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Asha
Ice climber
Woodstock, NY
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Dec 20, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
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I am so sorry...
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