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johnkelley

climber

Anchorage Alaska

Sep 28, 2013 - 02:37pm PT

"Funny to see these ice Boys complaining about retro bolts when the routes they are doing were done in Superguides, hummingbirds, MacInnes Ice tools and 12 point crampons. Sacless to say the least."

Hahaha where did you come up with this BS? Forty new, as in previously unclimbed, grade V and IV routes in the last decade. Not a single bolt on any of them.

johnkelley

climber

Anchorage Alaska

Sep 28, 2013 - 02:41pm PT

Oh and pretty much every alpine climber still uses 12 point crampons.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 02:48pm PT

Kelly wrote: Hedge I learned to climb in North Carolina over 25 years ago. It was the norm. Wouldn't know a thing about sport climbing, other then it's neither, always avoided it like the plague...

But the dumb ass continues to post about Shelf Rd and Penitente Canyon.

What a complete ass...John my last post when right over your head.

Your little snow slogs don't count. Where I walk my is steeper. Child play.

SeeR...do you like me better in shorts. On-sighting a 5.12 on Spearhead, RMNP

[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/spearhead.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/spearhead.jpg[/img][/url]

85 degree wall which is 50 degrees steeper than Kelly's snow slogs.

SeeR wrote:You are making the same (the very same point) over and over and over again to a compulsive crescendo of compulsive neurosis.

Funny that you say nothing about your butt-buddy Kelly for doing the same thing. Different tribe.

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Sep 28, 2013 - 02:57pm PT

"Ages ago I did a route in Penitente called Whipping Post.
Great route. It was the most tightly bolted route I'd ever done. We called it clipping post!
I seem to remember the guidebook saying it had been retro bolted.
What's the story?"

Drljefe...the route was done by Mark Milligan and me on lead with two bolts, Doug Ranck came back and add I think added 6 more...a little over kill for a fifty foot route.

In fact a number of routes in Penitente and Shelf Rd have been retrobolted since the FA.

Ok, cool.
(So...I was actually attempting to get this sh!tshow back on topic...I guess I should know better)
You did the FA in proper old school style. Somebody came back and (over)retrobolted it.
You chose not to chop. Were you pissed? Did you just not care?

I thought this might actually relate to the original post about route "ownership", and where the thread ended up going, for a while at least(retrobolting), before turning into what it is now.

For the record, I've never climbed at Shelf, we have our own version here in Az.
But Penitente...what a fun and beautiful spot. Thanks for all you did there Bob.

johnkelley

climber

Anchorage Alaska

Sep 28, 2013 - 03:00pm PT

Sep 28, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Kelly wrote: Hedge I learned to climb in North Carolina over 25 years ago. It was the norm. Wouldn't know a thing about sport climbing, other then it's neither, always avoided it like the plague...

But the dumb ass continues to post about Shelf Rd and Penitente Canyon.

What a complete ass...John my last post when right over your head.

Your little snow slogs don't count. Where I walk my is steeper. Child play.

I've done several of your routes. I climb about a full number grade harder on your lines then I usually do. You should put your money where your mouth is and go try a few of the routes I've done. On that same note, did you buy that plane ticket yet? I'll buy it for you if you like?

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 03:02pm PT

Drljefe..was only piss in that he didn't ask me. I was a little more upset about When the Whip Comes Down...hard 5.11+ with Rp's for gear.

Now sports 10 bolts..same guy.

Kelly wrote: 've done several of your routes. I climb about a full number grade harder on your lines then I usually do.

My routes inspire a lot of people to climb better...thanks.

Yes please do buy my ticket. I have time off in October.

Kelly wrote: Hedge I learned to climb in North Carolina over 25 years ago. It was the norm. Wouldn't know a thing about sport climbing, other then it's neither, always avoided it like the plague...

Liar or full of sh#t...which one Kelly?

Todd Eastman

climber

Bellingham, WA

Sep 28, 2013 - 03:07pm PT

JK, with the previous relative lack of self-aggrandizement about all of the routes you have done, perhaps reverting to that level of stoic humbleness would serve this discussion...

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 03:14pm PT

Mt10910...more slogging photos please. Looks like a fun thing to do on a rest day from real climbing, like below.

[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/img004.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/img004.jpg[/img][/url]

The late Pete Speers On Childhood End 5.12- South Platte, CO

[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/261.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/261.jpg[/img][/url]

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Sep 28, 2013 - 03:19pm PT

Joe, there is a safety issue associated with the new surfaces, not that it analogous to retro-bolting slabs. The new surfaces are faster, too fast apparently, so NASCAR cars are fitted with restrictor plates which keep the cars top speed below some limit. But this allows all cars to go more or less the same speed, leading to cars traveling in a pack, bumper to bumper, which causes crashes and gets drivers hurt.

I suppose I should be arguing that by adding retro-bolts to old slab climbs, speed clipping will become very popular, leading to overcrowding on routes and high speed bumping, causes miss-clips and falls of at least 5 1/2 feet and the risk of serious injury.

Ergo, extra bolts are unsafe.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 04:02pm PT

Mt10910...love the slogging shots. Please post more...mountains are a beautiful way to relax after a day of hard climbing. :-)

Be careful out there..that ankle injury looks bad...almost makes me glad I had failing heart surgery. :-)

Another shorts shot for the SeeR.

[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/wendgo.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/wendgo.jpg[/img][/url]

Wendego, 5.12-R Eldo

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 04:48pm PT

No more Bob, Please....

No that easy...you created a monster.

totally grid bolted Shelf Rd...Heavy Weather 5.12b FA

[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/105798724_medium_c2d51b.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/105798724_medium_c2d51b.jpg[/img][/url]

Kinda like the movie Groundhog Day...you are going to wake up every morning and images of me in lycra will be the first things that comes to mind.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 05:41pm PT

JKellEy wrote: Hahaha where did you come up with this BS? Forty new, as in previously unclimbed, grade V and IV routes in the last decade. Not a single bolt on any of them.

How long did it take for you to figure out that placing bolts in snow isn't a very good idea???

This is turning into a lycra/mullet fest. Go Cos, at least I could fill out the lycra, they look baggy on you.

johnkelley

climber

Anchorage Alaska

Sep 28, 2013 - 06:34pm PT

Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
JKellEy wrote: Hahaha where did you come up with this BS? Forty new, as in previously unclimbed, grade V and IV routes in the last decade. Not a single bolt on any of them.

How long did it take for you to figure out that placing bolts isn't a very good idea???

This is turning into a lycra/mullet fest. Go Cos, at least I could fill out the lycra, they look baggy on you.

Yeah Bob you're right. Climbing 60' grid bolted routes at Shelf Road takes way more sac than climbing virgin 9,000' faces in the Saint Elias Range. Ever do a 130 pitch route?

I'm sure routes like Clipping Post require balls to big to fit in my tent.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 06:39pm PT

JKelly wrote:Yeah Bob you're right. Climbing 60' grid bolted routes at Shelf Road takes way more sac than climbing virgin 9,000' faces in the Saint Elias Range. Ever do a 130 pitch route?

wow....130 pitches of snow slogging. Did you ever takes in consideration take bolts wouldn't work very well in snow...hence no bolts.

How would know about Shelf RD?

Mr. I don't sport climb Kelly. Liar and fake.

I want my ticket...now.

Kelly..you been great to mess with...but you lose. Your snow slogs don't impress me, I have a better chance of getting hurt taking my dog hiking.

Or on this route in the the Gunks

johnkelley

climber

Anchorage Alaska

Sep 28, 2013 - 06:44pm PT

"wow....130 pitches of snow slogging. Did you ever takes in consideration take bolts wouldn't work very well in snow...hence no bolts."

Haha and you called me a "dumb ass"?

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 06:51pm PT

JK wrote: wow....130 pitches of snow slogging. Did you ever takes in consideration take bolts wouldn't work very well in snow...hence no bolts."

Haha and you called me a "dumb ass"?

You got me there...wow.

johnkelley

climber

Anchorage Alaska

Sep 28, 2013 - 06:55pm PT

Another grade VI snow slog FA

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 28, 2013 - 06:59pm PT

Looks like an ice over gully where you could but screws in every five feet. Also cool that you have all that aid gear with you, crampons, ice axes, ice screws, aiders, ropes, and so on....nice.

You really are a badass...where is my ticket?