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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Rubidoux Bouldering contest!!!!! I missed out on these deals, cause I was having a different kind of fun.
I recognize Nay Gro....... anybody able to ID any of these folks?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 10:54am PT
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My favorite. Mari always just flowed up the stone, smooth, effortless and with grace.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 21, 2016 - 12:42pm PT
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Annotation for untitled photo
TR on "High Noon" above Gunsmoke
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
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Thanks CF... I added for posterity sake.
In a 1,000 years, historians researching "The reason for the decline of civilization" will find this thread, get the names right and point to Russ and the SheepBuggers as the root cause of it.
Keep posting my brothers
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Friend
climber
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May 21, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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toprope on High Noon is not a bad idea. Kind of do or die at the top.
Any sheep bugger tales of this Idylwild classic? Monster sandbag compared to other B1s in the Fry book.
As for me... well, I tried it for years. Then one January my wife split with another guy. I was full of anger, took it out in finger training and running 6-8 miles a day, and couldn't eat for weeks.
Post holed up to South ridge on Valentines day (!) and climbed this beauty 4x in a row.
Thanks honey.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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Then one January my wife split with another guy. I was full of anger, took it out in finger training and running 6-8 miles a day, and couldn't eat for weeks.
Hahahahah... Good one Friend. I think lots of climbers have used the same motivation in the past.
I have...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 21, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
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Well done "Friend." South Ridge Arete?
Guy, I think I see Pat Brennan in the Guardino shot, But can't ID anyone else.
I was just reading the Galen Rowell Sierra FA thread and found this shot of Four Gables. It shows a pretty good view of an FA that Sibylle and I did in July 1978. The crack system starting just left of the bigger snow field to the right of the main pillar and going just left of the big gray intrusion 1/2 way up is "The Beagle" IV 5.9+ FA DE, SCH 13 pitches
Photo credit: Reilly!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2016 - 01:11pm PT
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Funny, I only did 7th Heaven once, 1977 I think, and it was with none other than the ubiquitous Dave Evans.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 22, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
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Friend, sounds like you could be a friend of mine;)
A de rigueur illicit ascent of Seventh Heaven on the Cohn Property. And sure as the sun rises, those dogs started barking up a storm
Ha! In the 90's i'd swear they sounded like tigers
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 22, 2016 - 05:24pm PT
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Friend
Skip Guerin did the FA of the South Ridge Arete
Mike Paul gave me a guided tour of the area way BITD
and most the info in the book
Mike Paul is the only one I ever saw do the thing, but I'm sure a couple other big names worked up it.
I never spent the time on it to do it.
I'm upgrading it to B1+
I did a covert FS of Seventh Heaven 78ish (after doing it before)
I was on and off the illegal property in 10 minutes
It was totally Zen, I'm pretty sure he talked to me
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 22, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
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Bob, I've got "7th Heaven" on the weekend of Oct.22-23, 1977. Was Randy Vogel there too?
I did my first 5.11 lead that weekend. It was "Jumping Jack Crack!!"
I had followed a few before that including Insomnia (TR), New Generations (Kevin Powell led), Short but Thin, Pterodactyl Terrace R. side, and Valhalla.
"Obscured By Clouds" was my first 5.11 9/74. with Matt Cox and E.
I remember watching Mike Graham on the FA with the clouds drifting through! Hmm...that was in 74 as well. We must have done an early ascent.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
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Yeah, Randy and somebody else did it right in front of us. We four route-poaching thugs walked over there together. I wanted to get off the climb so bad I started running up the second pitch and you had to remind me to put in some pro. Good times! I clearly recall taking note of your ultra-controlled edging technique when you led the first pitch.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 22, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
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it's really soothing hearing these stories:)
When you guy's weren't setting the standards, then you were stabilizing them!
i feel lucky to be so close to the roots of this phenomenon we know as climbing..
i'll never stop listening!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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Don't buy the illusion. We've each hired these PR hacks. They are crafting all of our posts for us. They have to tone it down a lot, because the actual truth is so far-fetched nobody would believe the stories.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 23, 2016 - 10:39am PT
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Geez, Dee ee, at least you could give me credit for my pic! ;-)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 23, 2016 - 10:54am PT
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Oh sorry Reilly! I should have thought of that. I have been reprimanded before for the same egregious act.
My bad.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 23, 2016 - 10:57am PT
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 23, 2016 - 07:02pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
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The little lady gettin' 'er done, Spring '85, with the swank custom Gold Lamé chalkbag. Function meets fashion on the crags over yonder:
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