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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Sep 23, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
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Hard to believe I don't have any photos of Stoney Point. I first went there in 1960 with Paul Gleason. I remember bouldering with (Roy?) Gorin. He commented that my guitar picking was 5.9! HA HA. I explored some of the Santa Susana Pass area while I was a Design Prof. at CSUN (1989) and hauled about 100 bags of trash out of Santa Susana Park where I eventually found some decent boulders and worked out a circuit.
One day I guess I wandered into a restricted area. Some helicopters followed me around for a while. Another memorable day- I was climbing around on Mozart when David Lee Roth showed up (around 1988?) We top roped several variations on the Beethoven and Mozart area. What a character. I was surprised he could actually climb.
Santa Susana Pass was magic in the spring. Turlock!
KL
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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keith i love it when people like you can chime in and share some stories of Stoney point.
hey Stoney pointers check out the new facelift t-shirts. the hat was dedicated to Stoney point! Thanks- to my long time climbing partner/buddy Dwight.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1610997/Facelift-Shirts
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Sep 26, 2011 - 02:18am PT
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Yes! Keith and Gary Cifra took me to Stoney for my first trip of roped climbing. We did Potholes on Turlock and Keith lead the Beehive to which I followed. I rented the worst shoes ever from Sports Chalet but it was an amazing day of climbing. Every time I climb Beehive I think of that day and how those two got me into climbing.....
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Brian More
climber
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
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Sep 26, 2011 - 10:22am PT
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In response to the tri-cam/nut anchor post from O.D.:
The tri-cam is not in camming mode. it's not in any mode... If the tri-cam were in a parallel horizontal crack or pocket with downward pressure (from directly below) it would be in active camming mode. If it were slotted (preferably sideways) in a downward tapering constriction it would be in passive chock mode.
Brian
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 26, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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Brian you got that right.
O.D. if you aren't a Troll bring a coulpe tri cams out on a tuesday or thursday afternoon. With no malice meant there are a few oldfolks out there that will show you how to use them. The one you show in your picture is not the way they should be used & would not hold a fall.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 26, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
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Frumy, Riley, Brian -
No, not a troll, and no malice taken :-) I sensed your comments were made with the best intentions and I appreciate what's been said. I should have known better than to post a grainy cell phone pic to illustrate what was an unusual TriCam placement. I understand, and have used many, many times, TriCams in textbook horizontal placements and textbook vertical placements, and this was neither. You'd have to see what's happening inside the pocket to understand how the camming action was activated in this case -- particularly where and how the pivot point rested with respect to the irregular geometry of the pocket's interior. And, getting the sling to exit the pocket without getting pinched by the cam itself, as well as the expected direction of load (-45 degrees from horizontal) were important factors in this placement. You'll just have to trust me when I say it was a usable placement. I did have some old-style Friends with me, but the shallow placement put too much of a (potential) bending moment on the body of the unit. It was this pocket at Stoney that prompted me to look into a highly flexible-bodied unit like the TotemCam, or any of the modern incarnations of spring-loaded cams for that matter.
Regarding the 'old folks' who frequent Stoney, well...I was putting in pro and putting up routes long before most of you were in diapers. And I was using TriCams back when they were actually Lowe TriCams. I'm on the road most weeks so weeknights at Stoney don't work out for me, but it seems like Frumy is there often enough that we'll inevitably get a chance to meet. Until then, cheers!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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hey are you ready to meet the great Boodawg O.D.?
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:33am PT
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These guys would chew me up and spit out the pieces. True legends. I can only wallow in my mediocrity. I hope my last posting was not interpreted as me saying I've put up routes at Stoney, which is certainly not the case. My routes are on obscure crags -- limestone outcrops mostly, in the Flathead Lake region of Northwestern Montana. Done with malleable pitons, 7/16" goldline rope, and Royal Robbins shoes.
Stoney Point is hallowed ground, and I barely feel worthy to play there.
p.s. I had an interesting encounter with one of Russ McLean's old climbing partners, which is recounted here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/538088/A-Charlie-Porter-Apparition
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sfa
Boulder climber
Los Angeles CA
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anyone know if it's dry enough to climb today?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Assuming it rained yesterday in chatsworth one day is knott enough, several days of hot weather to a week or more if it stays cold and overcast. I'd guess this weekend at the earliest and even then be careful of pulling on flakes. Pure friction problems are good whenever. Miss u stoney + crew. I'll be back soon!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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It's a little to wet. But I saw people heading into boulder so?
Hope to see you soon Matty.
A great Malibu day.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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So who was the bald Jerry/Gerry bigger guy who said he'd been climbing there for thirty years?
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Tattiya
Boulder climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Frumy, Justin and I went anyway on Thursday (10/6), but got rained out after 1.5 hours. But just enough time to finally get 1040. Brad was my witness. Wish you were there!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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Tattiya I didn't think it would be long before that happened -- climb on.
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Bob you know
Trad climber
Woodland hills
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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Happy Birthday Dusty!!!
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Bob you know
Trad climber
Woodland hills
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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Next generation
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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the next generation is looking strong!
way to go!
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Oct 15, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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1k woohoo!
I used to go to Stoney every day after school.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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I would be glad to where their dad's shorts if I could climb like them there young boys.
WITHOUT THE PAIN.
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