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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 20, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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Dugald's Route Right deserves an image of the man:
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 20, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Great shots there Davidson.
The kid at Baxter's Banquet looks an awful lot like me, the age and year look about right too.
Unfortunately I was not born into such esteemed climbing bloodlines.
Elephant Dome, Mendoza Canyon
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 10:33am PT
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Thanks for the history, pk_d!
What? No love for Winslow Wall?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 24, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Jungle Gym Pablo and likely my ass too.
Nice nostalgia shots!
Winslow was dreamy back when only a dozen folks knew about. If you saw something, it would be there waiting next visit. LOL
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Feb 24, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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Paul, Great shots. Thanks for sharing. Are you climbing in a 1" swami? You are burly!
Dugald was amazing athlete, a thinker of breadth and depth, and a fine heart. He and people of his ilk inspire us to be more.
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 24, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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Murry , is that you hucking that large pole? Nice! cheers!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Supposed to be upper 70's this weekend.
Gonna go climb and replace some bolts on The Big Sleep.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Saw a REAL nice waterfall ice formation just above the Dairy Queen in Oak Creek Canyon this morning. It looks bad ass!!! Need to find an interested party. It really passed the looks test today....but it IS Arizona and things change. Any info appreciated from all you old crumbs hanging around this thread or anyone interested in checking it out next Wednesday.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Hopefully some folks climb this old, semi-obscure, wandering KR route.
There was old bail tat all over the place.
The oak that provided the belay at the top of pitch one is dead and loose.
We added one bolt(pictured) at that ledge.
The belay at the top of the second pitch is in an exposed alcove with marginal gear and a missing pin. We added a bolt.
The third pitch starts with an exposed traverse with crap gear(another reason that belay should be safe), and continues to a spinning 1/4 in buttonhead. This was replaced.
It should be noted that my partner was friends, and climbed this route, with KR before his untimely death.
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bob
climber
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RAD Jefe. Nice one.
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Pete Hill
Social climber
cal
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Back in the 80's. Which is far enough back that I don't remember the exact year. A strange piece of metal got plugged into the top of Pinnacle Peak's main summit. At the time there were a bunch of bolts and chains. Plenty of anchors for getting seconds up and rapping back off.
The hunk of metal was marked, as I remember, "Omni directional belay and repel device". This was a pie plate of metal 6 or 8 inches in diameter with holes drilled all the way around the rim, welded to a 1" steel rod that had been drilled into the summit rock.
A friend and I thought this was just an outrage. If outrage can be capitalize, I supposed this was a small o outrage. We decided that this just had to go. So early one morning I went over to my friends house with an expedition pack and we loaded up two gas tanks and all the stuff that a cutting torch requires. As I remember the tanks were big enough that the regulators stuck out the top of the pack and heavy enough to buckle my knees.
As we climbed the pitches up to the top of the peak I distinctly remember a a silence around the vulnerability of the regulators poking out of the top of the pack. As I was the one carrying the pack I was acutely aware, OK later I became acutely aware, that there was no conversation around the fact that a good bump to the top of the pack could have sent me on a rocket ride to the bottom of the peak. Such is the beauty of youth that the important details you only find out later.
It didn't take long to cut off the offending, though probably very convinient repel anchor off the top of the peak.
For year after the "Omni directional repel device" with a bunch of angle pitons was part of the door bell in a local Phx climbing shop. Till the day the shop closed no one ever raise a complaint about the anchor being torched off of the summit of Pinnacle Peak.
The sins of youth.
Pete
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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A world class crag is quickly developing in Arizona as The Waterfall continues to get 5-star new cracks and bolted aretes put up. That place is absolutely amazing and keeps getting better. It's like the forks on steriods. Lots of 30 or 35 meter pitches, hard climbing, and great friction. It also has it's share of bold leads. What will one day be the hardest trad climb in Arizona is there, someone just needs to get it done.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Ah Steve, one can never fool you!
Jungle Gym Pablo and likely my ass too.
Except, that was Haisley. Not sure how we talked him onto that route!
E - I'll have to find some Winslow pics. I don't think they were scanned yet.
Speaking of Haisley and Duggie, from Jim's wedding.
The lovely Jane Bremner (at the time)
Only time I've seen Scotty in a suit!
And Jimmy hisself:
Frank's Wall:
2nd ascent of Mooses Butte:
FA of Pegasus:
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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Too much good stuff:
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Paradise Lost, from the day of the FA:
Reloading....
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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From the FA (Davidson/Fleming) of Magical Mystery Tour at the Overlook.
I think this might have been Flag's first 5.11
(at least on the lead)
This was the last climb John and I did together at the end of a climbing trip circa summer 77 or 78.
ohn then moved off to Albuquerque, where we climbed together a fair bit
for a few years before he left for the Seattle area.
He returned to Flag for one awesome day when we did the Overlook Gridle.
I'll post something downstream.
Phil Gleason's Right Elephant at Elden had been TR'd much earlier and it's at least 5.11.
When led as Red Asphalt in '77, it comes very close to being 5.12, if not 5.12
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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The Grand Master of Flag
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Second or third ascent of Tralfamador at the CWM
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Thanks everyone for getting this to 1000!
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