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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
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Shirley, you're surely surly!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
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The seer sees all.....harken to his words! As for me, it's early morning in Beijing....off to Chengdu and the mountains beyond, thankfully sans internet. I'll be interested to see who's still standing when i return.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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Mucci wrote:Bob-
Good thing those routes didn't have retro-bolts....
You wouldn't be able to say in each caption, of every photo you posted:
Fall here, break yourself.
Would have been less proud no?
I got what I wanted out of them and that is about it.
I never once advocated for retrobolting routes, not my deal, up to FA party and the community.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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Ok Bob seems like you started out in the right direction what happened? Remember that you aren't known as Brave Bob or Bold Bob you're known as Bolting Bob. So what changed?
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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"community". You got like 5 guys saying "yeah, bolt the sh#t outta that stuff". That is an incomplete and microscopic sample of any supposed "community".
So true. Except 5 guys? Looks like only a few with more and more aliases.
Hahaha
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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John wrote: Ok Bob seems like you started out in the right direction what happened? Remember that you aren't known as Brave Bob or Bold Bob you're known as Bolting Bob. So what changed?
You are truly clueless. Sad really that you put so much on something that means so little. Do you have kids, married, have a dog, take care of someone?
I'm sorry that you judge the worth of another human being on the basis of that he/she puts bolts or doesn't. Shallow is the only word that comes to mind for you.
Have you done this route..Splattle...first ascent in 1980 by gutless bob, 5.12a/b r?
[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/bd3.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/bd3.jpg[/img][/url]
sorry to the "SeeR"...are endo pants any better?
John wrote: Remember that you aren't known as Brave Bob or Bold Bob you're known as Bolting Bob. So what changed?
You are like a craze, far right republican...facts mean nothing and everything is emotional.
I'm done, your punches are like getting hit by a butterfly.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Thanks for the pics Bob!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
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Todd...thanks. long time no see...Hope all is well?
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Sep 26, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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There are a handful of real gems in this diverse discussion. Special thanks to those of you who have always held the bar high in respect to tradition, honor and adventure.
"People had been working for so many years to make the world a safe, organized place. Nobody realized how boring it would become. With the whole world property-lined and speed-limited and zoned and taxed and recorded. Nobody had left much room for adventure, except maybe the kind you could buy. On a roller coaster, at a movie. Still, it would always be that kind of faux excitement. You know the dinosaurs aren't going to eat the kids. The test audiences have outvoted any chance of even a faux disaster. And because there's no possibility of real disaster, real risk, we're left with no chance for real salvation. Real elation. Real excitement. Joy. Discovery. Invention.
The laws that keep us safe, these same law condemn us to boredom."
from: Choke by Chuck Palahnuik
Long live adventure,
Albert
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Sep 26, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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Nice photos, Bob. Yes, we had some enjoyable sessions back then. The shot looking down as you stemmed between two building walls was taken on the Biology building at Colorado State @ Pueblo. I recall you wore unmatched shoes for that - one for friction, one for edging . . . I had done the problem dynamically, but couldn't do that amazing stem. Good to hear you are doing well!
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 27, 2013 - 09:01am PT
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Nice smackdown Bob. I know your scene cuz I've spent time climbing around Taos.
Small minds can't comprehend Sac and sport climbing both being a part of the experience.
Skinner did the longest, bravest mountain ascents at the time, then returned to Lander to clip bolts.
I saw him one year at Hueco, just after returning from Nameless Tower. He was on what was to be the first v10 in America 'New Map to Hell"; he said 'it's good to be doing some real climbing.'
In any case, looks like Sac isn't dead, in case anyone is still unconvinced:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Largo lookin ripped!
I could watch this baby-faced garden gnome run it out all day:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 27, 2013 - 09:55am PT
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it is your fault
Au contraire, it's your fault! A seamless tradition for seventy-plus years won't be torn asunder with your piddly rift... (riff?)
Modern climbers are much better than that.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 27, 2013 - 11:08am PT
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Thanks Patrick and Hazel is a cutie...got the body of female Johnny Dawes. She made it look 5.8.
Most of the climbers I grew up with were open minded, smart and choose a different lifestyle than the norm...we accepted diversity, we didn't condemn it.
Not to be an ass but...to John Long...what have you done for climbing lately...say the past 20 years, other than write books and make money off it?
New routes, trail work, bolt replacements, being a mentor?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 27, 2013 - 11:20am PT
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Randisi...body type, not face. :-)
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 27, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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This what climbing is all about...My climbing partner of 30 years Richard Aschert in the "Black" climbing Astro Dog 5.11d R V.
He is a cancer survivor and the only other person to put up with me for that long other than my wife. I think we were the oldest team to climb it until Donini did it with someone. :-)
This was post chemo...pretty amazing. He cruised every pitch.
[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/astrodog2.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/astrodog2.jpg[/img][/url]
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 27, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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So what happened at Shelf Road Bob? You know the place where you went ape sh#t with your power drill putting us climbers on red alert with land mangers and ushering in the way for gov't regulation. I just want to know the motives behind it.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 27, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
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John Kelly: So what happened at Shelf Road Bob? You know the place where you went ape sh#t with your power drill putting us climbers on red alert with land mangers and ushering in the way for gov't regulation. I just want to know the motives behind it.
Gloves off...You are really a dumb sh#t. How do you feed and dress yourself in the morning?
Shelf Rd and the San Luis Valley were/are great examples of climbers and land managers working together to create a climber friendly area. Maybe the first areas in the country to do so. We involved the BLM from the beginning and the relationship continues to this day.
Oh, in 1992 I was the Colorado BLM State Volunteer Of The Year and national finalist for the work I did in the San Luis Valley.
We just did two anchor replacement and trail work in the SLV with the BLM in the last two years that I organized. Up dating gear/bolts, working on trail and other tasks that the BLM doesn't have resources for.
We are doing one at Shelf Rd this November with the American Alpine Club that I organized.
The BLM hates me, you are so right. That is why they call me on climber related issues.
Dude...you have to be one of the most mis-informed wankers on this site.
Your hate for me just makes you look like a complete as#@&%e.
If this was baseball your batting average would be zero.
Keep it up.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 27, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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"Shelf Rd and the San Luis Valley were/are great examples of climbers and land managers working together to create a climber friendly area. Maybe the first areas in the country to do so. We involved the BLM from the beginning and the relationship continues to this day."
They were "maybe" the first areas that needed it. Might of had something to due with the thousands of bolts that showed up seemingly overnight? It's not that I "hate" you Bolting Bob it's that I'm interested in the motives behind it.
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