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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 13, 2019 - 06:18pm PT
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Takin’ beta from Tom Gibson for the mid-stretch before starting up, then all quiet while I enjoyed the moves – and after that, more beta from BVB for the heel hook and pinch over the lip. It was all there, but as BVB observed then and remarked just a couple-three years ago, I had nothing in me, really, climbing on 100% technique. And you get the distinct feeling if you come off during those exit moves, it's a back breaking affair.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 13, 2019 - 06:21pm PT
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Tom Gibson on our warm-up crack, Razors Edge:
I think you got the better angle on this one, Doug:
On this trip I really got a handle on Bob's phrasing of "Premium Miniatures."
A lot of this stuff at Woodson doesn't look so big from below, then by the time you top out, especially if the ground slopes away and it often does, you just don't want to be coming off!
My arms were totally blown heading into this day, and for the whole week prior. We even got DMSO and veterinary grade glucosamine at a tack shop in Delmar a couple days before. Lisa had to drive me to the event, and I had searing arm pain starting up on razors edge. Luckily, I warmed up and made it through the day.
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Friend
climber
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Jan 13, 2019 - 06:48pm PT
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Great reminiscence Roy. This thread is awesome.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 13, 2019 - 06:58pm PT
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Yeah, thanks Friend: a day worth remembering!
Bob and I shared two really good days bouldering in that decade. The first at the Stonemaster reunion of 2006, in Josh, and this one.
Unforgettable – like magic! I'm not digging at all that Bob is absent for the rest of the tour but this is how life goes.
We all really wanted to see Ray Olson at this Woodson event. He had his own brew of musculoskeletal issues going.
Here's Ray bouldering circa mid 90s at Flagstaff Mountain, in Boulder:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 14, 2019 - 10:36am PT
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Bat Flake
One of the burliest climbs we did that day was Bat Flake. In classic top rope mode, we had quite the congregation of disciples at the base. I watched Greg Epperson take a bit of time with his tape job. He was in no particular hurry, and by the time he was finished, he almost had boxing gloves on!
Now, BITD, we might have razzed him for this. But Greg is an old hand, so to speak, and it was clear to me that his diligence in taping indicated something about the climb, of which I knew little. And I heeded even less, just going with my thin intersection of two strands of one-inch tape, with a single layer underneath it, nothing more than a small square of one-inch tape.
I started up it as though walking on egg shells, saving as much energy as possible. I guess it's about 5.9+ in the first 20 feet. Then it gets into an engaging and kind of brutal, right-leaning cupped hands/fist crack. I always liked that kind of thing, so I was feeling pretty solid. IIRC, you have to dig pretty deep for the jams?
But the last move is the crux. Again, BVB assisted with some beta: Roy you need to dyno for the top of the flake from fist jams! I just couldn't see that happening. I don't think I had ever thrown a dynamic move from deep jams, and said jams were almost held from an undercling position. And I didn't have the gas to gamble such a move, either. So I sucked in really tight, and going for the conservative finish, reached up and carefully latched the top, outstretched in a controlled static move. It was a fulfilling and happy moment for me! I can still remember the feeling now. Everything I did that day was an on-sight flash. When you're running on fumes, that's how it has to be, no?
And yeah, Epperson had the right idea. The crack took some skin off the backs of my hands, ha ha. Of course it's worth noting that Greg Cameron soloed Bat Flake that day!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 14, 2019 - 11:33am PT
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Yeah, talk about a Premium Miniature, I miss Ray and was sorry he didn't show up at least to engage in a little gab and slander session. I recall how many issues you had that day Roy, you climbed remarkably well.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Jan 14, 2019 - 04:03pm PT
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^^^ eric sporting signs of mother superior in shorts.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 14, 2019 - 04:08pm PT
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I'm still tickled pink that you made those red bandannas, Mike!
Still have mine, in pristine condition, not used since that day in 2007:
 And look at Doug White go: pulling out photographs we hadn't even seen until now. You da man!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 15, 2019 - 09:42am PT
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 15, 2019 - 10:52am PT
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Jim, Tucker and Ron
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 15, 2019 - 10:53am PT
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Jack and the Woodson T-shirt
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 15, 2019 - 11:08am PT
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That shirt was pretty awesome.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 22, 2019 - 11:54am PT
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Some interesting collateral history on Mt. Woodson, or rather its slopes:
In the 1960s boxer Archie Moore held a training camp called "Salt Mine" which trained George Foreman and Muhammad Ali. Moore fought from 1936 until 1963 and battled the top names in boxing at the time, including Rocky Marciano, Floyd Patterson and Muhammad Ali. He won 185 of his 219 bouts before retiring at 49 years old after losing to Ali. Moore’s connection to San Diego was his retreat, the Salt Mine Training Camp in Ramona. He called it “Salt Mine” because he said he worked as hard there to get ready for fights as anyone did in a salt mine. The property, at the foot of Mt. Woodson, included 120 acres with five homes, a boxing ring, a sweatbox (steam room) and miles of winding country roads and trails that Moore used for road work. Moore often encountered rattlesnakes and even mountain lions on his runs. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramona,_California
...
Again, to pick up the trail of photographs from this 2007 Mt. Woodson reunion, go here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=354278&msg=369581#msg369581
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Jed Andersen
Social climber
Descanso
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Jan 29, 2019 - 07:59pm PT
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Archie Moore was my boxing coach when I was a kid. I even skateboarded in his boxing glove shaped pool.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2019 - 08:13pm PT
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Boxing glove shaped pool. Good one!
I figured someone would have the goods on that place.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2019 - 08:27pm PT
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Of course the most fun and the most interesting photographs from these gatherings aren't the climbs & the climbers on them.
It's the mugshots!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 30, 2019 - 10:49am PT
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Good times!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2019 - 12:10pm PT
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+ 10!
Ranks right up there as one of the best days of my life.
The old dad reunions might even be sweeter than all of that climbing we all did together BITD during our youth – kind of like tying a ribbon on it all, no?
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johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
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Jan 30, 2019 - 05:21pm PT
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he old dad reunions might even be sweeter than all of that climbing we all did together BITD during our youth – kind of like tying a ribbon on it all, no?
I was a weekend warrior and never got really good. What is cherished most are the people the times were spent with.
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