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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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Dave K...I'm not much of tec weenie but sure know how to use a bosch.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Sep 26, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
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. . . and would demean those who authored run out routes as not being sufficiently risky doods (JL)
I poke fun at JL, but he was, along with his Yosemite friends, one of the top rock climbers of his day. And as a world-class writer, his commentaries on this and other threads are wonderfully crafted to either put us in stitches or boil the blood. Keep it up, Big Guy.
Keep in mind that some of those run-outs were done in pre-sticky rubber days. Before John appeared on the scene Yvon and others were climbing slabs in Zillertals, a "feat" only those of that era can truly appreciate.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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SeeR wrote: Rap Bolting Bob, is an unknown to the SeeR, rather defensive sort...I'd say, maybe covering a secret love of the sack, hear tale he's the real deal... however.
Married 38 years to the same woman, don't play that side of court. :-)
Bolting Bob on the FFA of Horribly Henious 5.12r/x styling in the early 80's. Clipping 2 in wafer pins in soft sandstone...god I wish I could have used my ice tools on this one.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Bolting Bob freeing another soft sandstone classic 5.12 in the GOGS.
I wish I could have dry tooled this one...I would be a better man for it.
No leg loops on...could it be my sac is too....
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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SeeR wrote:Well Bolting Bob, you certainly wear the pants of the sac friendly, maybe this marriage thing is an afront.
Good one...:-)
It was the 80's...
Sacless Bolting Bob on the early (5th) ascent of Fire and Ice 5.12a/b R in Eldo...
Just above the old 1/4 bolt that used to be half way out...it pulls, you are going to ground.
I miss those pants...:-)
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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Sacless/gutless bolting bob on the 2 ascent of the Tomorrow is Today 5.12b r, blow this clip and you are talus food.
Boy I wish it was ice so I could just hang off my tools.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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Bolting bob on sighting the FA of the beautiful Book of Brilliant Things 5.12a/b wishing he had crampons and ice axes like those big sack mountain climbing.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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Bolting dumb ass bob (also headless) climbing Generation Gap 5.11a/b (Gunks) back in 1976 or 77 looking at a leg breaking fall wearing eb's and swami.
Great name as there was/always has been a "gap" but back then we showed respect to the likes of Jim McCarthy who first did the route on aid.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 26, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
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But then came the power drill... And Bolting Bob was reborn
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
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Weak sauce Kelly...you have to do better than that.
Cause I sit on "the Throne"...5.12b Gunks, early 80's
Dingus got it right on page one...Respect for each others. To get it you have to give...something lost on a few on this site.
Speaking of Jim Mccarthy...there was round table discussion back in 2008 at a reunion for "old" Gunks climbers...Jim was asked what he thought of the new breed (bolts/sport climbers) and his answer was...they are great, doing great things...respect. It wasn't the answer the guy wanted but Jim is a class act.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Sep 26, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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This slugfest has been going on for 15 days!
Does anyone want to call it a draw?
How about appointing a referee to score the fight? At 1600 post+, I will only agree to serve as referee for my normal hourly fee BITD as a lawyer.
This should be decided by a lawyer. After all, the thread is entitled "the 'law' of the first ascent."
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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It's like the "rumble in the jungle". :-)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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Bob-
Good thing those routes didn't have retro-bolts....
You wouldn't be able to say in each caption, of every photo you posted:
Fall here, break yourself.
Would have been less proud no?
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