Woodson - 2011

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henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 11:17am PT
Hey,

Does anyone checking in on this thread know how to get ahold of Rick Piggot? We have a question for him regarding the FA of one of the major lines at Woodson and getting an answer straight from the horse's mouth (so to speak) would be preferable.

If someone has an email address or phone number that Rick is willing to pass along, please PM it to my Supertopo account email.

Thanks
henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 11:55am PT
I don't know Ron, as much trouble as I've been having naming anything recently, "that little boulder to the right of the big boulder thats behind the pointy boulder on the left side of the trail" sounds like a pretty darn good name to me.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
New TR problem to the left of The Vision. Night Vision - obvious line moving a little left from the small shelf. Thin edging/pimping. Quite good, well worth checking out.

Speaking of the Vision, there's a hard one. Anyone else done it or tried it? That was a good score by Johnny.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
I flew back in town on the 8th, as promised, and had to take the habitual lap up the mountain before heading east for the second time. Marcelle met up with me to enjoy a perfect, cool, afternoon, beginning at the Baby Robbins boulder. After a few laps on the aforementioned, and setting a TR on Jaws, we dropped down to Blasted Rock #2 to further our warm up. Joe and Geneva intersected with us here shortly thereafter. We all headed back up to Baby Robbins where Joe had his eyes on prying open Jaws. Everyone did well, whether they succeeded or not. We headed down to Girls Climb and did the same. The temps were perfect! Time was of the essence for some, so Marcelle and I headed up to California Night to get some more. That thing never gets any easier! As we emerged back to the road, from the slightly overgrown trail, we ran in to Henny and Doug were we enjoyed great conversation and camaraderie on the ritual walk down the mountain. Woodson is awesome in that respect.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
Some photos from my road trip back across the country:







henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
Doug
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
Thanks
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:24am PT
Henny, is night vision yours? I belayed john weinberg on the vision when he tried for the repeat shortly after he put it up. He had to hang a couple times but he cranked all the moves, and it was really impressive. The crux is like 6 hard thin moves stacked on top of each other, powerful leg extensions on teeny holds.

A few of the young guns have gotten on it, but i havent heard of anybody sending the repeat yet. Its a plum for sure.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:30am PT
Oh and henny, feel free to use that name - I had been saving it, but theres not that many pointy boulders on woodson
henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
Ron - yes. Was the origin of the name Night Vision yours? Doug and I were wondering where the name came from. I think we may have picked it up from talking to Johnny. Did Johnny get it from you? Anyway, it's had that working name since we first knew about it, and since it seemed like a good name (given the Vision) I decided it was worth keeping. If it's yours and you want to save the name, I do have another Vision derivative name I can use...

I find the Vision to be very hard, haven't done it yet. It's that one sequence of a few moves to the first black diorite knob. Johnny said he was real extended to reach it and he has at least a couple of inches reach on me. Johnny is also quite good at more pure smearing stuff like that crux sequence. It's hard and I'm just whining about it. I don't know of any repeats yet either.

The problem left of the Vision is different, micro edging vs. smearing. Good problem. Two good, somewhat different, hard TRs right next to each other on good rock. Nice.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 31, 2011 - 01:08am PT
I think you need to climb it before you name it. The Vision was an exception because of the spiritual experience I had while standing on top of it, but that was just what I called it. I made it clear to John that I expected him to name his creation, but he liked "The Vision", so he kept it (its a pretty good name) only now it signifies HIS vision.

Night Vision didnt come from me. As you know, naming rights always go to the FA party, so the route is whatever you want to call it. Nice job on the send, henny. The third wave of development at woodson is in full swing and growing stronger. Its great to see.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 31, 2011 - 01:20am PT
New Woodson 2012 thread in 10...9...8...7...
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 31, 2011 - 01:37am PT
I took Greg down to "Rough Boys" last monday. There used to be a left and right variation, but a flake that was the main hold for the right problem broke, and it will be way harder if it even goes. The left was the best of the 2 anyway, and Greg sent it after a couple tries. He also put up an unusual and off the deck traversing problem that he called "committment ring". Greg also showed me a bunch of new problems he did in the new area, down from the mantle pill. Good stuff.Greg on "rough boys"The airy "committment ring".
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 5, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
bump
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 20, 2013 - 06:51am PT
stuck up late puking all night... been falling so in love with Woodson lately, just quietely mostly by myself mostly pad-less on cruzer fun cracks (I hate carrying sh*t...). So cool to see all the history and learn what this area means to so many bad ass climbers.

Oh well back to dry heaving over a toilet. Can't wait to throw some TR's on a lot of these routes I hadn't seen or heard of in my few wanderings. Awesome.
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
May 1, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
https://youtu.be/jzN3yJXlWrg
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