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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
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even liebacking against a vertical edge with my feet early on.
exactly. i use the same edge to get a lieback out of the worse jams. it's on the right hand side of the crack.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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Yeap, exactly. I then backstep with the left foot on a small edge that is close to the crack (left of the crack.) Pretty much the only reasonable hold in the area. If you can push that out a little you're into the better locks and it's more like pure crack from there.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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it sounds like we independently developed nearly identical beta. i do the same backstep with my left foot. then i go big for a thumbs-down two-fingertip lock with my left hand, first jam above the shallow groove.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
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I've gone with both left/right in the next lock. It must not be so critical anymore. if I go left I bet I do the whole bottom pretty much exactly like you. using the right makes you do a long right cross over higher though.
Funny. I wonder how many other ways there are to do it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
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Funny. I wonder how many other ways there are to do it.
yeah -- some of the other folks who've done lie detector should chime in!
oh, wait....
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 29, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
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I've done it. Small stoppers and aiders and it goes really easy. As far as starving in stereo goes, I had that thing wired.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 29, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
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Well, it sounds like we'll all need to assemble at "Lie Detector" and see if the thing lives up to its name.
Curt
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:12pm PT
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yeah -- some of the other folks who've done lie detector should chime in!
oh, wait....
ya got me.
i don't even know which one it is.
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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I heard it got it's name because a couple of climbers were claiming the F.A. so they met up and the lie detector proved one of the right. I think it's one of the hardest short cracks anywhere.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
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yeah -- some of the other folks who've done lie detector should chime in!
oh, wait....
My special beta was to just lower down on a top rope and climb the upper finger crack...
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:33pm PT
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Hey Kerwin,
I last bouldered at Woodson in 85, so I'll be lucky to just find the mountain.
Curt
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:39pm PT
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i bouldered at woodson maybe three times in 15 years in socal.
twice cuz i was in sd for something else, and a 3rd time 'cuz i had to go back for ms.
but that's one time more than i bouldered at rubidoux.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
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asdf -- i bet lie detector saw more ascents between 1983 - 1990 than it's seen since.
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 29, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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BVB, I believe your right about that.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
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When's the last time you were able to photo the entire line of IHMT?
Razor's Edge is clear now and the fat layback/crack, 5.9 on Sunday Afternoon Boulder is also clear.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 29, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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Good work on the clean up Gary!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2010 - 12:06am PT
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forgot all about this. from 25 years ago. when i first did lie detector i drew a move topo for it in my woodson notebook, including how many tries it took me.
ah, the obsession of youth. maybe i'll recapture it someday.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2010 - 12:34am PT
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i guess starving in stereo gave me some trouble.
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 30, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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Heres the project i call "the vision"
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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Those notes impress me evertime I see them!
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