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#1SuperMama
Social climber
Oakdale, Ca
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Jul 15, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
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Never! She prefers specialty hard cider that's imported and actually, both prefer Sierra Nevada Torpedo. Just difficult to manage glass bottles on the wall!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 16, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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Sez who? I would never climb El Cap without two or three bottles of fine California wine. I have never had any break yet, either.
Where and how are they? This is truly an historic moment. When do we get the juicy news?? I'm away fishin' with my son again this weekend.
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 16, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
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I know wish Ansel Evans was around to document this!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 16, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
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A BIG congratulations to the first and second ascent teams!
Peace
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 16, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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Well, I guess now we know why Pete pressed so hard for details of the climb. Sycophants write press releases, but its not journalism.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 16, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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Possible that what Pete wrote was edited or added to.
Anyway, the last Harry Potter movie opens this weekend, so there are undoubtedly dementors in the air, and other strange creatures abroad.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Jul 17, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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It's possible that Pete may have jumped the gun by publishing this before the second ascent team returns and offers their first hand observations, but he seems to have done to have a good job of summarizing the essential known facts of both the route and the controversy surrounding it.
He is one of the few people actually qualified to have an opinion about it, being one of the very, very people to actually put hook to stone and see firsthand what all the fuss was about.
Six years before the FA, I spent a number of days gazing across and down the Great Slab from the Dihedral Wall. As steep and featureless as it looked , it seemed that it was only a matter of time before someone with the right combination of skill and perseverance would attempt to climb such a unique and prominent feature of El Cap.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 17, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
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My point is that Pete is a partisan in this mess on ST, his report is as slanted towards his perspective as Mimi's would be if she wrote the press release for R&I. It would be better is someone without an entrenched position wrote the report (there are a number of possibilities online here) or better yet if it waited and Ammon wrote his own story. This was sort of like having Paul Wolfowitz writing about our achievements in Iraq.
Everyone is entitled to an opinion, but partisan entertainers passing themselves off as journalists have really eroded people's understanding of what reporting and journalism really are.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 17, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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As a devoted partisan I agree - it would have been better to just wait for Ammon and Kait's TR...
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jul 17, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
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Yeah that press statement might be a bit premature. They've been scooped, so it shouldn't be a surprise.
Are we sure there will be a significant TR, much beyond what we've gleaned third hand? Pretty sure I'm not the only one who hopes so.
What's Ammon and Kate's status anyways? Are they done w/ Aquarian? Back in the horizontal world??
Mega congrats to them regardless.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 17, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
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So we can talk about WoS ad nauseum here, but posting info on other sites is off limits. I just gotta make sure I know the rules.
So what if Pete is excited, he is excitable, I think his report was fair and balanced. Way more so than Fox news...
Prod.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 17, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
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whatever your own perspective on the issue, and whatever you may think of WoS or of R&I or of Pedro-
the real point is that R&I have made complete fools of themselves by having PTHP write a "press release" for them on this topic.
1) no secret he is these guys' greatest advocate
2) no secret (at least in past ST threads on WoS) that their collective shared religious beliefs are a big part of that
3) no secret that the actual climbers can tell their own tale soon enough
i personally find it kinda ironic that pedro has had so much flack online (for likin him some little girls and for bein overtly smarmy about it- at best), and then apparently he found some god, and then he simply refused to confirm or deny anything specific, and then he just out-typed everyone and out-waited everyone, until people apparently just got bored silly of talking about it, and just moved on.
in a way, the WoS thing is the same.
people from the era of the FA have generally moved on.
now the discussion online involves a new generation who just "have heard" this or that about whatever did or did not happen, and why or why not.
as for pete's "press release"-
it's at best "quite tilted" to what his views have long been.
didn't he say kevin thaw's group was repelled by difficulty?
(didn't i see up thread that they were repelled after like 5 pitches, in an attempt to do the rig in a day ?)
whatever.
history belongs to those who write it.
probably never be a 3rd ascent, regardless of what ammon and kait write after the 2nd.
fo me, that's as much the story as anything else.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 17, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
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I thought the bit about Slater and Thaw in that release was a bit disingenuous, as those guys were trying to repeat it in a day? Or at the very least less than 40 days? I lost track of some of the 'facts' in the WoS saga, but didn't those guys get like 5 pitches up this 8 pitch route in one day?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 17, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
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i think he simply forgot to write:
"few if any climbers from any era seem to be all that enthused by the line itself, or the type of climbing dictated by the blank low angle terrain, and as a result, an absence of real data of any kind has left people arguing over unknowns for decades. the few parties who've started the climb have not completed it, perhaps due to difficulty, perhaps due to a loss of interest, it's hard to say without them telling..."
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Tarz
Mountain climber
Calli
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Jul 17, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
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Quite simply the "story" was Ammon's and Kait's to tell and release. Letting the climbing world know that WOS had been repeated could have waited a few days until K & A got back to level ground. Etiquette would seem to have dictated that. But it is what it is..... Kait and Ammon should be down Monday or Tuesday. Knowing the two of them quite well I am sure a very detailed TR will be in the works. They are both exhausted and I am sure will need some recoup time after the climb. I, for one, am quite proud of them and congratulate them wholeheartedly!
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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Jul 17, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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Been waiting for the days when climbing came with cheerleaders...
wait no longer!
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Jul 17, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
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Agree with alot of what Pete wrote, agree with what Tarz says should have been added, and then there are the recondite issues...
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Jul 17, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 17, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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...people from the era of the FA have generally moved on...
Well, I'd say the threads here call bullshit on that one. I'd also say the boys deserve a long overdue objective opinion and I'd say they are about to get one...
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#1SuperMama
Social climber
Oakdale, Ca
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Jul 17, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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Thank you Rudder for your diagram!
It's ethical and legit.
As some of you have said and as I responded a week ago to an email from Pete -
The story is for Ammon and Kait to share. They lived it, and 29 years ago the FA's made it.
So, only those 4 who have successfully climbed WoS have a right to report on it.
And you know what - sometimes cheerleaders are needed in this world. And, honestly, I can't believe I just wrote that! Only those who know me will understand my sentiments. ; )
I would love to write more tidbits for you all from my two turtles, but feel less than safe doing so now. Talk about the paparazzi! Who'd have thunk that the climbing world has their share too?
Ciao from the #1Mama
It's been real!
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