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allapah
climber
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Sep 26, 2013 - 02:44am PT
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sir apple jabbers, do i detect a tinge of troll sarcasm in "we rejoiced at the addition of traditional american bolts" at CrapFruit Classic? (10d, M7)
and will all these climbs get new names after their characters have been altered?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 26, 2013 - 04:05am PT
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Must be past Hedge's bed time?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 26, 2013 - 04:13am PT
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BVB wrote:
Sparkle Ponies demand mo' bedda bolts!
How do I keep missing these?!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 26, 2013 - 04:23am PT
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Do your Velcro gloves work on those too? Just say no to retrobolts!
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 26, 2013 - 07:47am PT
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Wow, this thread sure went pear-shaped.
THC and a Paleo diet is the answer kids, not alcohol and painkillers.
modern sac-less ascent:
You can smell the vag of this generation from your computer huh SeeR?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 26, 2013 - 11:20am PT
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I'm sure the climber is bouldering at two grades or so, below his or her ability
V13 isn't significantly below anyone's ability.
Climbers now have as much Sac as ever, and with modern training, they can push the Sac to high levels of Sacness. We went over this on page 2.
They just aren't interested in what constituted Sac in 1973.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 26, 2013 - 11:28am PT
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Sep 26, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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That "highball" is V9 at the bottom overhanging section only. The top part was TR'd extensively and is much easier. Probably V3/4 slab up high. That does fit the bill of running it out way below your ability (like 8 V grades as K.J was climbing V12's) and knowing the moves from rehersal. Not anything close to ground up onsite. K.J. is a real bad-ass though.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 26, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
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Yep, my mistake on the Vgrade.
Does it really need to explained why the above problem is more appealing to this generation than a 5.11 slab with a 40 year old bolt or two?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 26, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
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THE ROCK dictates the level of Sac, not an individual agenda.
NO bolts at all. Big difference.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 26, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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Are you still drunk from last night? Or do you wake and bake?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 26, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Talk about schizophrenia. This is appealing but runouts aren't?
Seems like this generation of thrill seekers would seek out the runouts. Your probably more likely to get injured highballing than doing runouts, no matter how many pads or spotters you have.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 26, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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The nameless just got my STopo handle two days ago schtick is pretty funny too.
Carry on, oh great SeeR!
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Sep 26, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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p. compton please do not misrepresent this generation with your generalizations.
I for one respect bachar yerian and this side of paradise as well as any discipline of climbing where one is confident enough in their abilities to risk themselves on the sharp end. but haters gonna hate.
John Long thanks for being an inspiration to me with your stories of the stonemasters and providing a great history of climbing in california.
and to all involved sorry to interupt please continue with the sac vs vag topic.
-B. McIntosh
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 26, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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I also respect JL for his decades of contributions to the sport and routes like the BY, and I said this throughout the thread.
Why am I generalizing when I say these run out slabs are often unrepeated and are not aspired to? That is a fact, established even on this thread.
I post these photos to point out that this generation DOES have Sac, just not as defined in 1973.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 26, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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I thought this thread started out as a troll. If one keeps that perspective, this thread provides a great deal of entertainment. With that in mind, I found it hard to take too much of this thread seriously enough to get worked up.
It also contains comments from some very important people in climbing history, though. Maybe because I hold their climbing actions in such high regard, it disappoints me to see personal attacks on John Long, Joe Hedge, Bob D'Antonio, John Gill, or so many others who deserve more respect. Maybe Tom Higgins can teach us something still, since no one has yet torn into him here, as far as I remember.
While I can't take the sac/vag talk as anything but humor, it does bother me, as I stated earlier, and as Dave Kos stated recently, to equate bravery in situations not undertaken for fun with boldness in something we do for fun. Although I was 1A in 1969, the government never drafted me until I was lucky enough to end up with a high draft number. I cannot equate what the armed forces in combat do with what we do as climbers, no matter how bold.
End of seriousness. Back to entertainment.
John
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 26, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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So who are you?
(who, who, who who...)
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 26, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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seer
Mountain climber
Squamish
Sep 26, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Joe Hedge has no place on that list, he was at best a scared climber of average ability in his day.
Vagahedgeus is not a world class climber, but when he is, it's here on Super Topo.
The SeeR
Neither does Bolting Bob
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 26, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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Dumb as dirt, chops bolts in the night and a inbred from the hills of North Carolina to boot. Seems to be the norm for that area.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Sep 26, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
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I don't mind personal attacks on this silly thread. That's what its for, kind of. A roast. All fun in my book.
Anyhow, I read this with interest:
"Does it really need to explained why the above problem is more appealing to this generation than a 5.11 slab with a 40 year old bolt or two?"
Of course, we were highballing 40 years ago as well, not just tinkering on slabs. One of the very sketchy practices that went on for a while was to see how hard and how high we could go in tennis shoes. Not the brightest idea, but high times. Like the pic below, on So High, V6, out at Josh, in vollyball shoes. The face moves up at about the 30 foot level were sketch and required a modicum of sac, or stupidity.
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