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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 26, 2011 - 12:40am PT
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This spring I am gonna drag Ronbo's ass up Valhalla. He does not know it yet, but it's gonna happen, even if he has to jug to follow. Look out world, I AM BACK.
Oh sh#t..it it too late to delete this!?
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Nov 26, 2011 - 03:33am PT
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 26, 2011 - 03:42am PT
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I ticked valhalla 30 years ago bub. Come to think of it that could be more bad than good....
Ok, when you blow off the move onto the ledge, Ill take the lead. If you get into shape for that thing you KNOW Im gonna be climbing 11D. Cant break the "ron is god o bob" tradition, now 35 years running.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 26, 2011 - 03:43am PT
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looks like saturday before last, Greg
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Nov 27, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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Only ranger I've ever seen up their.
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Nov 27, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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Ron,are you copyrighting this sh*t?, 'cause I'm gonna frame some excerpts to hang over the MANTLE!
BH
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 28, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
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B hayniss, nah these philosophical musings are my contribution to society. Nice, huh? yoo betcha
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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You back up on the hill yet Darrell?
P.S. Brad, you still alive? We didn't see you for a good while. Hope everything is okay.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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I've been a couple of times. Managed to at least be able to find the place still (unlike some locals - yeah, you know who you are so I won't name any names - who somehow took a wrong turn or two and ended up on the east side instead).
Work is really busy right now. Didn't have time to do much of anything, and haven't had a chance to go back again.
Different subject - this thread is starting to run on borrowed time. "Woodson - 2011" isn't going to make sense for much longer. Looking at the OP I started the thread on the 29th of December. What should we do, start a 2012 thread about the same day this month, or leave this thread with a 2011 title? I say start a "Woodson - 2012" thread. It's nice to have a thread dedicated to Woodson, whatever we end up doing.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Let's start a Woodson 2012 Thread on 1/1/12. I'll have some pics to post and slander to sling by then. Projecting Robbin's Crack? HELL Yeah!
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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I like the new year, new thread idea.
And while I'm at it, I've got a question for you Henny (or anyone else in the know). How far left does one traverse to get to Exit Stage Left? I got on Kurtains the other day (which is REALLY good, as in better-than-Uncertainty good), and I got to looking at the neglected left side of the face. There didn't really seem to be an obvious line to follow, but then again, I wasn't looking too hard. Is there an obvious feature to aim for on the traverse? Or do you just stay left Kurtains and hope for the best?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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I always liked Kurtains much better than Uncertainty, so I'm certainly with you on that one.
What I remember about Exit Stage Left is that the traverse is done fairly low (as in hands might be on what would possibly be feet for Kurtains.) Once you've traversed out I'm pretty sure there is a small circular hole/edge that plays prominently into the sequence. You may traverse to it, or it may be a traverse until right under it, that I don't recall clearly. I think once you've traversed it's reasonably obvious where you need to start going up. I want to say after the traverse the moves may be slightly back right, then straight up, then tend left to gain the arete at about 3/4 height. That may be a good starting reference, draw a line down from around 3/4 of the way up the arete, knowing you make a few moves left at the end to gain it. That and try to locate the circular hole/edge by the end of the traverse. There is no way you're close enough to Kurtains for there to be a possibility of using anything on it.
Get on it, it's way, way good. I thought it was definately the hardest of the three, and also the best (just IMO). It's kind of cool because it does look sort of improbable from the ground. Bedford definately picked a plum with that one.
Sheesh, I don't even want to think about how long it's been since I last did it. I'd love to do that thing with you guys when I'm down again, if you haven't already done it. The last time I did it the weather was miserably windy and cold. I was out of my mind trying to get to the arete with frozen solid fingers. Fortunately they had frozen in the hook position. I was desperate trying to hook some sloping holds to the arete, not being able to feel a frickin' thing, and not being able to modify the shape of the hooks anymore. (actually, that's another thing that makes it the best of the three, it's also the most continuous.)
Edit: It is funny, Uncertainty gets raves and it's the least good of the three.
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Ok, I think I got on Exit Stage Left today. I traversed the same as for Kurtains, but kept going left to the obvious hole. Traversing any lower than I did looked way desperate. After that, I went straight up, slightly right, then slightly back left. I did, however, get pretty close to Kurtains (maybe within two feet) before trending back left. Not sure if I was on route. My tips were too thrashed to give it a good red-point burn, but it felt a little easier than Kurtains (though I'm sure the sloping crimps at the end feel a lot worse when you haven't hung all over the thing). It climbs really well. I'd be psyched to get back on it next time you're in town Darrell.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
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Cool. It might traverse at the level you were at. I don't remember getting that close to Kurtains, but who knows. I suspect there's a good chance you were on line but I'd need to see it again to really know.
Soon I hope.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Hey bob, Im way up for an expedition to robbins crack in the woodson mountains. Are you healed up? When we going climbing again?
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Henny, If I remember right you start on the opening kurtains holds and then drop down slightly and back up to the hole. Not much for the feet. Then it pretty much goes straight up to the round arete about 6-7ft from anchors. Not a very hard route but nice quality.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2011 - 02:18am PT
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Well, lookie who showed up.
I almost posted that what we needed was someone (like you) who might remember better than me, but wasn't sure you were checking in on this thread.
I recalled some features like the hole, but wasn't positive enough anymore to say exactly how they were used. I think you may be right, hands to it first. And yeah, seems the traverse was thin feet.
It's hard enough. I still think harder than Kurtains.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Dec 11, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
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Henny, I have to keep checking back in. Can't trust you and that dimes dude.
Im living in vegas again. Not climbing yet but doing lots of mtbing and boarding.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 17, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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some recent trips
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 20, 2011 - 04:15am PT
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Greg, theres no reason you shouldnt name that arete on split rock, nobody else is going to, and youve got as valid a claim as anybody. Hell, you own that boulder after putting up flight of the ox anyway. More names are needed for that stuff on the south side for navigation if nothing else. Right now directions to stuff in the area are like "that little boulder to the right of the big boulder thats behind the pointy boulder on the left side of the trail" kinda thing.
So Elliot blows into town and solos stairway? Dayum, somebody put viagra in his cornflakes or somethin?
Did anybody send the hand traverse on the terminator?
I gotta get back out there. The weathers perfect but the days are so short. At least its only 2 days until we can start adding instead of subtracting a minute of daylight per day.
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