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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 29, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Henny, we should have got a pic of that arete you were on at the end of the day. I think it's only been done by two, maybe three people.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 01:49am PT
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The List:
1. ? Rick Piggot
2. Greg Cameron aka Eeyonkee
3. BVB aka Bob Van Belle
4. ? Watusi aka Mike Paul
5. Greg Epperson
6. Chris Lindner
7. ? Ron Kauk
8. Off White
9. Salad
10. ? Phantom X
11. ? Zip
12. Adam Kimmerly (photographer)
13. BeeHay aka Brad H.
14. Michael aka Oldcragger
15. Randy Vogel
16-17. Steve Grossman and Mimi
18. Mr. Dick Cilley
19. Ron Gomez
20. Levi
21. M. David (can't attend)
22. mungeclimber
23. Jaybro
24. Josh Higgins (http://pullharder.org);
25. blr
26. Christian Griffith
27. Pam aka Shanti
28. ? Klk
29. ScuffyB
30-31. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
32. Bruckman
33. Jeff Leads - (Prana)
34. ? Bob D'Antonio
35. ? Matt
36. Cragman
37. Dirt Claud aka Claudio
38. Sonja aka s.d
39. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
40. ? immanti
41. Eliot Carlsen
42. Gary aka illusiondweller
43. Randy Leavitt
44. R Bolton
45. Steve Belford
46. Karen Roseme
47. Terry Upton
48. ? Mooser
49. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
50. Dr. Sprock
51. Darrell Hensel aka henny (with psychiatrist)
52. M. Fisher
53. S. Girard
54. J. Campbell
55. Chris Kleppe
56. Erik (plumber)
57. Todd Gordon
58. Radical Riley
59. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th)
60. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
61. Pyrosis aka Tavis
62. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
63. James aka F10
64. ? Bluering
65. Tom Scott
66. GDavis
67. Dan Beal
68. ? Ed Hartouni
69. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
70. Porkchop_express
71. Chas
72. Johnny aka Johannsolo
73. Melissa
74. Schaffer
75. Nefarious
76. Tim
77. Jason
78. Gary Carpenter
79. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
80. Mo's brother
81. Matt
82. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
83. Anxious Melancholy
84. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
85. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
86. ? Roger Barnes
87. Dan Hauglestine
88. em knOt aka Nurse Ratchett
89. Daphne
90-91. ? Tom and Elke Lindner
92. Klimmer
93. Gonamuck aka Ron Amick
94. Dave Wonderly aka Tapes
95. Graham N
96. Dr. F
97. Shano aka Shannon Scott
98. jswan415
99. glahhg aka Nate (http://pullharder.org);
100. Jim Bridwell!
101. Snowey aka Shay (http://pullharder.org);
102. et al (http://pullharder.org);
103. et al (http://pullharder.org);
104. ATS aka Adam Stackhouse
105. jaypg aka Jay G.
106. Scott Cole
107. ? Ken Klis
108. dmr aka Derek
109. ? Curt
110-111. Dave and Wife
112. ? T2
113. ? Bobby F
114. ? Sheik
115. Pointbrk
Lodging Options:
1. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th. Camping on Lynne's property still available 03/19-20, MUST CONFIRM VIA EMAIL BY FEB 10!)
2. Jeff aka Salad has tent camping and a few rooms. Contact him via email by clicking on his username in the thread.
3. Dos Picos Park, Ramona, CA - Some spaces still available.
http://bit.ly/6n2U8U
4. Dixon Lake, Escondido, CA. - Tent Camping available. Call for reservations:
http://bit.ly/7hU7GB
1700 La Honda Drive
Escondido, CA 92027
(760) 741-3328
5. Santee Lakes RV Campground - some tent sites available
http://santeelakes.com/campsitemap.html
6. Poway Hotels -
http://bit.ly/6o9htK
7. Ramona Hotels -
http://bit.ly/
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 01:52am PT
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Didn't figure I was going to actually stump anybody, and I was right. Yes, and yes - but you knew that.
Has anybody over 5' tall been able to do Laker Girls? I heard rumor that because Lydia put it up there's a height limit on it.
It was really nice late in the afternoon. Bummer was I only had a few hours because I got hung up at work.
I have one more but the insert photo keeps hanging right now.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 02:28am PT
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Wow. Either the site is/was really unresponsive or the internet here went way south.
Kinda foreshortened and doesn't really do the problem justice, but what is it?
It would be cool if somebody could get some decent pictures of it. With action.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:35am PT
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I always loved this one Ron!!
After some quality overhanging jug pulling it had the stellar Dyno finish!! (By the way that looks like our Rick Allenby in action..)
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:44am PT
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Is that looking down Eppy's B-Day? I've always wanted to try that one.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 03:54am PT
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I believe that's the other side of Eppi's B-Day Eliot...it spanked us all one day, Henny, Johnny, Chaz and I! Still not sure what it is called.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 03:56am PT
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The List:
1. ? Rick Piggot
2. Greg Cameron aka Eeyonkee
3. BVB aka Bob Van Belle
4. ? Watusi aka Mike Paul
5. Greg Epperson
6. Chris Lindner
7. ? Ron Kauk
8. Off White
9. Salad
10. ? Phantom X
11. ? Zip
12. Adam Kimmerly (photographer)
13. BeeHay aka Brad H.
14. Michael aka Oldcragger
15. Randy Vogel
16-17. Steve Grossman and Mimi
18. Mr. Dick Cilley
19. Ron Gomez
20. Levi
21. M. David (can't attend)
22. mungeclimber
23. Jaybro
24. Josh Higgins (http://pullharder.org);
25. blr
26. Christian Griffith
27. Pam aka Shanti
28. ? Klk
29. ScuffyB
30-31. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
32. Bruckman
33. Jeff Leads - (Prana)
34. ? Bob D'Antonio
35. ? Matt
36. Cragman
37. Dirt Claud aka Claudio
38. Sonja aka s.d
39. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
40. ? immanti
41. Eliot Carlsen
42. Gary aka illusiondweller
43. Randy Leavitt
44. R Bolton
45. Steve Belford
46. Karen Roseme
47. Terry Upton
48. ? Mooser
49. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
50. Dr. Sprock
51. Darrell Hensel aka henny (with psychiatrist)
52. M. Fisher
53. S. Girard
54. J. Campbell
55. Chris Kleppe
56. Erik (plumber)
57. Todd Gordon
58. Radical Riley
59. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th)
60. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
61. Pyrosis aka Tavis
62. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
63. James aka F10
64. ? Bluering
65. Tom Scott
66. GDavis
67. Dan Beal
68. ? Ed Hartouni
69. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
70. Porkchop_express
71. Chas
72. Johnny aka Johannsolo
73. Melissa
74. Schaffer
75. Nefarious
76. Tim
77. Jason
78. Gary Carpenter
79. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
80. Mo's brother
81. Matt
82. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
83. Anxious Melancholy
84. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
85. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
86. ? Roger Barnes
87. Dan Hauglestine
88. em knOt aka Nurse Ratchett
89. Daphne
90-91. ? Tom and Elke Lindner
92. Klimmer
93. Gonamuck aka Ron Amick
94. Dave Wonderly aka Tapes
95. Graham N
96. Dr. F
97. Shano aka Shannon Scott
98. jswan415
99. glahhg aka Nate (http://pullharder.org);
100. Jim Bridwell!
101. Snowey aka Shay (http://pullharder.org);
102. et al (http://pullharder.org);
103. et al (http://pullharder.org);
104. ATS aka Adam Stackhouse
105. jaypg aka Jay G.
106. Scott Cole
107. ? Ken Klis
108. dmr aka Derek
109. ? Curt
110-111. Dave and Wife
112. ? T2
113. ? Bobby F
114. ? Sheik
115. Pointbrk
Lodging Options:
1. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th. Camping on Lynne's property still available 03/19-20, MUST CONFIRM VIA EMAIL BY FEB 10!)
2. Jeff aka Salad has tent camping and a few rooms. Contact him via email by clicking on his username in the thread.
3. Dos Picos Park, Ramona, CA - Some spaces still available.
http://bit.ly/6n2U8U
4. Dixon Lake, Escondido, CA. - Tent Camping available. Call for reservations:
http://bit.ly/7hU7GB
1700 La Honda Drive
Escondido, CA 92027
(760) 741-3328
5. Santee Lakes RV Campground - some tent sites available
http://santeelakes.com/campsitemap.html
6. Poway Hotels -
http://bit.ly/6o9htK
7. Ramona Hotels -
http://bit.ly/
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 29, 2010 - 09:47am PT
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That arete is called 'slap you silly' V15?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
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Yeap, right next to Eppy's. Slaaaappp you silly. Unknown rating, was it ever given an actual non-sandbag rating? I don't know of one, and it never seemed to matter.
Did better this time but no cigar. I could almost understand how I did it before. Hopefully next time.
It's not much of a mystery... start slapping and hope you get to the top.
Eliot - Eppy's is worth doing. From the same anchor, flip the rope around the corner and you get Slap You Silly. If you haven't done Deport Jonny on that boulder, I would also recommend that - for sure.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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I'm pretty sure people call it 12a these days which is a big bag of sand. That's interesting you guys called it 12+ Definitely hard.
How did it end up at 12a? That seems pretty stout, at least IMO. Somebody with 1/8" thick fingers rating it or something?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
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Speaking of "Slap You Silly" arete, walk past/behind Uncertainty Principle boulder towards Hellrazor and you'll come across the wide Eric's Crack, 5.9. The left arete that forms the left side of Eric's Crack has been done by some young mutant. They are calling it "Harbringer" and rating it 5.13d. And you think "Slap You Silly" is hard, take a look at this thing!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
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Darrell, are you referring back to Starving in Stereo? For that's where that statement was in reference to. And are you saying that the rating is "pretty stout" or the climb is harder than 5.12?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
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I'm saying I think 12a is a stout rating for Starving in Stereo. ie, seems harder than that to me. I have no idea what it should be rated exactly, maybe just 12+ as was mentioned earlier. Just my opinion.
Edit:
By comparison (although ratings are subjective) Lie Detector is given 12b (or so I see). I personally had more trouble doing Starving in Stereo than Lie Detector.
Is 12b what most people think Lie Detector is? Just curious. I've never tried or wanted to assign letters to those crack things.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
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I just sent you an email Darrell for I'm thouroughly confused, lol!
I can't do either, Starving or Lie Detector! Anyway, I don't see how to hang on to that chip/flake above the jams on Starving to set up for the next crappy sequence! I've always used climbs like Starving as a bench mark for 5.12's up there and that's why I always say I can't do 5.12's! Humbling either way.
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Seriously, Mr. Chicken. Are you on The Juice now ?
Performance enhancing poultry rations.
You should be in an old Cocks home somewhere by now, not sending
these knarly highball problems. WTF, Over ?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
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fwiw, i think that starving is definately harder than lie detector. a lot harder, even. there was a time i could huck laps at will on lie detector. that was never the case with starving. that crux move where the crack peters out was always hit-or-miss. on any given day, assuming good conditions (like, winter weather), it was a crapshoot as to whether or not i'd get up the thing.
starving was used as a climb-off in the '86 contest between the four folks tied for second, and nobody got up it that day. the weather was quite cool and conditions were perfect.
sucker is hard.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:34pm PT
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I wonder if there's some trick to Lie Detector that I'm missing. That thing just hurts, no feet, and seems ungodly difficult. I stopped even looking at it or trying it a while back. I've done Starving in Stereo, and I'm pretty certain I could do it again in 2 tries or so. I also heard stories of people putting hose clamps on their fingers so that they would fit in Lie Detector. I'm just not that motivated, I guess.
Josh
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
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The ratings of short finger cracks are a moving target, even more than on most boulder problems.
Not enough moves to even out the disparities caused by differences in finger size.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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One of those opening jams in Lie Detector hurts me pretty bad too. If I don't do it I need to sit around for a bit until it quits hurting before trying again. Seems like deciding you're really going for it (turn off mind) helps. I use some face holds for my feet, even liebacking against a vertical edge with my feet early on.
I suspect honed crack daddy-o's just walk up and yard up the thing on the bomber locks. eh?
Love that thing - if I can do it. The upper crack is a nice reward.
I've personally witnessed the clamps in action on Lie Detector. It's not just stories.
klk - good point.
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