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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So, my introduction to British seacliff climbing was to belay Pete Debbage leading
the first pitch of Vortices (E2/5c). Damp, sandy holds, small pro arranged carefully
behind fragile features, gale-force winds howling and waves thumping around me,
it felt more atmospheric than your average belay.
It was kind of what I'd imagined British seacliffs must be like.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I had anchored my belay, in hopes of not getting washed out to sea if a rogue wave hit.
Which seemed very possible. The huge boulder I was leaning against vibrated with
each strike, and occasionally larger waves came surging around both sides to soak my
feet.
So I was very relieved when Pete completed his lead and I could start climbing to get
away from the sea.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
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Ha! It's comin' t'getcha.
That rock looks friable, maybe even diseased, but definitely a different color than I am used to.
Going back to early Mountain issues, before the U.S. had a monthly climbing mag, I have long had a large imagined landscape of British sea cliffs, with whirling screaming sea birds, gaping caverns, and expletive non-deleting hardmen trying to out-sandbag each other.
At our secret beguilingly moody place we don't often get into that territory. With a little help from February, though, and from an ex-Scot and an ex-Brit:
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So Andy, did you leave Robert on that little rock in the midst of the ocean? How did he get off it?
And here's a few related shots:
This one's from the same place as many of Andy's, but much earlier. The area was first explored in the mid-1980s, by climbers who swam there, and later figured out land access.
You can tell this one's from Squamish - note the log booms. Held together, as it happens, by a boom stick - there's a climb at Squamish called Boomstick Crack. I've often thought it would be nice to do a series of climbs at Squamish and name them for logging terms - Whistle Punk, Steam Donkey, etc.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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The sloping cave-stance between pitches of Vortices is one of those places I
think about whenever someone writes or says (as they often do), "I always place
at least two bombproof anchors!"
The guidebook promised a fixed peg here but that had fallen out of the wet, flared
sandy crack; Pete expertly arranged a spiderweb of other stuff instead, which
looked like it had no intention of holding the F2 fall that would certainly result
if a leader happened to go airborne while pulling the next roof.
"Uh, maybe you should lead this one too," I said unbravely.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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As we topped out, the sky darkened and the wind wound up. Pete understood that his
American visitor really had to lead something, so he pointed out an easier classic,
Finale Groove (HVS/4c).
Fortunately, this one wasn't scary. It even had a few fixed pegs behind wobbly blocks.
I clipped them all. When Pete came up he commented that he wouldn't have trusted
those, would have placed his own protection, but I sure didn't see where.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 10:24pm PT
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Anders, that was Tom of Irish parents and London upbringing, who on that occasion untied and 4th classed out the north end.
Thank you for the historical traverse photo. I think this is one of the pioneers:
And I just love this shot from Chiloe. The lighting is perfect.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Thanks. That shot above is my favorite, for the stormy mood of the day.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
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More accurately, the light is perfect. There are many other things to like about it, too. It looks like an unspoiled planet, for example. And it helps that it is a memento of an impressive day out.
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Me at the crux of Adair by the Sea in 1985 at low tide. Otter Cliff, Acadia National Park, Maine. Photo Karen Radakcovich, Casey Newman belayer.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Adair by the Sea is a good one, I should get back there next summer.
I know GOclimb has some fine Acadia slides, and no doubt other current & former
right-coasters do too.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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I've posted a couple from Acadia. I'll see if I can find any more good ones.
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Some from Great Head, maybe?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
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Thank you Rich Ross.
from the Pacific to the Atlantic
that is a good action shot that conveys honest feeling
I did that climb in '75 or '76.
This also has likely appeared elsewhere in this superemporium.
photo by Ken Nichols
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Rock Lobster, led on the FA but popular mainly as a (well-named) toprope,
on "the Northeast's only sea stack."
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Larry, that first Great Head pic (your wife?) is a great photo!
I looked, and sorry, I'm spent.
Too bad. In my opinion, you can never get too much great head.
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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(your wife?)
Hah, no actually it's our daughter, at age 14. She had an adventurous childhood,
which is now continuing self-propelled.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This is fun stuff!
Chiloe,
I agree with GO's remarks concerning that first photo.
The classic female approach is nicely showcased: no brawn, all finesse and poise.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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Meanwhile, back at the ra...ouch! There is a seriously past-it phrase. Though Werner Herzog did resurrect the era in Encounters at the End of the World, in the course of suggesting that memory of humans will soon, say 10,000 years, exist mainly under the ice at the South Pole. Check out the frozen sturgeon.
Anyway, back on the Pacific side: sea stack bouldering on the Olympic Peninsula. Don't lose track of the tide, here.
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