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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 14, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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It may be related in aspects, but I'd still call him on this...
Older attitudes of elitism and arrogance towards outsiders helped limit progress across the climbing world by restricting access to information and creating the impression of superhuman ability on the part of top performers
Total bullsh#t...
...and it's today's injection of commercially-driven hero-worship that creates the impression superhuman ability is required to climb well.
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MisterE
Social climber
CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
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Thanks for the link, SGropp - great read!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 14, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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Your "holdings" are hillarious, supermama. Love it!
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jul 14, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
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Edit: Skip my post--Werner, one of the original "valley syndrome" progenitors, says I'm full of sh'it.
healyje
I totally disagree. That's where he hit the nail on the head.
25 years ago, Midnight Lightning was considered out of reach but for a select few hardmen. Really strong lesser-known climbers failed on it in the 80s and I think it was the aura and the scene that held them back. It took the kids of the early 90s to expose it as just another beautiful v8 to be crushed. And, sorry, pads are not the explanation.
There may be rampant commercialism, but gone are the days when tanned one-arm pullups and pecking orders gained you status in the climbing world. Who could be more emblematic of this shift than Adam Ondra? The hardest hardman: a short-armed, long-necked, uncool, pale climbing phenom. Now some moron will say that Ondra can't climb Twilight Zone.
Sorry for the drift--way to go K & A.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 14, 2011 - 05:57pm PT
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I totally disagree. That's where he hit the nail on the head.
25 years ago, Midnight Lightning was considered out of reach but for a select few hardmen.
Last time I checked Midnight Lightning was on a small rock out in the open near Camp 4 and available to anyone to step up to. I don't recall ever hearing of anyone being denied a go on it. Anyone 'limited' by Midnight Lightning was entirely self-limied. That section of his tract is just one long bullshit whine.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
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One tiny correction, Pete. Getting across to Aquarian is on bathooks, not batheads. We left just a short line of holes with a few rivets. There were a few batheads low on the route, as we quickly abandoned the experiment.
Even the Reid guide got that right. Sheesh, dude. Still perpetrating the lie, I see.
:-)
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jul 14, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
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it's the mindset, not the rock (small rock? I think not; for proportional influence on climbing, the columbia boulder might be bigger than el cap). I think the essay does apply to wos. Self-limitation is a half-truth and a myth.
Why do "send trains" occur? Because "self limitations" suddenly disappear for a group of people in succession?
Like it or not, actions you think are self-directed are often limited and shaped by forces outside of your consciousness. Calling it all self-limitation is fine if you are content to ignore the way mental things work.
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Tarz
Mountain climber
Calli
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Jul 14, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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Wow I need a session with Freud after that 2nd to last post. I'm confoozled.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 14, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
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How come the only hard offwidth with a send train is the belly?
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 14, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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tarek
You're so full of sh'it.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 15, 2011 - 12:53am PT
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Holy frig, Richard - that might be the shortest non-ranting-est post you ever wrote! ;)
Sorry about the misinformation [not disinformation] re the final traverse. Maybe Ammon can just drill 'em out then and stick in some rivets then?
Anyway, check yer email, and ask Mark to do the same, eh?
And let's take up the cry: "A thousand bolts to Horse Chute!"
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#1SuperMama
Social climber
Oakdale, Ca
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:11am PT
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Okay - check out post 1000.
It's official!
And yea, I did do a SuperMama overkill, but sounded like I needed to!
Night!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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Post #1,000, by #1SuperMama
Jul 14, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
Not holding any longer!
Now you can officially toast, take a drink, or whatever is your preference!
The official word - "We are exhausted and biveeing on the top of Pitch 12. We have one pitch on Aquarian done and are going to eat and then sleep. We are hoping two or three more days and then down to valley floor by Sunday/Monday." Woot Woot!
So proud of the two of them. What an epic for Ammon and Kait and for this thread!
It's been real!
Now who will do the TA???
Over and almost out,
The #1SuperMama
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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Congrats to Ammon and Kait! Way to send.
Did Ammon fill the batholes with rivets on the traverse into Aquarian?
How are their supplies holding out? And what is a TA?
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Tarz
Mountain climber
Calli
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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I think she means the third ascent Pete !
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#1SuperMama
Social climber
Oakdale, Ca
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Well I'm trying to get this lingo down - guess I still don't have it. Oh well! hahaha
TA = Whoops!!! =just realized what everyone will think, OMG! LOLOLOL
Delirious!
And can't quite get over the feat of the Pirate and his lady.
TA = Third Ascent
Any takers?!?!?!
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Jul 15, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
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Haha!!!!
check out fish's post on the UKC thread.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 15, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
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^^^^^ Russ sure has a sense of humor
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