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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Fun day on the hill yesterday. I took Greg Horvath and his friend Matt all the way down to the western frontier, where my south slope trail currently ends, and each of them ended up bagging an FA. Matt (last name, Greg?) cranked a short but powerful and severely overhanging finger crack that he called "Rat Crack" which looked harder than the V2 rating he gave it. Unfortunately I was busy spotting and didnt get any pics of it.
After that we made our way down to "The Terminator", a route I did over 20 years ago and only recently re-discovered. We cleared the landing, then Greg did a bold highball ascent of a new line directly up the center of the boulder, rating it 5.11. He didnt give it a name at the time, though it certainly deserves one.
I have eyeballed much new route potential along my trail, and it was good to see some of it finally get climbed. I have reached the west end of the southern escarpment now, and am continuing westward into a concentration of boulders where the quality of rock appears to be superb.
We shall see.Gregs new line hairball top out, note the splint on his finger
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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For the life of me, I just didn't feel solid in them. Do all scarpas climb like a dutch clog? ...felt a "little clunky;" maybe it is just me??
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Cool Ron. So much for taking some time off, Greg.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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where is scruffy b?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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I just got some scarpa asym's with vibram rubber and I love em. More of a smearing than edging shoe, but they edge pretty good too. BITD low top scarpas resoled with 5.10 rubber were the best edging machines around.
Why dont you tag along next time doug, the more the merrier as far as im concerned.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2011 - 11:00am PT
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Maybe. Just maybe.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Poor, poor, pitiful Doug... I must admit, I did torture him this summer by making him face climb. Cracks? Bah. It isn't real climbing until the holds are so small you can't see them anymore. Then the LMs shine, not on that crack non-sense.
So, even though it isn't at Woodson, a couple of pictures of a mystery route where a Woodson local (Doug) played a big part in the FA (okay, the second still isn't quite done, and now it snowed here - frick - so it's down to looking for a warm window). I just wish I had a couple of pictures of the first pitch, which is brilliant itself. The route is a little steeper than it looks, and fairly thin. Good luck with a non-clog shoe.
I don't understand it. Get the face climbing dialed in, then run off to the cracks as soon as you get to Woodson. Wow.
Edit: Uh, Greg... What's up with the splint?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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cracks...bleah
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Doug is just getting psyched for Indian creek.
Darrel, sliced the base of my pinky with a broken ceramic bowl. Couple of stitches- the splint is to keep me from bending my finger which reopens the wound.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 04:16am PT
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I just know some exploration went down this weekend. Post up.
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LMo
climber
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Nov 15, 2011 - 12:30am PT
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A couple from this weekend.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Nov 15, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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Henny, lets just say I learned the finer points of schwacking...like rushing a nest of dead vines backwards so you don't gouge your eyeballs. I took at oath of allegiance so unless I want to go into and then come out of the wood chipper,* I can't spill the beans. Seriously, what beans though? The search continues...
*We watched "Fargo" this weekend. It's a good movie if you haven't seen it.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Nov 15, 2011 - 09:47am PT
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That foot/hand match on the Painted boulder is one of the coolest moves on Woodson. So stylish. Here's another one...
But seriously, you guys better quit holding out on the pics.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 15, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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Ron Amick (Gonamuck) did a delicate problem about 10' left of the hand/foot match problem, up the bald arete. Highball, hard, and scary. All about the footwork. I never tried it, because, being an Amick problem, it was not worthy of the attention of a (c)bone-crushing, massively sw0le, living breathing American Legend. Bisshes.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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Hey Eliot, annoying being on the ouside looking in, isn't it? And then they go and hold out on the pictures.
I'm thinking about trying to make my first visit of the fall, hope I can still find the place.
Nice bvb, I guess you told Ron.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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God O Bob
American Bishie Legend!
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Nov 16, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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Ahh, Woodson...how I miss it. All I have now are these threads to satiate me. And then they hold out on the pics. Descriptions should suffice Doug, Greg, Mark and Lauren. C'mon now...
Henny, when you head down don't forget your camera...
An Amick problem ten feet to the left, eh? Oh yeah, I've backed off that one...
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Nov 16, 2011 - 06:54am PT
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was wondering when we would hear from you! : )
and unfortunately that's all I have to say
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Nov 20, 2011 - 09:51am PT
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Nov 20, 2011 - 10:06am PT
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The day I climbed w/ Lydia up there, we fired Uncertainty, and Widow Bereft. She was fun to climb with. And tough as nails and would stay till dark, and climb all day.
"In The Pits" is not my climb, never been there. Might be a mike geller creation, or someone like that.
Lydia and I were trying this thing, it's in a corridor, by the road. But then someone else figured a (different) way to do it, so we gave up. Before Big Grunt, right by the road, opposite an Arete w/ TR bolts (The Golden Age of Motoring, 10b) Pure arete climbing, almost.
I started to fade after Piggot showed me Adam Ant, and Fade To Black. Both freaking sick. Never even tried 'em.
Climbing at Woodson is awesome. The day can have so many variations: climb w/ so and so, then take off and boulder a while. Explore for new. Find another group, tag along. Then boulder down the hill as darkness falls.
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