favorite 5.8s in the valley

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Messages 81 - 92 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 9, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
Rodger, you will love Ejesta and Nurdle. Just did Golden Needles and Commitment this weekend. Really nice routes.

Another party on Nurdle (did it last spring, did it again this weekend)
Link up with the 5.8 second pitch of Knob Job for a great time. Rap off with a single 70m or two ropes.

Sweet double cracks on Golden Needles
(another one where a 70m will be good for the rap)

Great 5.8 crack on Commitment's p1

Murcy on second pitch of Commitment, just below crux roof (that one was MINE :)
zeta

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
great pics rhyang....glad you like Golden Needles. It's a great 2nd pitch!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Oct 10, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Yeah, after a little off-road action in the land of dispersed camping,


Rob and I played on Golden Needles,


Nurdle (first time for me, very fun), but clearly not the first time for this soloist bringing up a rope to play on nearby routes,


Sherrie's Crack (top-rope) (I was content to hang-dog my way up the evil tips part to get to the great hand crack),


Generator Crack (which oddly seemed much more exhausting than it did two weeks ago when Joey F. took this picture of the crux lowering-without-throwing-up),


and Commitment, with very nice leads of the cruxes by Robert.


More was planned but I was super out-of-it and unwilling to push it. Turned out that my night chills and drenched sweats were not sleeping-bag mismanagement after all, but some kind of cold/flu fever deal (my first in 3 years, and it starts 2 days after I get a flu shot--coincidence?), so I am glad to have held up for at least a good passel of awesome routes.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 10, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
Last time I got a flu shot I felt sick the next weekend too. Kind of wondered if something wasn't quite right .. glad we went home when we did. Get well soon !
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Oct 10, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
Rob-

I've done Commitment, but many years ago. I also enjoyed The Surprise, and have done it both ways, the traverse to the right on p.2 (1980) and also the 5.10a finish (1981). Try Again Ledge is O.K. after the first 20 feet or so, which is a bit spooky and hard to protect. Your pictures of Golden Needles and Nurdle make them look very attractive. I still need to do Hanging Teeth and The Caverns on the FOB.

Rodger
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
May 6, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
Bumping for Valley 5.8 - first I saw this thread
Awesome list Ed - thanks
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
May 6, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
Clint included Brown is Black. This beast is not 5.8. Only a confident 5.9+/5.10 leader should attempt it IMO.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 6, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
Move them to RR where they will be happy to know that they are actually 5.9.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 17, 2014 - 06:36am PT
Bumping for the Audubon-Buttress-curious, among whose ranks I include myself.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 17, 2014 - 06:43am PT
And I'm Try Again Ledge-curious, Rodger.

Why a PG-13?
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Oct 17, 2014 - 07:11am PT
How about the Cow left? It used to be kinda run out but it was great fun.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Oct 17, 2014 - 07:29am PT
Mouse-

Only the start, which is hard to protect for about the first 20-30 feet is PG13. The rest of the climb segues into The Caverns.
Messages 81 - 92 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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