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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Oct 29, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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I took about 8 months off from Stoney in the last year, now that I have been taking T I have gone 3 times in three weeks.
It is truly amazing. I am totally weak now but hope to get back on the pigs.
Juan
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
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hey Jeff
on tuesday some kid decided to pull out his chisel and hammer. I was walking back from Turlock and I thought he was pounding in a Pin. right at the start of the downclimb you'll notice like five new chisel marks. we ousted that kid and his friends immediately from the point. His excuse was that he could'nt get up to the top somehow and making a good foot hold was going to help! the funny thing about all that crazy scene is that he had a crash pad but no climbing shoes!
P.S. If that same kid is reading my posting then listen. Go gets some rock boots then get over to Stoney Point. we'll teach you how to rock climb!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 29, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
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So the question is: Who's missing their crash pad?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
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just another spectacular day at Stoney point!
temps were just right.
time change occurred a few weeks ago and all of us are having to adapt to it.
have a good day!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
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hey thank's for responding. the Stoney Point thread is just getting started! this place has many areas of climbing interest. i'll bring more pic's to the table.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 19, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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It's pretty amazing to see the whole street full of cars and nowhere to park even after daylight savings has left us. This place just keeps drawing us in. So do the friends we meet there.
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:04am PT
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does anyone remember the sword guy from around 88. apparently he rode his bike from ohio(i think) to hollywood to make swords and break into show business. he lived in the bushes behind pink floyd for a few months.
one day i was bouldering alone in front when out of the corner of my eye i noticed a young fellow, butt naked, peering at me from the bushes(those darn bushes again). i bailed.
seriously thats where it all began for me so that place will always be special. man did my fingers hurt so good as i drove home on the 118 each day.
so many good times and people!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
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dan.... wow don't remember him.... Yabo usta hang in them bushes some.
Chatsworth is the right place to come to and use your "sword" so you can break into showbizz.....
We see alot of that going on.... keeps the place fun.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 21, 2009 - 03:27am PT
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I've never really been a Stoney regular but still ended up out there like 1,000 times. Here's the only shot I have of the joint, from about 30 years ago on the Yabbo Arete, V2 or something.
JL
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 21, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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Thanks for the shot. Here is one from brooks site. V2? hummm... In your photo you can see largonaut chalked up too. What year did you put that up? Any other FA's of note?
Matt
http://ayola.com/stoney/index.html
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 21, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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Largonaut, Powerglide and Ummagumma all went up around 1975, and all seemed roughly about the same difficulty. Also the Yabo mantle on Rock 1 and the stuff on Pink Floyd or whatever you call it. All good stuff and stiff 35 years ago sans pads. Don't fall.
JL
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 22, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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Wow...It seems like eons since I was there! My last time was with the "Guargoyle" who took me to Yabo arete. I thought it was a cool prob! (At least V2+...)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 02:30am PT
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i was told that if you climbed the three boulder problems: "Yabo arete 2 router bit!.... then largonaut" earned ya a "Triple Crown"!.
pyro.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 24, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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This is in the section of stoney that borders the 118, between canoga and topanga. The land used to be private, but was annexed onto the park sometime in the last 10 years (at least that's the story I got). My buddy Sparky and I have found 50+ lines on the boulders back there. you can see the freeway cracks in the background. Lemme know if anyone wants to go, I'd be happy to show ya around. The climbs are more spread out than stoney proper, and probably need some cleaning.
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apogee
climber
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Nov 24, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
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Wow, the timing of your post above is uncanny...
I drove through Santa Susanna pass yesterday, and wondered (again) who owns the land on the north side of 118, on both sides of the pass? I've never gotten out of the car and walked it, but there is a lot more 'stone' (using the word loosely) there than at SP. Is is private land? State? City?
Got more pics of the surrounding area? Post up!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 24, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
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Don't know about the other land, but the spot I mentioned is now part of stoney point park. Will post more shots sometime.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 24, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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I used to climb at an area between the freeway and the RXR tracks. You could drive a road just before the 118 East bound on ramp on Topanga, take the road a hundered yards or so and there was a fun crack and OW dihedral thay we used to lead. Anyone still climb over there?
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Nov 26, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
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The land north at Rocky Peak Rd, is park land. But, not LA Park land. Some part of Santa Susana Park ?. Here's some information on the history. At one time a group that included Bob Hope owned the land and then lease it to Getty Oil. At that time we could drive up the road, now trail. I believe they did a land swap for it to become a park. For the right info on this check out Santa Susana Park Association.
On the other side of the 118 fwy. It is a mix of private owners, including The Church at Rocky Peak. I went climbing around the area across from the church and was asked to leave. I do believe that land is marked for homes. Even though the owner who was the one who kicked us off said "No Homes"
mmm
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
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Here is some old school funk for y'all. No hands boulder problems circa 1961. Roger Brown (who filmed Sentinel- The West Face) did a little film with a star studded cast! I have never seen the film. Has anyone else seen it? From Summit June 1961.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Nov 27, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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Seen the article before but didn't remember there was a movie... would love to see it.
I remember folks going up and down that route with no hands but never thought of it as particularly good training, though I also remember Kamps seemed compulsive about doing it as a kind of warm up. Wish people would post up more old photos of the place... very nostalgic... thanks.
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