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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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klk, I would recommend using Quikrete Non-Shrink Precision Grout, tested to 14,000 psi to handle the heaviest climber ego.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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While you're at it, fill in the crack behind Camp 6 on the Nose, so halfwit climbers don't keep putting crap in it. It shouldn't take more than a few yards.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Safest time to climb Double Cross is just after a big weekend,
when the bodies are stacked like cordwood.
A shoulder stand can get you to the first bolt then.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Tahoe
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East Face AND East Buttress on Whitney. Great climbs, but I don't need to do them again. Hike a bit further and climb Fishhook Arete on Russell or do South Face of Charlotte Dome.
I'll also add Overhang Bypass at Joshua Tree. Great climb, but the fun is over so fast.
On Double Cross, why are the bolts at the crack? Oh right, I forgot. Given its intermediate rating and proximity to Hidden Valley people try to learn how to crack climb on this route.
It'll be interesting to see how long those bolts last.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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The bolts on DC were approved by the climbing ranger, so take it up with him.
I heard that the NP got tired of paying the rescue costs of hauling of people with broken ankles.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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who said anything at Pinnacles was overrated? You just gotta climb there more my alaskan friend... there's the salathe on the hand, the rr on the monolith, machete ridge, lava falls, all great climbs at varying grades.
But i do agree about Whitney E. Face-i loved it the first time, was bored the second.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Some of us are having fun with the thread.
I grew up in the Bay Area and have had plenty of fun at the Pinnacles.
But seriously, if the Valley was a 1 hour drive, and the Pinnacles a 4 hour drive, would anyone ever bother to go to the Pinnacles to climb?
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CF
climber
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Cryin' Time Again
It is really
CRYING TIME AGAIN per MR Morris
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Tolman--my thoughts exactly. I used to be way into the Pinnacles, then I realized what a choss pile it is.
I waited five hours to climb Illusion Dweller (there was some REALLY slow parties in front of us). It was worth it.
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TYeary
Social climber
Huaraz, Peru
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Double Cross is not THAT dangerous. No bolts are needed, and I will REMOVE them if they are indeed there.
Most over rated; Mt.Hood by any route.
Tony
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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I disagree regarding OZ (you've got to be kidding) and Illusion Dweller (puh-leeze).
The bolts on DC make it a reasonable lead, leave em' be.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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North America?
Any of the long routes at potrero chico.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I Really (!) hope you climbed something in the interrum. No, one pitch route, is worth 5 hrs of inactivity when there are uncountable other options at hand... and yeah Illusion dweller is, stellar, I first climbed it, onsight in '83 (no waiting).
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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"The bolts on DC make it a reasonable lead, leave em' be"
You're kidding, right? Please tell me that was meant in sarcasm.
Seriously, I hope DC isn't bolted and Russ was just joking.
If not, those bolts need to go. ASAP.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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This thread is dedicated to the genius of Jeff Batten.
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SicMic
Social climber
Boulder, CO
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I'll admit it's tough to defend E. Butt and Royal Arches, even if (or until) you do them in hiking boots. But if you're not feeling it on Bastille Crack I'd suggest you leave your rope in the car and downclimb it from the summit. Jim- thanx for the luv (I named it 'Bad Rad Duality') on that old pitch.
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ec
climber
ca
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Traveler's Buttress
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Here's a second vote for Traveler Buttress.
I'll throw another sacred route in the fray though: I was disappointed in the Red Dihedral on Incredible Hulk. One beautiful pitch, totally obscured by the heinous grovel at the top.
Oh, and hat's off to Batten. There's a whole new crop of fish to troll...
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Jack Burns
climber
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Primrose Dihedrals and Supercrack of the Desert. Primrose is okay because you get to stand on a tower at the end of it but I thought it didn't live up to all the hype. There's quite a few better tower routes, imo. And Supercrack is just a boring peice of crap compared to a lot of other routes at IC.
Also, I really enjoyed Double Cross with the nice fatty new bolts. When I first led it with a triple set of Camalots it was SUPER dicey. I don't care what all these super hardcore trad climbers say, the bolts were needed and the climb is much better now. I just wish they'd put a few more on Hot Rocks so I can go project it.
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