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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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Sep 25, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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MORE ! ! !
^,,^
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 09:15am PT
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The South Buttress seemed like the place to be yesterday. Sunny and warm even though the leaves are gone.
We saw other parties on Inferno, Lost Souls, Ladyslipper and Last Unicorn. Any Tacos among them?
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Tomcat and I went to Mt. Oscar in Crawford Notch. Our first time there and like the south buttress, warm and sheltered. We actually liked it better though, more route options and the rock is beautiful. Have you checked it out?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 09:39am PT
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No, I haven't been to Mt Oscar, though it's on the edge of my radar. Post some pics!
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Nice shots Chiloe!
Hey, long ago in 1979, I did a first ascent somewhere up there with Ed Webster, maybe on the S. Buttress? I cannot remember the name of the climb or even the details, might have just been a new finish to an already existing route. I know it is in the guidebook but I don't have one. Could you let me know what the heck we did back then? I remember it was good climbing...
Peter
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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I did maybe 15 f/a's and ffa's on Whitehorse and only 1 or2 have seen more than a couple of repeats. Guess they are too runout ? Or maybe people just sport climb more now. Oh well , most of them are pretty good routes anyway.
john
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Slabbo,
I am sorry that your efforts on Whitehorse faded into obscurity. But my one afternoon on that great cliff in 1979 was spent with Ed Webster, so our climb was fricken famous. There were lecture tours, slideshows, photos of him, by him, (the same shots!) the route was uprated, downrated, quality debated, and people came from hither and yon to repeat the thing I am sure. I bet Chiloe has a poster of it on his office wall!
Just kidding, I don't remember the climb, but I remember really liking Ed, and how we razed him back then...
Peter
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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We used to bust Ed too- "photo by" Webster. Ed , how did you get photos of Ed Webster BY Ed Webster ???? Great guy who has put up MANY high quality f/a's.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Chiloe,
had so much fun there. If I'm pssing through I will certainly give you some warning and would love to climb on that superclean granite again. Just a question out of curiousity.... has anybody retro bolted any of the routes there, or is clipping those antique bolts an essential part of the Whitehorse experience. It always seems fun to clip old crappy bolts and pins as long as A: Your in your comfort zone, or B: you don't fall!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 11:38am PT
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Maysho:
Could you let me know what the heck we did back then? I remember it was good climbing...
I'll look your route up when I'm back home with my guidebooks tonight, if somebody else
hasn't already done so.
Slabbo:
I did maybe 15 f/a's and ffa's on Whitehorse and only 1 or2 have seen more than a couple of
repeats. Guess they are too runout ? Or maybe people just sport climb more now.
Prolly all of the above. Where are your routes?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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Pennsylenvy:
a question out of curiousity.... has anybody retro bolted any of the routes there, or is clipping
those antique bolts an essential part of the Whitehorse experience.
Bolts on many climbs have been upgraded -- the preference is for "rebolting" rather than
"retrobolting," although there's been some of both. Sometimes a rusty old bolt is just a
friendly reminder that you're off route, and so was someone else.
Other times it might reflect the thought, "Serves you right if you fall on this!"
Here's a shot Jim E took on our climb yesterday, of a nice new bolt that was not comforting.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Looks like the last pitch of Jacobs Ladder there Chiloe.Mrs. Stryker and I did that for a first date.
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cowpoke
climber
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^^^what route did you guys climb, yesterday?!? (trying to guess from first pic, but no clue)
Any Tacos among them? sadly, not me. unpacking while I jealously looked out at the beautiful weather knowing folks like you were having more fun than me.
Edit: did Tomcat get it?
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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TC and I did - Bit's N Pieces, Unforgettable Fire, Unwanted Guests, Aiwass,Problem Child,Endless Summer,Burnin' Down The House,Man's Best Friend,ETC....
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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I've left some skin and rubber on Bits and Pieces....
The more manly TC Slabbo refers to is not me.....lol....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
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Tomcat:
Looks like the last pitch of Jacobs Ladder there Chiloe.Mrs. Stryker and I did that for a first date.
Good eye, Jacob's Ladder it is, on the 3rd pitch but there's one more to the top. The climb's
out-of-the-way enough that neither Jim or I had done it, and we had a good time. Here's
Jim E on pitch 2 (5.10a):
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Nice picture.I just clip the anchors there by that"bong"flake and go on to the top.Works fine with doubles.Fun up there.
Maysho's route would be the FFA of the Roadcut Pitch on South Butt Direct I think,at 5.11bR.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
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Jim E has gone to lurker mode, but perhaps he won't mind if I post a few more of his photos
from yesterday.
Pitch 3 was the nominal crux (5.10c):
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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Tomcat:
I just clip the anchors there by that "bong" flake and go on to the top.Works fine with
doubles. Fun up there.
That flake is an ugly one, alright. I was quite surprised when it turned out to be the
belay ledge (below)!
The new pitch 4 goes straight up and then slightly right from the left edge of the roof.
5.10b or maybe c with two bolts and small cams. It's seen noticeably less traffic
than the 3 pitches below.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
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Jim following P3:
and me following P4:
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