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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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regular route on Fairview...
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BV
Trad climber
Reno
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Im sure it's not the best 5.9 in the UNIVERSE...
But Straight Shooter out in Red Rocks is a pretty challenging 1 pitch 5.9
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Cenotaph Corner in North Wales is pretty awesome, too. A lot of history to the route, and an amazing line. Though I guess maybe a bit harder than 5.9. And there's some pretty good 5.9s elsewhere in England, e.g. at Almscliff.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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"p2 of Reed's Direct is a great challenge, but it feels a little awkward, and when I escape left at the end I don't get that "triumphant" feeling that an all time classic should have."
Clint? Escaping the wide section? Don't do that...
The 5.9 third pitch on the left side (some OW) is a nice finish to the route too.
And I didn't even realize the second pitch of CP of F is 5.9. I thought it was 5.8. Nice pitch though.
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Steck Salathe
Coatimundi Whiteout
Hairraiser Buttress
Travelers Buttress
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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My votes go to:
The Wasteland - Cochise Stronghold - Rated 5.8 but it's 5.9 for sure! Tricky routefinding, overhanging bulges and very few fixed anchors. The last pitch went up a overhanging prow on outrageous jugs with no bolts in sight. One of the very best routes in a very cool area. There has been a spate of new route activity in this area, chiefly by Scott Ayres. Really good looking stone abounds with amazing incut jugs everywhere.
Igor Unchained- Needles Super climbing on pitches 1 & 3. Good exposure.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Did I see any votes for Epinephrine in Black Velvet canyon? One of my Faves.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Another vote for Igor,
but I've probably repeated Whodunit more than any other .9 I've done. If Igor was only 1-1/2 hrs away it would have Whodunit beat though.
I would place Reeds in the hardest .9 I've ever done category. Too much like work to make it a favorite. And, it's in that damn Disneyland ditch.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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New Diversions is practically 5.9 too, and has it all for maximum fun: finger crack, steep face, chicken heads for slinging and cruising on.
Great photo of lower crack to knobs
(grabbed off net).
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Bump, until we reach a concensus!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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New Diversions looks like the best route ever. I saw a picture of the knob section of the climb. i did not know it had a crack section. Total classic look
I loved Reeds- i had done Tulgey Wood at devils Tower and that was a steep gnarly fist crack- after learning to trust the fisties Reeds was not so bad- one of my favorite valley routes
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Dopey Duck, Shortoff Mt., NC. Believe It!
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Hobo Dan, New Div is an all-time favorite, and even has a thin straight-in crack above the knobs.
I guess to make it 5.9 you'd maybe have to yard on a piece or two on that thin crack, but it's definitely worth the sin! Inch for inch, it's a great route.
Bill
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Igor Unchained is right up there, per many previous posts...
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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The red dihedral Incredible Hulk
Epinephrine
The Line lovers leap
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donnyji
Social climber
Washinton, DC
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I'm gonna have to go with On The Lamb, on Lamb Dome.
Plenty of climbs listed here I might like more depending on my mood though.
I usually post as davidji, but I'm travelling, and made a new account to post.
Didn't look at every post to see who resurrected this thread, but good call!
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michaellane
climber
Spokane (spo-KAN), WA
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A few to consider:
Flower ... Suicide
Open Book ... Tahquitz
Dave's Deviation ... Tahquitz
Colorado Crack ... Josh
Reed's ... Yosemite
The Dihedral ... Minnehaha (props? anyone?)
--ML
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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the problem is there are so many stellar climbs at that grade ....
So far I'm going with Atch's list, though Coatimundi is a sandbag and I haven't done Hairraiser (how is that possible?)
If we go back to single pitches, Lower progressive, Fall Wall, Elevator, and Climb & Punishment (unless it's a .10a that week) at Vedauwoo are ones you won't confuse with anything else. As are the slightly longer, Tulgey wood (3 pitches) and Soler (2, or a boulder prob) at Devil's tower.
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