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Ibex
climber
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I take it that no one actually knows the answer. Even the ultimate guide book by J. Kielkowski (K2 and the Northern Baltoro Mustagh) is showing Fritz's route going up and around the corner, beyond which is the upper end of the Hockey-stick Couloir.
I trust Wiessner, but I also wonder whether Pasang Lama ever read and confirmed the claim that they reached 8380 meters after that left traverse. Yet, in any case, I suppose that only Fritz had an altimeter. And do not take me wrong: unquestionably, Fritz Wiessner is a great hero.
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Ibex
climber
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Mike m: You do not need to find the book, just try to remember its title or its author. That would help a great deal.
By the way, it must be said somewhere that JIM CURRAN (in his book: K2 - The Story of the Savage Mountain) has messed it up a great deal saying that BARRRY BLANCHARD et al have partly repeated the Kukuczka-Piotrowski route. In the AAJ (1994, p.246) Barry states clearly that in 1993 they followed the above-mentioned route to just above the serac before they traversed right to the Cesen spur. In other words, they hardly entered the immense south face. I do not know where this misunderstanding originates from. Here is the quote from Curran's book, which is completely false:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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It is something like K2 the 1939 tragedy the story of the Weissner expedition. By curren. Sounds like you have read it.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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That is the one. Sorry about the misinformation was trying to pull info off my phone. Been a long time since I read it, but I remember it being a good read.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 24, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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BUMP !. . !,To milkshakes at the Mountain House gift shop soda fountain , like, beers later on, to the fond memories of Sky Top, thank you.F W, H K, W R, C R, T R,cryptic personal thanx to one family and two ledgeneds.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
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Tis a small world indeed!
Had a short, but wonderful visit from Patsy Batchelder and Andy Wiessner here on the boat in New Zealand several weeks ago.
Fun time back in Santa Cruz in the early 70s hey what there Fuzzywuzzy and Haanster!
Patsy's uncle was John Curry for the record.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
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Wiessner Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
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I give thanks for Fritz Wiessner.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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Nice connection Joe!
I look forward to meeting Andy down the road.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 31, 2016 - 03:10pm PT
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Bump for
1st page worthyness ?
i noticed that there is an Angus Wiessner,
Does anyone know the relationship?
Is it a Grandson?
Thank you, Al Rubin, I thought I'd seen that.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jul 31, 2016 - 07:10pm PT
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As mentioned several times earlier in this thread (though posted several years ago) Angus is Fritz's grandson.
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pile
Mountain climber
Kearsarge, CA
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Feb 23, 2017 - 03:33pm PT
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bump for a badass! and for climbing content
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Feb 23, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
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I just read the interview with Dave Dornan. The "Traffic Cop" in the SD Needles may be what Dave Rearick called the "Totem Pole", and I seem to recall Dave telling me he free climbed it at about 5.8 and that he had heard a shoulder stand had been used on the FA. If Dave were easier to reach at his retirement home I might ask him if he remembers.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 23, 2017 - 05:20pm PT
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Extended "Family" top of the page Bump,
Last spring Angus came east for a week. I spoke to him and called the author of the Rumney guide book who grabbed his brother and together showed Angus a great 4 days of climbing.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 23, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
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hey there say, pile... thanks for the great bump...
also, say, jgill...
thanks for sharing the nice note, there...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2019 - 12:47pm PT
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Fritz Bump...
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 23, 2019 - 01:12pm PT
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Took ole Fritz out to Stoney once in the 70s. He "vahnted" to do "someting" low angle. So I took him over to Spencer's Slab. He loved it.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 28, 2019 - 03:12am PT
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I often wondered how much rock he climbed in VT. you would think that he would keep meticulous records but we seem to have little info..
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 28, 2019 - 04:26am PT
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By the early 1970s Fritz was no longer a fan of reporting his exploits. The Guide books & stories that they promoted were often wrong. He was still climbing new climbs around the Gunks & elsewhere but had washed his hands of the whole business of reporting. This was in no small part due to the actions of opportunistic climbers who perpetrated a shakedown that led to the creation of the "Trust". (He was certainly not going to tell those "reformatory school drop-outs" much, if anything)
I would be surprised if he kept anything more than brief notations of where & the length or number of pitches.
In the '70s he also climbed in New Hampshire, using the Dartmouth cabin/hut for a week before the bugs hit in early spring.
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