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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
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Desert Classic Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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Bump for the glorious plug...
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Q75
Trad climber
Shiprock, NM
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Anyone wanting to climb Ship Rock or on Navajolands should join the 'Dine' (Navajo) Rock Climbers Coatlition' on Facebook or feel free to contact me @ qetutt@yahoo.com. I am a tribal member and also a climber as well that enjoy having visitors and as for the 'No Climbing' rule, it still applies but if you're out and about along with a tribal member, you're most likely to get away with just a warning but go 'without a tribal member' you will get your gear confiscated.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Q75- You clearly have a unique position and perspective.
Beyond some uneven enforcement (LOL) could you describe the tribe's position on continued closure. Are certain summits still closed for spiritual reasons? Or is responsible and respectful resource use the sticking point?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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Closing peaks for religious and spiritual reasons, while within their rights, is a big crock of sh#t.
I was invited to climb a "sacred" Navajo peak once, on the reservation in northern New Mexico. We never even got close to the summit because we spent the entire day picking up garbage.
This "sacred" peak was littered with thousands of empty beer cans, strewn all over the approach trail to the peak. These cans were thrown there from the Navajo themselves.
We spent the entire day filling large garbage bags with empty beer cans, and trying to clean up after those drunks.
Maybe something is lost in the translation, but "sacred" to me means something different than dumping your garbage all over the place.
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Q75
Trad climber
Shiprock, NM
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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As far as I know, the only ones that are strictly prohibited and enforced are the spires and buttes located in Monument Valley and also Spider Rock, which is in Canyon de Chelly, which is also a National Park.
As far as I can say, all others are GAME just so you're with a tribal member. I climb on the reservation and will continue to do so til I'm either caught, chased away or imprisoned but I think the latter is highly unlikely.
What can I say, coming to the reservation just to climb is an adventure and will always be an adventure.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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I wonder what the market would bear in terms of 'peak fees'. I would prolly
pay $250-300 for Shiprock. I'd prolly go $500 for Spider. You couldn't
pay me to climb Totem Pole. It'd fall over for sure if I got on it.
Same reason I feely uneasy going into those cathedrals in Europe.
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Q75
Trad climber
Shiprock, NM
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:21am PT
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Here's a video that was put together by the last guests I had accompanied. The spires climbed in this video are Cleopatra's Needle, Venus Needle, Chinle Spire, Angel's Wing Spire and Ship Rock. The one that wasn't captured was the Navajo Spire, in which the photographer/videographer was climbing that day. Enjoy!
http://vimeo.com/22749387
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:10am PT
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Nice video.
That string of vintage bolt shots starting at the 2:46 mark is pretty wild. Need to link that to the Wayback-Bolt thread.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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Very cool vid!
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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Bandito bolts. Lots of 'em no less.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 23, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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Shiprock, last weekend. With its own summit plume.
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Rcklzrd
Trad climber
San Juan Capistrano
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Feb 23, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
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Flying up from Phoenix to Durango on Mesa Airlines Turbo Prop you can see it pretty good, even on a cloudy day.
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AKTrad
Mountain climber
AK
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Feb 24, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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Spring break, March 18-20, 1962 (or was it 1961? I'm getting old) my friends Milt Hokanson,Dave Wood and I loaded my little Jeep and drove from Salt Lake City to Shiprock, NM. I had read Jack Kerouac's "On the Road", and road trips were in my blood. We checked in with the Navajo Tribal Police in Shiprock and left our names and contact information. They were kind and helpful, wished us well, and we headed to the base of the rock in the dark. A few hundred yards short of the campsite I dropped the Jeep into a steep ditch onto its side. With the gas leaking out, we three lifted it back upright and continued on. I don't know how we did it, but I remember it was a super pain, with lots of digging and lots of pushing. I must have been stronger then; and we had Wood, nicknamed "The Logger" with us.
Early the next morning we climbed up in the dark and surmounted the initial overhang in the cave at the start of the climb. I did much of the leading, and I remember being appalled by the quality of the rock after the great quartzite and granite at home. We had the description on a postcard and made good time.
The climbing was fairly vertical, but blocky, so there were a lot of holds and the climbing was fast. We climbed over a notch and found a type of rhyolite, rather than the basalt-like choss we had been climbing
We carried an extra Goldline rope to fix the two 80' rappels; we left it hanging so we could climbing the overhanging water gully on the return trip. This left us two more ropes between the three of us for the summit.
After rappelling down Dave led across the traverse out of the gullies which had a couple of 1/4" bolts for protection. It was winter, but here in the east bowl, the sun warmed us, so we had lunch.
Milt was as strong as an ox, and he did a lot of the belaying. I'm glad I got a photo of him; it may be the only one I have of the hundreds of climbs we did together as kids.
Steve Roper had climbed the peak the previous fall, and we knew he had done the Horn Pitch free. I remember leading the Horn Pitch to the summit in a strong wind as the sun was sinking.
At the summit there was a little register, we saw the first ascent party's names: David Brower, Raffi Bedayn, John Dyer, and Bestor Robinson. Fred Becky had been bolting a direct route the previous year. We knew Becky from his trips through Salt Lake, but I'm sure we hadn't asked him anything about the climb. He was an old guy then...maybe 38 years old. We were 18 or 19.
During the descent we had to climb up the hanging ropes; I led hand-over-hand, because we didn't have much to tie a prussik with. I remember using parachute cord around little horns for rappel anchors; we knew it would hold 550 lbs, so it should be good. We rappelled most of the climb in the dark, completing the climb in under 18 hours or so. The little white jeep eaded back to Salt Lake in the morning. It was awesome! Dave wood went to medical school and became a psychiatrist, but unfortunately passed away many years ago. Milt Hokanson, the guy I started my climbing career with at age 14 lives in St. George. I count him as one of the most influential people in my life, and likely among the toughest sons of bitches I've ever known. Together we explored the West, floated the Glen Canyon in tiny rafts in 1956, learned to climb and made our first ascent of Lone Peak in 1957, and made our first ascent of the Grand Teton in 1959. It is sheer luck we are still alive.
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adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
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Apr 30, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
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I've got many more but not sure if anyone is interested.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 30, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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Great photos!
Rappel Gully Anchor #1. Pretty sure the small bolts in upper left corner are some the first placed in the USA. Not sure though.
I recall that reading that one the first ascent, that rappel was anchored by pitons--no bolts. The FA party placed just four bolts, one at base of the Double Overhang pitch (which is not done these days) one midway up that pitch, one atop that pitch, and one atop the Horn pitch at that belay. All others were added later.
Great pics of the route and the hardware found up there. Interesting, that pic of the modern shiny bolt; evidently folks are retrobolting to this day. Nice colorful pic of Ormes Rib.
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WhiskeyToast
Social climber
Hawaii
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Apr 30, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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Great shots. Keep them coming.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 30, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
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Pretty sure the small bolts in upper left corner are some the first placed in the USA. Not sure though
yeah, big moment.
they likely practiced on i-rock first.
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