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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Nice. One time a friend and I did a trip down the OR coast. We pull up to a spot with a couple guys out. Firing. We suited up and gingerly paddled out, nervous about being so deep into enemy territory, with our cali license tags and whimpy 4/3s and all that. The guys were nice as he11, hooting us into waves and telling us about their killer (and frigid) spots! So fun.
Most spots if you lay low and wait for the subtle invatation to take a wave there are no problems. But some are just off limits. No one will say a word, but it is impossible to get a wave.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Largo - GREAT CALL, BRA!!!!!!
OH, MAN... THAT WAS HUGE.. JUST KEEPS BUILDING, AND BUILDING!!!!
Insane!!!!!!
One thought I had while watching:
I wonder if there is a way to calculate the mass of air/spray being pushed out the end of that monster barrel at the initial crash of the beast of a wave?
Some equation for a cone of swerling air being constantly pushed out the open end of the cone??
My thought is that given the riders possition in the barrel when the wave is at its crest, then when the wave breaks and starts the torent of air and mist.. I'd think, that with that mass.. one has to feel the push of air/mist for sure!
Also, there are skyscrapers falling over all the time... They are just in the ocean, and they get reformed rather quickly!!! And repeatedly!!!
Thanks John, that was a bad a$$ video!!
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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So I'm siiting on the beach at Hanalei with my bro Donnie (he doesn't surf) we both have long blond hair. It's right after hurricane Iniki and lots of construction workers (like me) have come over to work (and surf!). Needless to say alot of locals are not that happy about "us" being there. So up the beach comes this big,black,jacked-up 4x4 with a bunch of the bruddas in the back. I imediatly reconize Titus and chava( two of the most notorious locals on Kauai- Titus beat my friend Ian up twice!) they pull up and yell " where you from f@#king hoale? I say Mammoth. then chava says, " you like beef you f##king hoale!, I say " no brah , I no like beef, I like chicken!"they all laugh and drive away! a little humilty can go a long way!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Hey,Eastside
I Laughed my ass off due to your post! When I re-turned to the states after living in the south pacific for five years Tom Frost wrote me ( isn’t it a drag being a surfer living in Wyoming?) YES! Just a bit of background for you , I was born in No Cal and grew up in So Cal I surfed before I started Climbing ( age 12) and have surfed all over the world. I started Climbing at 17 my folks had a summer cabin on the eastside at rock creek ( Toms Place ) and I met Doug Robinson he was living in a home made trailer the size of a outhouse on Alex’s land out by the lake. So we went bouldering. Soon after Climbing took over my life! I still go home each year for a few weeks in the summer when the south swell is good and surf Cottons and Trestles. How I ended up living in Wyoming is a long story, But I live only minutes from one of the most challenging crags I have ever climbed. Come out and go climbing with us! My Casa your Casa!
You KooK, Dog.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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hey dogtown, try look.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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That's the spot! The best point break in So Cal... The old spot is long gone. P.O.P. The Cove. And I don’t go back there much.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Cool dogtown- rock creek is just down the street! I love it all the stone , the surf , the snow ! It's hard to take socal sometimes , TRAVEL FOR SURF!!! YEA! Have you been to Chile? Unreal waves and very few crowds but F@#king COLD!! CHEERS Jefe, we had a similar saying at ucsb back in the day- surf all day f@#k all nite! ( you ever see the babes at ucsb- oh mon!!!)
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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I grew up in Torrance, surfed all over So Cal. Was enough of a local not to get hassled even at the Palos Verdes spots.
But I can not stand the crowds anymore. Just not worth my time to fight for waves. So my trips now are to places with at least some space. Costa Rica is a good place to learn. And a good place to return to for bigger challenges.
And while they get slagged on in the SF Chron article, I would like to try stand up paddling.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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So, a story from back in the day . I had a friend who’s Dad was a full bird In the Core. His Mother was the hostess to the Western White House under President Nixon ( The Cottons point mansion) you couldn’t surf there if he was home! The beach from state park to the power plant was closed and a Coast Guard Cutter was posted at all times. It was a drag! Except for us! Total glass over head and no one, and I mean no one was out! But me and my Bro’s . The tube we coined the green room.
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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In some old issue of Outside mag, Laird Hamilton said that climbing Rainier was "the scariest" thing he's ever done...
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Mar'
Trad climber
Fanta Se
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Yeah— whenever I see this I get goosebumps and know that surfing doesn't take a backseat to any other discipline. The initial low camera angle is seductive, letting the wave build overhead before the reveal— and the framing IS perfect. The best part is seeing him going back out for more!! Thanks Largo!
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