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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 12, 2017 - 04:28am PT
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Bouldering on Mt. Conness' backside.Lowa Davos, similar to the Lowa Scout, but better for climbing.
Lowa Alpspitzen were my everyday footwear from June '71 until about 1974, when I finally made the switch to the Davos, a very much lighter boot.
The Alpspitzen were used once by one of my in-laws' kids as Frankenstein boots for Halloween.
In '74 Doug Ross convinced me to buy some Klocker boots, the ones pimped by Chouinard. I loved those on Shasta with no crampons. I don't think I ever used them on another peak and don't recall where they were last seen. They were very well-crafted and very light, but stiff as heck where they needed to be.
I recall the Seconds Sales at The North Face on Telegraph, where we would put out a pile of odd boots from Europe that were probably purchased by Doug Tompkins for sale in the original SF location. These older "clunky boots" were popular with Telegraph street guys because they were so darned cheap.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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May 12, 2017 - 05:39am PT
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A message from Walter Cecchinel after that I sent him the photograph of the ED Sup:
La chaussure ED Sup (le summum de la chaussure cuir de l'époque : stop-tout cuir, double laçage et voute plantaire auto-moulante)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 12, 2017 - 07:47am PT
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When I see these old photos I am reminded of the old adage....ignorance is bliss. Surely, if we had known of the advances coming in boot design we would have temporarily suspended our alpine forays and waited for their arrival. Those old boots make wonderful photographs, especially in sepia, but they were clumsy, heavy, stiff and poor fitting.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 12, 2017 - 08:14am PT
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but they were clumsy, heavy, stiff and poor fitting.
Unless they were easier to climb in, flexible in the right ways, and more comfortable than any of the new offerings...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 12, 2017 - 08:52am PT
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^^^^ HEAR, HEAR! I loved my Galibiers! Used to slab climb at Peshastin in my Hivernales! :-)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 14, 2017 - 04:03pm PT
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Jim will never change his attitude about new gear vs. old gear.
He is "hidebound."
Cheers to ya, Jim.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 14, 2017 - 08:22pm PT
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Jim, love my Nepal Evos, but game to hear your take on your favorite mountain boot these days...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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May 15, 2017 - 07:59am PT
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I loved my Super Guides. Used to go jogging in them. The telltale crackle of the broken shank let people know I was coming. Then I got some Pivetta 8s, which were like fairy slippers - except the blown out stitching on the funky rand made them impossible to resole. Getting that news was like a sucker punch. So I bought some Nike tennie runners.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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To date I have not found any name or date for these Trappeur...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Fabiano's. Not too big and clunky, beautifully made, and quite suitable for rock climbing. Or so it seemed at the time. Who could have imagined the shoes we get to choose from today.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Crazy to think we used to climb 5.10 in heavy leather boots.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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That's one of the reasons 5.10 was considered to be big grade.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Been in my various closets since around 1975. Still unblemished.
My German is in need of review ... does that say "super light"?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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I started using running shoes in the Sierra in about 1974. Never wore "mountain boots" since. Even used crampons on running shoes when crampons were needed.
Don't know whether they still fit or if they ever did.
Just stuck my bare foot in one and they still fit - but they are doomed to antiquity.
Donini, don't remember what I was wearing in the Karakoram back in '75. I'll have to look at my slides - all 75 boxes of them courtesy of National Geographic. Maybe George remembers.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Don....yep, those are Habeler Superlights. George, Jeff, Michael and I all used them on Latok in 78. They used laminated wood as the shank/ lasting board. That was supposed to make them warmer.
If I still had to wear those old leather boots I wouldn't still be alpine climbing. I have size 12 feet anchoring a 150 pound body. Way too old to have 7 pounds of boot/anchors.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Loved my Super Guides
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Jim, What is your favorite mountaineering boot now?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I have the Eiger from Asolo. Very light, climbs great and really fits my foot.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Memories of wearing my heavy-leather Galibier Makalu double-boots (with the felt liners) around the UC Irvine campus for a few days before heading to Alaska…
Serious dorking.
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