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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 27, 2009 - 11:20am PT
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Funny sh#t, Olihphant.
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Olihphant
climber
Somewhere over the rainbow
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Apr 28, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Later and much higher on the route John (JP) Pearson was just minding his business belaying at a hanging station. It was a long mixed aid and free pitch and JP was getting bored. Suddenly he hears ROOOOOOCKK! Looking up he has just enough time to lean back and take the chunk in the face. Instead of a head shot the projectile nearly takes his nose off. His proboscis is broken and mashed flat to his face. He looks like warmed over death. Now the lads still have a day and a half to go to get off and no one wants to contemplate retreat from so high up on the wall. So up they continue. By the time they top out and get to a doctors office in town JP's nose has already set and scabbed over. He looked like a wild man of Borneo. After several days on the wall the other three didn't look or smell much better.To set it properly the doc has to not only re open all the lacerations but rebreak it as well. He either figured that if two days with a pancaked nose didn't kill the big bad wall climber then pain wouldn't be a problem or that they all looked like junkies. What ever the reason the doc gave JP nothing for pain. I don't know who was least prepared or more surprised. JP when the doc grabbed his schnoz with out warning and tweaked it hard, or the doc when JP reacted with a big swing that broke the doc's nose and medicine cabinet. A clear case of equal and opposite reaction.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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Apr 28, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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hee hee!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 28, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
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Yikes!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 28, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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Oli,
I was across the canyon looking through my binoculars when Rosholt knocked off that rock. I heard him yell, that sucker was so big that you could easily see it from the other side of the canyon. It made a huge noise as it broke up below, I must admit that at first I thought that JP had bought it. I was really relieved when I saw him start to move around. Later, at Jennifer's house, hearing the story from the horses mouth made my stomach turn butterflies.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 28, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Oh yeah,
I'm thinking it was Jimmy Newberry, not Scotty Gilbert with those guys on that climb.
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Olihphant
climber
Somewhere over the rainbow
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Apr 28, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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YDPL8S You are correct it was Newberry. I corrected my earlier post. Thanks for the correction.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Bump for our friend Philo. More, the crowd shouted, more!!!!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Hey SteveDub, how ya hangin' with that edjumactin'?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Ah the Black! Only days now.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Hey Stevew, I know this is off topic but I thought I saw you post something about our mutual friend Nigro doing Fitzroy on another thread. Any details?
Being as he's a Black Canyon hardman, sort of on topic.
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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I am so thankful my life's journey lead me through the Black Canyon. The lessons of "giv'r" and "the only way out is up" have set me up well for later life.
Such a wonderful chapter in life.
Cheers y'all.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
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Cheers to you as well sir. Job well done!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2010 - 08:22am PT
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Some of you may know that I have a slew of ascents and related stories from my time in the Black during the 70s and 80s. Having just finished a story about the Nose in Winter for Alpinist 32 I have been feeling nostalgic.
It is hard for me to grasp that it has been nearly 21 years since my last climb there. Back then I was heading into knee replacement surgery and thought I had one more wall route in me. I retired after an electrifying time doing one of the earliest ascents of the Hallucinogen. In all those subsequent years I have been taunted and tempted to return by many friends. Several of them expressed the strong desire to do their first route there with me. My reply that I was "just a brokedown has been" fell on deaf ears. The cajoling continued unabated. Until now that is. My good friend Stephan "the Youth" has convinced my nostalgia addled mind to return for a redux. He was 5 years old when I retired which I find oddly humorous and a little bitter sweet.
So tonight, weather and wildfire permitting, we will head to the Black for a weekend of whatever happens. If my gamy leg cooperates we will go for a yet to be determined route. If, and I realize for me these days it is a big IF, we top out I will post a trip report for you all to laugh at.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Sep 10, 2010 - 08:26am PT
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And laugh WITH, Philo.
Cheers, man. Hope it's a BLAST!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2010 - 11:13am PT
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Anyone know where I can get a travel pack of Depends?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:28am PT
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I find one of these quite comfy and it has good capacity so you don't need
to stop so often to empty it...
Oh, yes, godspeed!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:29am PT
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Probably too late but, Phil, you're my hero, go get one for the old gimps!
What'ya gonna do, Russian? You are the gamest old fart I know, not too long ago we were wondering if you'd ever be able to walk down the street again. Now, back into the bowels....say Hi! to Mr. Newberry - The Postmaster - for me, and remember "it's always desperate in the Black!" :-)
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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MossMan funny you should mention that. There is an emotional similarity to 21 years ago. Hoping to get one more in. Rackin and Packin right now. I will say hello to Mr. "It's always desperate in the Black" for you.
And don't you mean gamiest old fart?
Reilly where can I get one or two of those? he he.
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