Generator Crack is a Cruel Mistress - A Facelift Tale

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 115 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 9, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
Jay,

I should have gone on to say that quite a few of us used it seriously back then, and at least several would unrope it too. Even Tom Davis (Pac Edge Gym co-owner) much later was unroping it in the 1980's.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 9, 2008 - 06:42pm PT
Makes sense, really. Once you're 8' off the ground, your knee is in. 10' above that, your whole body is in...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 10, 2008 - 04:03am PT
Following the same logic, and with a better landing, I used to solo Bad Ass Moma; especially after Schneider mentioned that he had...
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 10, 2008 - 11:41am PT
I foresee a wide crack in my future.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 10, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
Same logic, sure... Badass Momma requires a couple of inversions tho.... :) My friend Blaine popped out of it last year, on lead, while inverted. Fun! I caught him and kept him off the ground tho!

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 10, 2008 - 01:35pm PT
Oh yeah, had a spotter.

Check out the video of Scuffy doing it on Wide Fetish. He's the only person I've seen do it successfully without inverting.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 10, 2008 - 01:41pm PT
I'll check it out, Jay! Actually, I think I have photos of Blaine and I there, from the day he popped out on wide fetish. There may be something my friend Tina took, after Blaine fell.

I need to give WideFetish some love anyhow. Haven't been there in a while.
quartziteflight

climber
Oct 12, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
bump
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
"afoot" or "aknee"?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:03am PT
How about aBump?!?
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Sep 7, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
On the anniversary of this mishap, Facelift Saturday, 2009, a visiting
climber from England got his knee stuck in Generator. As soon as the belay
rope was made tight, while a couple of us started giving physical support
from the tree, his belayer asked others to fetch his camera from his pack.
Stuck climber didn't seem to fully appreciate the ensuing laughter.
He agreed it was funny, though, as soon as he escaped the situation.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 7, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
Some sort of Facelift sacrificial ritual needs to be devised to placate the Generator so it grabs the veterans rather than spooking the neophytes!

With pictures as proof, your friend's mates will be taking the piss out of him for decades! Get them to post. He'll be famous and without crapping his pants...LOL
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Sep 8, 2010 - 09:11am PT
Coooool. I missed this. Same exact thing happened to my wife, who has forsaken all wide since...going on to climb "much harder" bolted routes, heheh.

We got her out by expanding the bottom flake mms with a big cam iirc...




I can't believe the flexi flake at the top is still there!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:32am PT
ah Steve, that's the rub.... but read Holdplease2's observation, and the fact that "Lisa" schooled us in how to do that climb....

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=119587&msg=119615#msg119615
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:44am PT
There's always that georgeous Bullwinkle photo that made it into Stone Nudes a few years back of a girl doing Generator. Evidently the key to not getting your leg stuck is to solo it butt nekkid'.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:47am PT
Perhaps the problem is that overenthusiastic newbies are overcontorting themselves in Generator Crack, trying desperately to get the microscopic bits of trash to be found deep inside, blown there by the wind. Someone should let them know that there may be more effective ways and productive places to get results during the FaceLift.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:54am PT
http://www.stonenudes.com/

many beautiful images there
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 11, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
That looks like some tricky staging! Must be a strap in there somewhere...
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 11, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
scuffy eats that stuff for breakfast, lunch, And possibly dinner with desert, where was he?

i bet jay didn't even tape up,

carry that sun screen and just lube it all up,

legs pop out like a butterball turkey, and remember,

there are only 273 days left to do your christmas shopping.
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Sep 11, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
All these legends and (far as I can tell) not a single video available of the thing actually being climbed successfully?

I'm up for a humiliating go at it during facelift; anyone want to join me?
Messages 81 - 100 of total 115 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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