Discussion Topic |
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nice wide angle snap of El Cap by Shawn:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Middle Cathedral from The Nose, 1987:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Essential artifact when construing a key valley 80's culture,
(I had nothing to do with it, fer real)
The DLFA:
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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The majority of aid climbs in Yosemite Valley seem to be Grade VI climbs, 169 with 65 Grade V climbs.
grades of climbs
I 6
II 19
III 27
IV 21
V 65
VI 169
The time period for which the climbs were put up is given in the table below, for all climbs as well as Grade V and Grade VI climbs.
time period, all, grade V, grade VI
up to 1940, 4, 0, 0
1941 - 1945, 1, 0, 0
1946 - 1950, 7, 0, 0
1951 - 1955, 6, 0, 0
1956 - 1960, 30, 4, 3
1961 - 1965, 51, 10, 8
1967 - 1970, 39, 15, 6
1971 - 1975, 33, 5, 19
1976 - 1980, 27, 1, 19
1981 - 1985, 42, 9, 22
1986 - 1990, 50, 8, 36
1991 - 1995, 22, 4, 17
1996 - 2000, 24, 3, 19
2001 - 2005, 9, 2, 7
This table is also reproduced in the following graph
The peak year of Grade VI First Ascents was period between 1986 and 1990. The decade of the 70s saw a great increase in Grade VI FAs in the Valley, following the Grade V peak in the period between 1967 and 1970.
There is a fall off of aid route productivity since 1990, though some of this fall off is related to the fact that the Reid Big Wall guide was published in 1996 and only partial reports are available since that time.
Here is the list of climbs:
Sunnyside Bench, Waterfall Route 5.7 A3 FA 1935 Dave Brower William Van Voorhis
Grizzly Peak, South Gully 5.5 A1 II FA 1938 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Split Pinnacle, Regular Route 5.7 A2 I FA 1938 Jack Reigelhuth Raffi Bedayan Dick Leonard Muir Dawson
Kat Pinnacle via Tyrolean Traverse 5.7 A1 I FA 1940 Devitt Allen Torcom Bedayan Robin Hansen
West Arrowhead Chimney 5.7 A3 III FA 1941 Torcom Bedayan Fritz Lippmann
Lost Arrow Tip 5.8 C2 5.12b FA 1946 Fritz Lippmann Jack Arnold Anton Nelson Robin Hansen FFA 1984 Dave Schultz
Upper Watkins Pinnacle 5.9 A1 II FA 1947 Al Baxter Ulf Ramm-Ericson Rupert Gates FFA 1961 Joe Oliger Wayne Hildebrand Steve Roper
Higher Cathedral Spire, Steck Route 5.9 A1 FA 1948 Allen Steck Fletcher Hoyt Willima Hoyt
Sentinel Rock, Northeast Bowl 5.8 A1 III FA 1948 John Salathe Anton Nelson
Harris' Hangover 5.7 A3 II FA 1949 Oscar Cook Bill Dunmire Bob Swift
Penny Pinnacle; West Face 5.4 A1 I FA 1950
Pulpit Rock, from the Notch 5.7 A1 I 5.10 FA 1950 FFA 1960 Royal Robbins
Eagle Peak - Southeast Face 5.8 A2 III FA 1952 John Lindberg Ron Hayes
El Cap Tree, Regular Route 5.6 A2 III FA 1952 Allen Steck Will Siri Bill Dunmire Bob Swift
John's Other Chimney 5.4 A1 II FA 1953 John Ohrenschall Marry Ann Corthell
El Capitan, East Ledge Traverse 5.6 A1 II FA 1954 Allen Steck Bill Dunmire Jim Wilson
Middle Cathedral Rock, North Face Traverse 5.8 A3 III FA 1954 Dick Long George Mandatory Jack Davis Bob Skinner
Obscurity Traverse 5.6 A2 III FA 1955 Bill Loughman Don Goodrich
Kat Pinnacle, Northwest Corner 5.7 A2 FA 1956 Mark Powell Don Wilson
Liberty Cap, South Face 5.8 A3 IV FA 1956 Mark Powell Royal Robbins Joe Fitschen
Bear Rock, Bolt Route 5.3 A1 I FA 1957 George Sessions Mike Schuler Wayne Simpson Noel Shirley
Ahwiyah Point Northwest Buttress 5.8 A2 III FA 1957 Wayne Merry Warren Harding
East Arrowhead Buttress, Overhang Route 5.8 A2 III FA 1957 Mark Powell Wayne Merry
Liberty Cap, Southern Buttress 5.7 A3 FA 1957 Mike Loughman Dick Armstrong
Lower Watkins Pinnacle A3 II FA 1957 Mark Powell Herb Swedlund Wally Reed George Sessions Merle Alley
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Buttress 5.8 A4 V FA 1957 Mark Powell Bill Feuerer
Half Dome, Regular Northwest Face 5.9 C1 VI 5.12 FA 1957 Royal Robbins Jerry Gallwas Mike Sherrick FFA 1976 Jim Erickson Art Higbee
Lower Brother, Southeast Face 5.8 A1 III FA 1958 Wally Reed Charles Raymond
Split Pinnacle, East Arete 5.8 A1+ 5.10c FA 1958 Chuck Pratt Krehe Ritter
Penny-Nickle Arete 5.7 A2 III FA 1958 Chuck Pratt George Sessions Krehe Ritter
El Capitan, East Ledges, East Side 5.5 A3 II FA 1958 Henry Kendall Gerry Czamanske
Lower Cathedral Rock, Roof, The 5.7 A3 II FA 1958 Tom Frost Henry Kendall
Nose, The 5.9 C2 VI 5.13b FA 1958 Warren Harding Wayne Merry George Whitmore FFA 1993 Lynn Hill
Washington Column, East Face Route 5.10 A2 V FA 1959 Warren Harding Glen Denny Chuck Pratt
Lower Yosemite Falls, West Side 5.5 A3 II FA 1959 Herb Swedlund Errol Bohannon
Merry Old Ledge 5.9 A3 IV FA 1959 Warren Harding Gerry Czamanske
Middle Cathedral Rock, North Face 5.9 A4 V FA 1959 Chuck Pratt Bob Kamps Steve Roper
Sentinel Rock, West Face 5.12b A0 FA 1960 Yvon Chouinard Tom Frost
Camp 4 Tree (Dynamo Hum) 5.5 A1 II FA 1960 Mort Hempel Bob Kamps FFA 1975 Tobin Sorenson John Long
Liberty Cap, West Corner 5.8 A2 FA 1960 Dick McCracken Steve Roper
Pulpit Rock, East Face 5.7 A2 5.10c FA 1960 Dave Rearick Tom Frost FFA 1986 Don Reid Ken Yager
Fifi Buttress 5.8 A3 III FA 1960 Dick McCracken Steve Roper
Inconsolable Buttress, The 5.7 A3 III FA 1960 Mark Powell Beverly Powell Dave Rearick
Mt. Broderick, South Face 5.8 A3 IV FA 1960 Bob Kamps Joe Fitschen Chuck Pratt
Kat Pinnacle, Southwest Corner 5.7 A3+ FA 1960 Yvon Chouinard Tom Frost
Arches Direct 5.8 A4 VI FA 1960 Royal Robbins Joe Fitschen
Camp 4 Terror 5.8 A4 V FA 1960 Bob Kamps Dave Rearick
Nevada Falls, Left Side 5.6 A4 II FA 1960 Royal Robbins Lin Ephraim
Black Wall 5.9 A1 III FA 1961 Glen Denny Al McDonald
El Capitan, East Ledges, West Side 5.6 A2 II FA 1961 Henry Kendall Bill Pope
Nevada Falls, Center Route 5.5 A2 II FA 1961 Bill Amborn Tom Naylor Steve Roper
Higher Cathedral Spire, North Couloir 5.8 A3 IV FA 1961 Dick Long Jim Wilson Ray D'Arcy Wally Reed
Higher Cathedral Spire, Northwest Face 5.8 A3 V FA 1961 Tom Frost Royal Robbins
Swan Slab 5.6 A3 II FA 1961 Joe Oliger Steve Roper
West Corner 5.8 A3 III FA 1961 Bob Kamps Dave Rearick
Little John, Center 5.10d A3- FA 1961 Tom Frost Harry Daley
El Cap Tree Direct 5.9 A4 IV FA 1961 Glen Denny Frank Sacherer
Lunch Ledge Direct (Space Case) 5.8 A4 IV FA 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed FFA 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Space Case (Lunch Ledge Direct) 5.8 A4 IV 5.10c FA 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed FFA 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Salathe Wall 5.9 C2 VI 5.13b FA 1961 Royal Robbins Chuck Pratt Tom Frost FFA 1988 Todd Skinner Paul Piana
Leaning Tower, West Face 5.7 C2F V FA 1961 Warren Harding Glen Denny Al Macdonald
Diving Board - Sunshine Buttress 5.8 A1 III FA 1962 Dick Long Al Macdonald Jim Wilson
Flue, The 5.8 A2 III FA 1962 Warren Harding Bob Kamps FFA 1989 Elliot Robinson
Lower Cathedral Spire, Lower North Face 5.7 A2 IV FA 1962 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz
Quarter Dome; North Face (Pegasus) 5.9 A2 V 5.12 FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard Tom Frost FFA 1980 Max Jones Mark Hudon
Bishop's Balcony 5.5 A3 FA 1962 Frank Sacherer Gary Colliver
Hanging Boulders, The 5.6 A3 III FA 1962 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehernfeucht
Lower Cathedral Spire, Upper North Face 5.9 A3 IV FA 1962 Galen Rowell Al Macdonald
Ribbon Falls, West Buttress 5.8 A3 IV FA 1962 Frank Sacherer Bob Kamps
Sentinel Rock, Direct North Face 5.9 A3 V 5.12a FA 1962 Royal Robbins Tom Frost
Dihedral Wall 5.9 A3+ VI FA 1962 Ed Cooper Jim Baldwin Glen Denny
Bear Rock, Southeast Face 5.4 A4 I FA 1962 Jim Harper Tony Qamar
Koko Ledge, Continuation A4 FA 1962 Glenn Denny Frank Sacherer
Misty Wall 5.11d A0 V FA 1963 Dick McCracken Royal Robbins FFA 1991 Walt Shipley Kevin Fosburg
Rixon's Pinnacle, Direct South Face 5.11d A1 FA 1963 Glen Denny Gary Colliver
Rixon's Pinnacle, Far West 5.11 A1 FA 1963 Royal Robbins Dick McCracken
Hidden Chimney 5.7 A2 IV FA 1963 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehernfeucht
Lost Brother, Northwest Face 5.7 A2 IV 5.10c FA 1963 Al Macdonald Jeff Dozier Dave French Gary Westernof FFA 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
Lower Cathedral Rock, West Face 5.8 A2 III FA 1963 Frank Sacherer Wally Reed
Slabs, The 5.6 A2 II FA 1963 Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehrenfeucht Les Wilson
Bridalveil Falls, East Buttress 5.8 A3 III FA 1963 Royal Robbins TM Herbert
Carbon Wall, The 5.7 A3 III FA 1963 Glen Denny Roger Derryberry
Rappel Chimney, The 5.7 A3 III FA 1963 Wolfgang Heinritz Les Wilson Leif Patterson Andrzej Ehrenfeucht
Ribbon Falls, West Portal 5.8 A3 IV FA 1963 Chris Fredericks Steve Roper
Sentinel Rock, Kor-Denny Route 5.9 A3 V FA 1963 Layton Kor Glen Denny
El Capitan, West Buttress 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1963 Layton Kor Steve Roper
Half Dome, Direct Northwest Face 5.10 A3+ VI 5.13c/d FA 1963 Royal Robbins Dick McCracken FFA 1993 Todd Skinner Paul Piana
Perhaps 5.10d A4 FA 1963 Bob Kamps Andy Lichtman
Upper Yosemite Falls, East Side 5.9 A4 VI FA 1963 Dick McCracken Royal Robbins
Mt. Watkins, South Face 5.11d A0 VI 5.13 FA 1964 Warren Harding Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt FFA Brooke Sandahl Steve Sutton
North America Wall 5.8 A2 VI FA 1964 Tom Frost Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt Royal Robbins
Folly, The, Left Side 5.9 A3 FA 1964 Layton Kor Jim Bridwell
Negative Pinnacle, Left A3 FA 1964 Gary Colliver
Washington Column, South Face 5.8 C1 V FA 1964 Layton Kor Chris Fredericks
Muir Wall 5.9 A2 VI FA 1965 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert
Flying Buttress Direct 5.9 A3 V FA 1965 Chris Fredericks Layton Kor
Gold Wall 5.10 A3 V FA 1965 Layton Kor Tom Fender
Inspiration Buttress 5.8 A3 IV FA 1965 Joe Faint Mike Borghoff
Yosemite Point, Southeast Face (Min-Ne-Ah) 5.9 A3 V FA 1965 Gordon Webster TM Herbert FFA 1990 Scott Cosgrove Walt Shipley
Nevada Falls, Right Side 5.8 A1 II FA 1966 Al Steck Jim Wilson Dick Long
Direct Assistance Route 5.7 A4 IV FA 1966 Layton Kor John Hudson Dick Williams
Midwall 5.9 A4 V FA 1966 Tom Fender Kim Schmitz
Psychedelic Wall 5.8 A4 V FA 1966 Ken Boche Dennis Hennek
Easter Egg, The 5.7 A1 FA 1967 Rob Foster Greg Schaffer
Will-O'-The-Wisp 5.5 A1 II FA 1967 Jim Chamberlain Bob Grow
South Central 5.10a A2 V FA 1967 Jim Bridwell Joe Faint
Bad Wall 5.8 A4 V FA 1967 Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Dinner Ledge Direct 5.7 A4 IV FA 1967 Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Great Slab Route 5.8 A4 V FA 1967 Layton Kor Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Higher Cathedral Rock, East Face Route 5.10 A4 V FA 1967 Jim Bridwell Chris Fredericks
Shadyside Bench 5.8 A1 II FA 1968 Alan Gillespie Bill Nelson
Nickel Pinnacle, East Face 5.8 A2 III FA 1968 Chuck Kroger Kep Stone
Lost Arrow Spire, Direct 5.11 A3 V FA 1968 Warren Harding Pat Callis
Mosstrum, The 5.8 A3 III FA 1968 Bob Bauman Chuck Pratt Bruce Kumph
Firefall Face 5.8 A4 V FA 1968 Galen Rowell Warren Harding
Higher Cathedral Rock, North Face 5.9 A4 V FA 1968 Chuck Pratt Dennis Hennek Yvon Chouinard Bob Kamps
Symphony, The 5.9 A1 FA 1969 Chuck Ostin Tim Fitzgerald
Nevada Falls, Slot Machine, The 5.5 A2 II FA 1969 Scott Baxter Lee Dexter
Half Dome, Northwest Buttress 5.7 A3 IV FA 1969 Andy Embick Bob Jensen
Liberty Cap, Southwest Face 5.10 A3 VI FA 1969 Galen Rowell Joe Faint Warren Harding
West Quarter Dome, North Face 5.8 A3 IV FA 1969 Phil Koch Dave Goeddel
Gobi Wall 5.8 A4 V FA 1969 Chuck Pratt Ken Boche
La Escuela Direct A4 FA 1969 Eric Beck Steve Williams
Tis-sa-ack 5.10 A4 VI FA 1969 Royal Robbins Don Peterson
Triple Direct 5.8 C2 VI FA 1969 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Prow, The 5.6 C2F V FA 1969 Royal Robbins Glen Denny
Teeter Tower 5.7 A1 III FA 1970 Jack Delk Bill Sorenson
Via Sin Aqua 5.10 A2 V FA 1970 Rick Sylvester Bugs McKeith
BHOS Dome 5.8 A3 III FA 1970 Doug Scott TM Herbert Don Lauria Dennis Hennek
Higher Cathedral Rock, Northeast Corner 5.8 A3 V FA 1970 Chuck Pratt Joe Kelsey
Parkline Slab; Direct Route 5.6 A3 III FA 1970 Jerry Anderson Bruce Price John Yates
Renegade, The (Stigma, The) 5.13 A3 FA 1970 Dennis Miller Brian Birmingham FFA 1986 Alan Watts
Stigma, The (The Renegade) 5.13 A3 FA 1970 Dennis Miller Brian Birmingham FFA 1986 Alan Watts
Vain Hope 5.7 A3 V FA 1970 Royal Robbins Kim Schmitz Jim Bridwell
Arcturus 5.7 A4 VI FA 1970 Royal Robbins Dick Dorworth
Half Dome, South Face Route 5.8 A4 VI FA 1970 Warren Harding Galen Rowell
Heart Route, The 5.9 A4 VI FA 1970 Chuck Kroger Scott Davis
In Cold Blood 5.8 A4 V FA 1970 Royal Robbins
Geek Towers, Right Side 5.10a A2 FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Eggplant, The 5.10b A3 FA 1971 Kent Stokes John Svenson FFA 1989 Walt Shipley Xavier Bongard
Fight or Flight (Lower Yosemite Falls, Right Side) 5.7 A3 FA 1971 John Svenson Kent Stokes FFA 1989 Kevin Fosburg Walt Shipley
Lower Yosemite Falls, Right Side (Flight or Fight) 5.7 A3 FA 1971 John Svenson Kent Stokes FFA 1989 Kevin Fosburg Walt Shipley
Wall of Early Morning Light 5.7 A3 VI FA 1971 Warren Harding Dean Cadwell
Watermelon Rind 5.9 A3 V FA 1971 John Svenson Sharon Young Kent Stokes Bob Schneider
Heart Woute (Son of Heart) 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Claude Wreford-Brown
Aquarian Wall 5.9 A4 VI FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Route of All Evil 5.9 A4 V FA 1971 Matt Donohoe Cliff Jennings
Fatal Mistake 5.11a A1 IV FA 1972 Charlie Porter Walter Rosenthal FFA 1975 Dale Bard Werner Braun
Zodiac 5.7 A2 VI 5.13d FA 1972 Charlie Porter FFA 2003 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
Abazaba 5.11c A3 FA 1972 Charlie Porter Walter Rosenthal FFA 1986 Scott Cosgrove Walt Shipley
Keel Haul 5.10 A3 VI FA 1972 Charlie Porter Walter Rosenthal
Nashville Skyline 5.8 A3 V FA 1972 Charlie Porter Gary Bocarde
Coffin Nail A3+ FA 1972 Charlie Porter
Cosmos 5.8 A4 VI FA 1972 Jim Dunn
Magic Mushroom 5.10 A4 VI FA 1972 Hugh Burton Steve Sutton
Sheba A4+ FA 1972 Charlie Porter
Shield, The (Salathe Start) 5.7 C4F VI FA 1972 Charlie Porter Gary Bocarde
Tangerine Trip 5.8 A2 VI FA 1973 Charlie Porter John-Paul de St. Croix
Mescalito 5.8 A3 VI FA 1973 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton Steve Sutton Chris Nelson
Comedy of Folly 5.9 A4 V FA 1973 Rik Rieder
Miscreant Wall 5.9 A4 V FA 1973 Bruce Hawkins Keith Nannery
Eagle Roof A1 FA 1974 Dave Diegleman Bill Price Augie Klein
Horse Chute 5.9 A3 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton
New Dawn 5.8 A3 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt Dennis Hennick Chris Jones
Grape Race 5.9 A5 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Bev Johnson
Excalibur 5.9 A3 VI FA 1975 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton
Pacific Ocean Wall 5.9 A3 VI FA 1975 Jim Bridwell Billy Westbay Jay Fiske Fred East
Lost World 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1975 C. Folsom Dave Anderson Mike Warburton
Electric Ladyland 5.10a A4 VI FA 1975 Gib Lewis Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Mother Earth 5.11c A4 VI FA 1975 George Meyers John Long Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman Ron Kauk
Waterfall Route 5.10b R A4 VI FA 1975 Daryle Teske T. Polk
Eagle's Way 5.8 A3 VI FA 1976 Mark Chapman Mike Graham Jim Orey
Mirage 5.9 A4 VI FA 1976 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz Jim Pettigrew
Lurking Fear 5.7 C2F VI 5.13/A0 FA 1976 Dave Bircheff Jim Pettigrew
Skunk Crack 5.11b A1 FA 1977 Ray Jardine John Lakey
Hockey Night in Canada 5.10 A3 VI FA 1977 Darrell Hatten Bill Stern
Bushido 5.10 A4 VI FA 1977 Jim Bridwell Dale Bard
Dorn Direct (to Shield) 5.9 A4 VI FA 1977 Tony Yaniro Ron Olevsky
New Jersey Turnpike 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1977 Bruce Hawkins Ron Kauk Dale Bard Hugh Burton
Wet Denim Daydream 5.6 C3F V FA 1977 Darrell Hatten Angus Thuermer
Dorn's Crack 5.10c A0 FA 1978 Jack Dorn Jim Beyer Bob Sullivan
Tiger's Paw 5.10a A1 FA 1978 Don Reid Rick Cashner
Yosemite Point Buttress, Czech Route 5.10 A1 VI FA 1978 Jan Porvazik A. Behia
Hook, Line and Sinker 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1978 Mike Munger Angus Thurmer Steve Larson
Bob Locke Memorial Buttress 5.11 A4 VI FA 1978 Jim Bridwell Ron Kauk John Long Kim Schmitz
Iron Hawk 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
Negative Pinnacle, Center A4 FA 1978 Jim Beyer
Never Never Land 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Bruce Hawkins Mark Chapman
Sea of Dreams 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Jim Bridwell Dale Bard Dave Diegelman
Tribal Rite A4 VI FA 1978 Walter Rosenthal Tom Carter Dale Bard
Zenith 5.8 A4 VI FA 1978 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Sunkist 5.9 A5 VI FA 1978 Bill Price Dale Bard
Plume, The A2 FA 1979 Don Reid Chuck Goldmann
Derelict's Diagonal A4 FA 1979 Chuck Goldman Mathew Moore
South Seas 5.8 A4 VI FA 1979 Bill Price Charlie Row Guy Thompson
Born Under A Bad Sign 5.10 A5 VI FA 1979 Bill Price Tim Washick
Jolly Rodger 5.10 A5 VI FA 1979 Charles Cole Steve Grossman
More Balls then Brains A3- FA 1980 Dana Brown
Colony of Slippermen 5.11+ A1 FA 1981 Chris Cantwell Mark Grant
Mad Pilot 5.11b A1 FA 1981 Rob Rohn Peter Croft
Pink Banana 5.10d A1 FA 1981 Chris Cantwell Bruce Morris Mike Hernandez Donald Cantwell FFA 1987 Greg Murphy Nathan Robinson Elliot Robbinson
Sunblast 5.13a A2+ FA 1981 Don Reid Grant Hiskes FFA Dave Schultz
Aurora 5.8 A4 VI FA 1981 Peter Mayfield Greg Child
Bulging Puke 5.9 A4 V FA 1981 Bill Russell Chris Friel
Chinese Water Torture 5.11 A4 VI FA 1981 Karl McConachie Jay Smith
Wings of Steel 5.10+ A4 VI FA 1981 Richard Jensen Mark Smith
Zenyatta Mondatta 5.7 A4 VI FA 1981 Jim Bridwell Peter Mayfield Charlie Row
Pink Pussycat A1 FA 1982 Don Reid Greg Sonagere
Silent Line 5.10c A1 V FA 1982 Rick Cashner Werner Braun
Mischief 5.8 A2 FA 1982 Marshall Ravenscroft Tim Kemple
Higher Aspirations 5.8 A3 V FA 1982 Rik Derrick Steve Bosque
Old A5 A3 FA 1982 Peter Chesko
Unemployment Line 5.9 A3 FA 1982 Alan Bartlett Jim May Steve Gerberding
Squeeze Play 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1982 Mike Corbett Gary Edmondson Rich Albuschkat
Lunar Eclipse 5.7 A4 VI FA 1982 John Barbella Steve Schneider
Pacemaker 5.9 A4 VI FA 1982 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett Murray Barnett Jim Siler
Buried Treasure 5.11a A0 FA 1983 Steve Schneider Rob Oravetz
Rainbow 5.10 A3 V FA 1983 Paul Fida Chris Freel
Die Schweine Von Oben 5.11 A3+ VI FA 1983 Bill Russell Paul Fiola
Arctic Sea 5.10 A4 VI FA 1983 Tom Cosgriff Duane Raleigh
Mideast Crisis 5.8 A4 V FA 1983 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett
Blockbuster 5.11c A1 FA 1984 Don Reid Grant Hiskes Dimitri Barton
Horse Play 5.9 A3 VI FA 1984 Steve Grossman Sue Harrington
Bad to the Bone 5.9+ A4 VI FA 1984 Jay Smith Lidija Painkiher
Queen of Spades 5.9 A4 VI FA 1984 Charles Cole
Real Nose 5.10 A4 VI FA 1984 Charles Cole Steve Grossman
Wyoming Sheep Ranch 5.8 A4 VI FA 1984 Rob Slater John Barbella
Bermuda Dunes 5.11c A4+ VI FA 1984 Steve Schneider John Barbella
Roulette A5 FA 1984 Earl Redfern Tom Bepler
Time Machine A5+ VI FA 1984 Bob Shonerd
Skull Queen 5.8 C2 V FA 1984 Dave Altenburg Chuck Clance Steve Bosque
Liberty Cap, West Buttress 5.10 A3 V FA 1985 Mike Corbett Steve Bosque
Realm of the Flying Monkeys 5.10a A3 VI FA 1985 Steve Bosque Dan McDevitt
Learning to Crawl 5.9 A3+ V FA 1985 Mike Corbett Steve Bosque Fritz Fox
Mr. Midwest 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1985 Bill Russell Doug McDonald
Atlantic Ocean Wall 5.9 A4 VI FA 1985 John Middendorf John Barbella
Disco Strangler 5.10 A4 V FA 1985 Earl Redfern Tom Bepler Eric Brand
Dyslexia 5.10d A4 VI FA 1985 Ellie Hawkins
Lost in America 5.10 A4 VI FA 1985 Randy Leavitt Greg Child
Space 5.10 A4 VI FA 1985 Charles Cole
Karma 5.11d A0 V FA 1986 Dave Schultz Ken Yager Jim Campbell
Local Motion 5.11d A1 FA 1986 Doug McDonald Werner Braun
Yosemite Pointless 5.9 A3 V FA 1986 Bob Ost Norman Boles
Same as it Never Was 5.11b A4 VI FA 1986 Jay Smith Karl McConachie Randy Grandstaff
Heading for Oblivion 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1986 Jim Beyer
On the Waterfront 5.9 A5 VI FA 1986 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett Gwen Schneider
Battlescar 5.11d A1 FA 1987 Ed Barry Doug MacDonald
Floating Lama 5.11c A1 FA 1987 Doug McDonald
Ten Days After 5.8 A3 VI FA 1987 John Barbella Eric Brand
Big Chill, The 5.9 A4 VI FA 1987 Jim Bridwell Peter Mayfield Sean Plunkett Steve Bosque
Luminescent Wall 5.10b A4 VI FA 1987 John Barbella Walt Shipley
Native Son 5.9 A4 VI FA 1987 Walt Shipley Troy Johnson
Heartland 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1987 John Barbella Eric Brand
Scorched Earth 5.11 A5 VI FA 1987 Randy Leavitt Rob Slater
Morality Check 5.10 A0 FA 1988 Tucker Tech Pete Takeda
Escape From Freedom 5.11c A1 VI FA 1988 Urmas Franosch Bruce Morris
Old A2 A2 FA 1988 Dana Brown Jeff Perrin
For Your Eyes Only (Octopussy) 5.9 A3 VI FA 1988 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Love Without Anger 5.8 A3 V FA 1988 Steve Bosque Rich Albuschkat
Timbuktu Left 5.10 A3 VI FA 1988 Franco Perlotto
Turkey Shoot 5.9 A3 V FA 1988 Ken Yager Steve Bosque
Horney/Johnson 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1988 Jeff Hornibrook Troy Johnson
Via Sin Liquor 5.9 A4 VI FA 1988 Eric Kohl Alan Humphrey
White Room, The 5.10 A4 VI FA 1988 Sean Plunkett Walt Shipley
Bad Seed 5.9 A4+ VI FA 1988 Bill Russell Troy Johnson
Central Scrutinizer 5.11c A4+ VI FA 1988 Steve Grossman Jay Ladin
Bananarama 5.10a A3 V FA 1989 Rich Albuschkat Steve Bosque Murray Barnett
Flashback 5.8 A3 V FA 1989 Steve Bosque Rich Albuschkat
Dante's Inferno 5.9 A3+ VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl
Toxic Waste Dump 5.8 A3+ VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl
Aqua Vulva (Route 66) 5.10 A4 VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl John Middendorf
Genesis 5.11b A4 VI FA 1989 Doug Englekirk Eric Brand
Jet Stream, The 5.9 A4 VI FA 1989 Sean Plunkett Bill Russell
Kali Yuga, The 5.10 A4 VI FA 1989 Walt Shipley John Middendorf
Promised Land, The 5.10 A4 VI FA 1989 Kevin Fosburg Jeff Hornibrook Troy Johnson
Wheel of Torture 5.7 A4 VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl
Reach for the Sky 5.11 A4+ VI FA 1989 Jim Beyer
High Plains Dripper 5.11 A5 VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl Alan Humphrey
Shadows A5 VI FA 1989 Jim Bridwell Cito Kirkpatrick Charlie Row Billy Westbay
Affliction, The 5.11d R A0 V FA 1990 Walt Shipley Scott Cosgrove
Fantasy Island 5.13b A0 FA 1990 Dave Schultz
Ecstacy of Gold, The 5.10 A3 VI FA 1990 Eric Rassmussen Doug Olmstead
Re-Animator 5.8 A3 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Hole World 5.10 A4 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
Pressure Cooker 5.10 A4 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
Saddam Hussein 5.9 A4 V FA 1990 Eric Brand Stewart Irving
Shortest Straw, The 5.7 A4 VI FA 1990 Rick Lovelace
Highway to Hell 5.9 A5 VI FA 1990 Garbor Berecz Thomas Tivadar
Ice Age 5.9 A5 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
Surgeon General 5.9 A5 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Hole in the Sky 5.10b A3 VI FA 1991 Kevin Fosburg Paul Turecki
Solar Power Arete 5.10a A3+ VI FA 1991 Kevin Fosburg Paul Turecki
Crystal Cyclone A4+ VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Reckless Abandon 5.8 A4+ VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Plastic Surgery Disaster 5.8 A5 VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Winds of Change 5.10 A5 VI FA 1991 Richard Jensen
World of Pain 5.8 A5 VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Chief, The 5.11b A1 V FA 1992 Al Swanson Arthur James Foley III Brian Warshow
Southern Man 5.8 A2 V FA 1992 Francis Ross Rich Albushkat
Virginia 5.7 A3 VI FA 1992 Chuck Clance Steve Bosque
Lost Again 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1992 Eric Kohl
Prism, The 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1992 Urmas Franosch Sean Plunkett
Electric Ocean 5.10 A4 VI FA 1992 Eric Kohl
Jesus Built My Hotrod 5.8 A4 V FA 1992 Eric Kohl Eric Rasmussen
Get Wacked 5.10 A5 VI FA 1992 Eric Kohl
Freaks of Nature 5.11c A0 FA 1993 Mike McGrale Cary Hansen Jeff Snedden
Flight of the Albatross 5.8 A3 VI FA 1993 John Middendorf Will Oxx
Ashes to Ashes A4 V FA 1993 Eric Rasmussen Chris Purnell
Kaos 5.7 A4 VI FA 1993 Steve Gerberding Dave Bengston
Adrift 5.11 A3+ VI FA 1995 Steve Quinlan Paul Pritchard
Reticent Wall 5.7 A5 VI FA 1995 Steve Gerberding Scott Stowe Laurie Stowe
When Hell was in Session 5.9 A5 VI FA 1995 Eric Kohl Pete Takeda
Abstract Expressionist A5 VI FA 1996 Eric Kohl
History of the Future A3 III FA 1997 Bryan Law
Sad State of Afairs, A 5.7 A3 V FA 1997 Eric Rasmussen Mike Zawaski
Continental Drift 5.9 A4 VI FA 1997 Steve Gerberding Kevin Thaw Conrad Anker
Hurricane Jingus 5.9 A4 VI FA 1997 Eric Kohl Bryan Law
Lost in Translation 5.6 A4+ V FA 1997 Chris McNamara Chris Ewing
Sargantana 5.9 A5 VI FA 1997 Pep Mesip Silvia Vidal
Sky is Falling 5.10 A? VI FA 1998 Eric Kohl Bryan Law
El Nino 5.13c A0 VI FA 1998 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
Girdle Traverse 5.10 A4 VI FA 1998 Chris McNamara Mark Melvin
Ned's Excellent Adventure A4 VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Bryan Law
Nightmare on California St. 5.8 A4+ VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Grant Gardner
Disorderly Conduct 5.9 A5 VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Miles Smart Bart Groendycke
Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys 5.9 A5 VI FA 1998 Jim Bridwell Tyson Hausdoerffer Boulos Ayad
It's So Awful PDK+ VI FA 1998 Eric Kohl
Passage to Freedom 5.13c A0 VI FA 1999 Leo Houlding Jose Pereyra
Allied Forces 5.9 A3 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Al Swanson Mark Bowling Odd Roar Wilk
Life on the Dark Side 5.6 A3 IV FA 1999 Bryan Law Ammon McNeely
Summerland 5.8 A3 VI FA 1999 Bryan Law Roger Strong
Every Man for Himself A4 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Scott Stowe Mark Bowling
Gulf Stream 5.9 A4 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Jay Smith
Dark Star 5.10 A5 VI FA 1999 Jim Bridwell Giovani Groaz
Cataclysmic Mega Sheer 5.11d A2 VI FA 2000 Eric Kohl Bryan Law
Laughing at the Void 5.9 A3 V FA 2000 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Escaoe From Tora Bora A2 VI FA 2002 Eric Kohl
Great Disgrace, The 5.9 A3+ VI FA 2002 Jon Blair Jeff Hornibrook Bryan Kay
Persian Gulf 5.9 A3+ V FA 2002 Jon Blair Mark Garbarini
Tora Bora 5.9 A3+ V FA 2002 Josh Thompson Bryan Kay
Wild Apes 5.9 A3 VI FA 2003 Mark Garbarini Jon Blair Bryan Kay
Jose Memorial Variation 5.7 A3+ VI FA 2003 Ammon McNeely Gabe McNeely Austin McNeely
Quo Vadis 5.9 A4+ VI FA 2003 Jacek Czyz
Reign in Blood PDK VI FA 2003 Eric Kohl
Witching Hour PDK VI FA 2003 Eric Kohl
Express Checkout A? VI FA Eric Kohl
Cookie Continuation A0 FA
Lehamite Buttress 5.6 A2 FA
40 oz of Freedom 5.10 A3 V FA
Gold Ribbon 5.10 A3 VI FA
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face 5.9 A3 V FA
Round em' up A3 FA
Delectable Pinnacle, Aid Route A3- FA
Joint Adventure, A 5.9 A3+ IV FA
Old A3 A3+ FA
Shack 5.10 A3+ VI FA Sean Plunkett
Blue Shift 5.11b A4 VI FA Jay Smith
Reason Beyond Insanity 5.7 A4 VI FA Sean Easton Dave Sheldon
Ribbon Falls, East Portal 5.9 A4 V FA
Riptide A4 FA
Slacker's Toil 5.8 A4 VI FA
Soul Shakedown 5.11 A4 VI FA Urmas Franosch Sean Plunkett
Tempest A4 VI FA Jeff Hornibrook Brad Jarret
Tenaya's Terror 5.9 A4 VI FA Mike Corbett Steve Bosque
Vodka Putsch, The 5.10 A4 VI FA Bill Russell Pete Takeda
Liberty Cap, Direct Southwest Face 5.10 A5 V FA
Martyr's Brigade 5.11 A5 VI FA Jim Beyer
Ring of Fire A5 VI FA Richard Jensen Mark Smith
In Justice for All PDK VI FA Eric Kohl
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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That'll take some time to fully enjoy!
Nice work Ed.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
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Great job Ed!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The bar graph is sweet!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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That whole effort is a sure keeper Ed.
You've smashed one way out of the park this time.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Damn! look at the names on this one...
Learning to Crawl 5.9 A3+ V FA 1985 Mike Corbett Steve Bosque Fritz Fox
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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RE:
"That whole effort is a sure keeper Ed.
You've smashed one way out of the park this time. "
yeah,
that graph makes it so clear,
great work Ed.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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it was interesting, let me put a caveat in here, the database has incomplete information regarding the climb "Grade," further, climbs that originally had aid, were put up initially with aid may not have been represented so in the eventual documentation of the FA. So the early aid climbs in the sub Grade V category may be underrepresented as a historical point.
There is still a residual of this, however, and we can see it in the rapid rise of FAs for "all" aid climbs that occurs in the decade from 1955 to 1965, as clean climbing standards rose, the number of aid climb FAs went down. Probably an interesting plot would be to show the frequency of FFAs, which I would expect to be increasing during this same time.
What surprised me the most was my erroneous historical memory that "Big Wall" climbing ended with the Wall of Early Morning Light in 1971. That couldn't be more wrong. The two decades of the 70s and 80s saw the bulk of Grade VI aid FAs, this is the "Big Wall" era and many of the practitioners of that era post here (some of them have foregone their Big Wall habit and resort to Russian Roulette to get their "rap with the reaper" rush, so I've heard).
While we retain the image of the lone wall rat, at home in the "high lonesome," there was a huge activity and there should be many more stories to be told.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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always be fully prepared for what you're getting into when you use the word, 'list' around Ed...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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another interesting conjecture is using Karl's "Peak Oil" argument, that there is really only another 15 years of Grade VI aid climbing left (20-40 climbs) in the Valley, then all that resource would be exhausted...
...get busy all you who want to send!
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Awesome thread!
Hey Ed,
Did you end up doing Lost Arrow Direct?
Prod.
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scuffy b
climber
Elmertown
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The aid-then-free aspect is a bit misleading, Ed.
Since Salathe's big climbs are not on the list, we have the first Grade V going up in 1956.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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still in negotiations with my prospective partner... but if we do this year, it will be soon...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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good catch scuffy! I'll have to look into that and see if I can modify the "mother database" with the correct info... it is not so done in the literature.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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"Probably an interesting plot would be to show the frequency of FFAs, which I would expect to be increasing during this same time."
Yes, that alongside with FA's which were pure free ascents.
...in your spare time, naturally.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Note to Tarbuster:
I just got off the phone with Clance and he was not part of the FA party on Pacemaker, at any time. He did the second ascent with an Ozzie under epic conditions. The drinking bout you witnessed probably just included Bosque, Mike Corbett, Jim Siler and Murray [Murkey] Barnett. There's still a lot of bad blood going around about Murkey and some ripoff scheme he pulled.
Note on Pete Weenis: He used to carry a tube of preparation H in his pocket to astound and disgust tourons with impromptu applications on site.
Be Well,
lars
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