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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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I don't climb unroped, but I think that Barry solos easy stuff that he has wired. Keyt worries about it.
We were at the 2010 Granite Gripper. I was hoping for a aged category that would allow me to take first place just for knowing the difference between the rock and the boulders. No such luck. I met some of Barry's new climbing friends at the end-of-day festivities. They had been to Yosemite, so we talked a bit about Valley routes.
Why is the Enchanted Rock so slick? It is highly textured but slippery.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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I guess we've almost met then. That is, I saw you there but I didn't get to meet and climb with Barry until a couple of weeks later.
Why is the Enchanted Rock so slick? It is highly textured but slippery.
I think Yosemite is slicker! Erock slab is just polished, especially if you were in the Sweat area, which is extremely popular with guide services and sport climbers looking for bolts. Some of the less traveled routes have decent friction. Gilroy's Knuckleduster, for example... perfect friction and features where you need them but the longish runout of easy climbing and need for some gear keep the bolt clipping crowd away.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Mark is an ornery bastard,
Jim you'd be surprised what a pleasant personality Klemens has become.
He's truly wonderful.
Nothing at all like he was in the very early years ......
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richross
Trad climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Mr. Bates
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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awesome piece!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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"You have to have really long arms to climb in Texas."
Every Texan I have ever met claimed to own at least a shotgun or a rifle.
You all remember the theme song from Hugh O'Brian's western, Wyatt Earp?
Sing this when you are run-out and there's no place to hide and the whole town is a-watchin'--
Bar-ry Bates, Bar-ry Bates, brave, courageous and bold,
Long live his fame and long live his glory,
And long may his story be told.
And remember Matt "Dillon" Donahoe? He threatened me with castration if I ever called him that again.
Matt Dillon is kicked back in the marshal's office and Chester hustles in.
"Marshal, you better git yer ass over to the Long Branch!"
Matt smiles and says to Chester, "Hell, Chester, that's where I've been getting it for years."
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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It doesn't look like Barry placed any gear anyway
Yeah, selfish man, last May when we were climbing up at the PSOM slab at Pine Creek, Barry took the rack and started up one of Tai Devore's newer routes (so had not had much traffic yet). Plenty of opportunity for gear but he didnt place anything as the climbing was easy and secure. Got about 50 feet up, about 5 feet from a bolt, hesitated for a minute, and threw a cam in. Then made the next move and popped off when a flakey foothold and handhold crumbled off at the same time. Cam held.
He looked pretty sheepish when I got up to the belay and scolded him "You're carrying the whole damn rack- just place some fu&*ing gear once in a while. That's what it's for!"
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Great thread, nuff said.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Great story, phylp.
But have you ever seen Barry wear a helmet? He owns one, here's a proof
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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"Brave, courageous, and bold like Wyatt, yet not so stupid as some."
sined Royal. T.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Phylp-
It was wildly shocking to me to be-friend another Phyllis this week!!
She is a HS classmate from '66 who came to my notice on Facebook (not the climbing magazine Face Book). We lettered in swimming at good old Merced.
I think it's pretty worthy of the y-files: y me?
"...anything more than one shitty nut was overkill!!!"
http://wwww.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=27778&msg=27804#msg27804
You have to wonder how this Jo biz turned out.
This was Barry-ed in the past. But worth the dig.
Over and out and over again with bolts?
edit- the link failed so go to the topic British translations please?
please.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
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Bump for me to remember to come back and read the whole thing. Good one Mr. Breedlove.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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About the previously posted photo of Barry: It is from around 19seventy2 (sorry my "seven" key isn't working). I ran into Barry quite a bit back then. Barry is climbing on the Monolith in Pinnacles. We were top roping this short very overhanging wall. No one climbed things like this at that time in the Pinnacles. There is a bolted route there now which I believe is rated 11c. My friend Blair and I were messing around on it. I'm not sure why...I believe it was where our rappel line hung. Barry happened by and gave it a whirl. (It was right above the main trail)Two things stand out: How absurd it seemed to my sensibilities at the time that one could climb on a wall so steep--the holds were amazing. There was this one spike like knob about an inch in diameter that protruded so far you would actually grab it like a spike (it eventually broke) and the other was that on such an absurdly overhanging wall Barry tied in with a single bowline around his waist. I always liked Barry. He was quite and humble. One would never guess that he was such an accomplished climber. Of course back then I aspired to one day clcimb as well as him.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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would love to see some of these stories in print...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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For the luvva GOD, don't! My story goes to print, next thing you know I'll be livin' in a VAN down by the RIVER! Again. And eating at the mission. I could be libel. So, just the real cool stuff.
I would like make that love to hear about the FA of Lunatic Fringe. That whole area at Reeds seems to have attracted a great deal of attention in the early seventies. Luke Freeman loved the Fringe but he probably learned that from Werner "no prob" Braun. I saw them playing on it one day.
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Double D
climber
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Man the things Barry climbed in PA's at Castle Rock are beyond inspiring. Truly the master of smooth.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Chappy is that feed the beast at pinnacles?
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Marty,
I'm not sure what the name of this route is. I did it once many years ago and seem to remember it having 4 bolts or so now. It is right above the trail and to the right of the regular Monolith route
Chappy
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Barry was an inspitation Mark. Coming to see you next Fall, get some crunches in.
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