Did Dean Potter free solo the Eiger yesterday?

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jstan

climber
Aug 9, 2008 - 01:47am PT
We thought Rick Sylvester's skiiing off the nose was interesting. Would have been much better had he ridden a snowmobile off. That would have even been constructive. Would have heard cheering all up and down the Valley.
mbb

climber
the slick
Aug 9, 2008 - 02:19am PT
Todd,
it is a choice for sure but Dean loves to climb, and wants to do it all of the time, and in order to do that you either have to be a trust funder or try to get paid to climb. Nevertheless, you have to have produce to make it work, and there is no arguing Dean has done some cutting edge things. Face it, everone is jealous they don't have the talent, balls, or motivation that Dean has to be able to live that lifestyle.
The Delicate Arch thing is in the past and Dean has apologized, in public, on several occasions. Largo's post concerning that issue hits the nail on the head and should be reviewed thoroughly by all you haters out there.
Whoever is bashing on the Eiger ascent should go give it a try before deeming it not press worthy or "spray". My bet is most of you won't even get out of your chair.
You have got to respect anyone who can make a living soloing gigantic teetering piles of snow and choss.
respectfully,
Deenluvr
Standing Strong

Trad climber
almost all the way home
Aug 9, 2008 - 02:22am PT
word. people who gossip about stuff after years are total f*ckin pussies
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Aug 9, 2008 - 02:35am PT
I think, incontrovertably, the answer to the OP is

YES!

and with style!
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Aug 9, 2008 - 02:40am PT
So he'll just be unforgiven!!!

Climbings Dark Lord. MUUU HHAAAA hHHAAAA

So easy to hate.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 9, 2008 - 09:50am PT
I have no idea why I'm posting hear, but, when you think of most things done in the mountains, they recede from attention pretty quickly. Certainly less than 100 people will post in this thread, and less than 1000 people will probably even read this thread, and all the passion will dissolve pretty quickly.

Dean Potter had an idea and he went out and realized it.

That's not totally unusual, but in our climber's "circle" it was bold, given the history of the climb, the real dangers that exist being up on that wall, and then the challenges of flying off of it. I certainly don't pretend to understand why he did it, I am totally amazed that he did.

At any given time there are few that have visions and fewer that make those visions reality. Dean seems to be someone who does, in the realm of this sport he seems to be able to conceive of and execute some pretty bold adventures.

I wouldn't want to encourage him with the worry that someday one of these risks will end unhappily, but given his most recent success, it is certainly worth congratulating him.

Amazing, Mr. Potter! congratulations.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Aug 9, 2008 - 09:54am PT
Hey, Ed, the Eiger ia cool an all, but it's time to hit the road, less talk more driving.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 9, 2008 - 09:59am PT
OK, here's more beta:

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/potter_base_solos_the_eiger/

He didn't solo the whole wall - far from it - but traversed in to climb the final six-hundred-foot headwall. "Only" six hundred feet you say?


Photo by Beat Kammerlander

Well, this last bit just happens to be a 5.12+ free solo - check out how steep the rock is! - and his "safety" was his five-pound BASE jumping 'chute, which he could deploy in theory should he fall!

HOW RAD IS THAT?!

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! NICE SEND, Dean!! They've got it on film, can't wait to see it.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Aug 9, 2008 - 10:06am PT
Pretty cool. I didn't like the whole Delicate Arch thing, but he does definitely push limits.

The big question...is this training for a BASE solo attempt on El Cap?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 9, 2008 - 10:09am PT
just a few words while sitting on the can doing the "morning thing"

I'm in process right now!
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 9, 2008 - 11:19am PT
That is insane! So rad! Carrying a base rig "in case you fall" is like climbing near a farm "in case there is a haystack to fall into." Man my hands are shaking... I can't imagine the sack it took to do that. Crazy!
atchafalaya

climber
Babylon
Aug 9, 2008 - 12:09pm PT
anyone know where to find a topo for Deep blue Sea? I looked but struck out... Thanks
Stainless

Social climber
LA, CA
Aug 9, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
Deep Blue Sea is on the Geneva Spur, which is the right side of the Eiger. It comes nowhere near the summit and is accessed, most likely, by the train tunnel (not altogether unadventurous to get to, btw). So, technically, he didn't free solo the north face of the Eiger. But he did solo a big, steep, hard, long route on somewhat chossy rock with a contingency plan that's about as viable as when Bachar said he could jump and land on the rock behind Father Figure should he have fallen while soloing. Pretty bold and impressive outing in my book, whether a crow gave him the idea or not. Give the man some kudos. Jesus.
captain chaos

climber
Aug 9, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
Pretty wild, something one might have a dream about... or nightmare. In the end its real and downright bad ass- pretty dam cool, is all I can say. My guess is we will see more of this...
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 9, 2008 - 12:58pm PT
Looks like what Dean actually did was way harder and more dangerous than the regular Norwand (although a different animal for sure)

as has been written above, If you're not a trust funder, you have to play some climbing-media games to be a professional climber. Folks might not like the compromise they seem to see in that. If so, it's good to remember not to idealize the trust funders just because they have the luxury not to need the money and to remember that they themselves probably punch some clock or otherwise compromise their time to even have the cash to be a weekend warrior.

Peace

karl
Trippel40

Social climber
CO
Aug 9, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
Wise words, Karl.
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho
Aug 9, 2008 - 09:13pm PT
Does anyone know if Dean previewed the route.

A visionary stunt for sure. Make me wonder what other BASE rig-belayed routes he might be considering. It's fun to see him push some limits.
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 9, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
It looks like the route has some chalk already on it, and I should HOPE he checked the route out first. Just suicide otherwise... not that FreeBASE isn't suicidal enough : /
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal
Aug 9, 2008 - 10:02pm PT
Right on Dean, you're on fire!



..and to the peanut gallery..


-Towers are measured by their shadows, and men of merit by those who are envious of them.


Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 9, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
He's jumped off a bunch of slack lines. That's got to give him a little extra confidence in making a sudden transition from security to "oh Shiiittt...!!!"

Diving off rock would be a whole other level which might be too dicey to practice in advance.

peace

Karl
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