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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Erik, what was our falling out? Women or weed?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Yeah, along with what stich said....nameless. But the dude that was climbing with us and then started hitting on the minor daughter. (None of you on this Forum) Well, yo just call 1-800-Bust-that-Dude. I didn't call I just busted his .......:D
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Sounds like THAT had to happen.
What a Bastage! Some folks are just "Sumini Batches".
I borrowed that from Johhny Dangerously........
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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There was this guy the Colonel climbed with...
They got up to the second pitch of some moderate valley climb when the other guy announced,
"The've moved the cracks!"
then it came up that he hadn't taken his medication that day.
"what do you take,?" asked the Concerned Colonel.
"Thorazine."
They rapped...
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Yobah Dobah Dobah, hop Dop Doo Wop.
Rappin', man.
It happens. POW!
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The Wolf
Trad climber
East SF Bay Area
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MisterE, I think I climbed with your guy or his exact double in Tuolumne back in the day. I have tons of horror stories of bad partners, I 'met' many so called partners via craigslist, and other climbing sites doing partner link ups.
One in particular. Met this guys through some climbing website and because he lived near me we actually drove to TM together (big mistake). This guys tells me he climbs 11's and is willing to lead anything. I think great, maybe he can pull me up some stuff I never had the balls to lead. He starts quizzing me about my gear, I have the usual crap everyone has nothing obscure and nothing out of the ordinary, but he tells me we should climb with his rack, because his is newer and he has EVERYTHING. Fine with me right?
I'm think we should start on something I know well just in case this guy is a smoke blower. We head up to Daff dome for Fingertips 10a/b. It's got about a 30 foot run to the first bolt but the angle is fairly low and it's not that big of a deal. This guy says "I'll lead it", cool I think I can watch and see what's what with this guy. He takes two moves and 6 feet off the ground and says, he's too gripped to do face, he's more of crack guy. OK, I lead the first pitch, he French free's and stands on every bolt. In between he says, "got me" and he lets go and leans back and takes hangdogging (window washers) rests. Which he does the next 2 pitches while he tells me where I should go and what I should do at every move. Now, I'm a very non confrontational guy but I finally yell down at him "Shut the F&*%k up." We make it to the top and he tells me he wants to do something harder, that now he's warmed up.
I'm thinking, you have got to be sh##ting me. I remind him he said he was a crack guy. He says F-yeah man I eat cracks.
I suggest South Crack, nice, easy, classic and beautiful 5.9. He says it's too easy but he's do it if I really wanted to.
At the base of the first pitch he says he wants me to lead the first pitch, because he doesn't like lie backs. So I lead the 5.5 first pitch lie back. He's insistant on bringing his entire rack, even though he is following and I have done the route a dozen times before and have the rack. He wants to climb the variation of the first pitch and half way up. It's 5.7 and he's struggling.
At belay he's keeps going at my encouragement, after all he has a full rack. 25 feet out he's fumbling for pro, stoppers, cams, you name it and it came out and was pushed at the crack. Suddenly I hear a screech and figure he's going air surfing, but no, he's just dropped an assortment of cams and wires and other crap that's he's filled his mouth with as he fumbles for the right piece. As I watch a couple hundred dollars of booty fly into the bushes at the base, I smile.
At the belay ledge of pitch 2, I come up and see the most beautifully set multi directional anchor I have ever seen, All locking biners, shiny runners, brilliantly colored cams. But when I see my partner he is 6 feet away. I politely but with a clearly concerned voice as " what are you tied into?" He looks at his abandoned anchor and says "I guess I forgot to tie in."
I lead the rest of the pitches, refused to go back to the base and help him look for his dropped gear and said if he wants a ride he better get in the truck. We rode silently for 5 hours, I dropped him and never ever forgot him.
Parts 2 thru 200 of my horror shows to follow. Stay tuned for Hypothermia and the Rotten Log, Tied to a bush and Freaked on on Pitch 2, I climb 5.12, but can't do the 4th class approach and more.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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You're nice Wolf.
I could've just left him to die.
That type has a charmed life, anyhow, they exist to make the rest of us suffer(?), grow character(?), or kill them(?).
I dunno.
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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I would just like to say climbing w/ Khanom was the cathartic experience apres my initiation to the first (and only) climbing partner that didn't work out. The climbing, the rain, the ability to actually know & recite the Dao (in the original language no less!), the stupid ticket in Bishop, the gourmet ramen creation... I remember it all most fondly.
Hope our paths cross again. Definitely plotting my escape for 2010 ; )
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tooth
Mountain climber
Guam
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classic shot! Scoping out the route, scratching your
leg straps!
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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I've been desperately looking for a really funny story someone posted a few years back. I can't find it, but I remember the OP describing a situation that he was so pissed off and desperate to escape, that he finally tossed the entire rack off the cliff to force the partners to rappel.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That is so funny, Dingus. I'm glad I clicked on it. Wheels was a good friend and major climbing partner of mine for a little over a decade; we did some new routes in LLC, he went up with me on an Owl roof attempt, even.
Lynn's style was to say the least 'unusual' even in this crowd.
Once in Camp 4. I sat In Walt's van while he was racking up to solo The NA wall. he was faily occupied, had a lot on his mind, I think 'cid was there too. Walt was singing the blues because he had soloed the first nine pitches then bailed, only to realize he had to go back up and renail, he was, 'moody', though up beat. So anyway Wheels furtively slinks by, wireframe glasses askew, feet kicking up a pigpen eque cloud of dust. Walt watches him go, then looks at me and said "Man, your buddy is really tweakin'"
The food thing; Wheels was a tiny little man, I don't know where he put it. Once we made an abortive attempt to free 'Ball and Chain' in Zion. When I went to haul the bag it weighed a ton, Wheels had a six pack of Soda cans in there!
Bruce and I talked about Wheels on a number of occasions. I commented that once I had taken a day climbing trip to City of Rocks from SLC with Wheels and Tom McMillan. Between Wheel's virtual silence, and Tom's exuburant loquaciousness, it was kind of like being with one regular person.
Climbing relationships have their ups and downs, but I miss those days.
RIP, Bruce, Wheels, Walt.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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This one guy had a gear fixation...
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Sometimes I get the feeling that I've already told these stories on rec.climbing, but...
I once picked up a partner in the Arking Plot. My first suspicion arose when he wore his EBs on the wrong foot, because the toes were too worn out to wear them the right way.
We went up on Greasy but Groovy on the Arches Apron. I think we were two pitches up. He led out. Didn't quite make it to the first bolt, slipped and began a 50' factor two fall onto the 2x 1/4" belay.
He tumbled past me. As he came on the rope, I let slip. No injuries other than scrapes & bruises.
That was the end of climbing that day.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Thanks for the Brutus classic.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Once upon a time, in Salt Lake City, I was late to meet my wife for our aerobics ( I will tolerate no shˆt for this, it was after all, the eighties) class. I was almost out the door, I had my hand on the knob, when there was a knock from the other side.
There was Wheels.
Let's just say Lynn's lips never sunk ships. I was anxious to get going, but I knew that he had something on his mind..
"come on in, but I gotta get going..."
"well," he said looking at his foot and adjusting his bent, wire framed, glasses.
"yes?"
"I turn thirty today." he confided.
I field a visceral shift. I needed to be nowhere but right where I was.
"Happy birthday!" I said.
On a multiple student budget we had little in the flat in the way of party supplies. But I did have a care package my mom and my brother's family had sent from their recent trip to Hawaii; a can of Macadamia nuts and a mini bottle of some awful macadamia liquor.
"Here's to you, lynn!" we each did a shot. Then we sat and ate the nuts. It was kind of very cool. 26 yrs ago! not much later he went off to where he lived with his brother ( who I hope remembered the significance of the day) i got to aerobics class as Michele was leaving, she and her friends laughed when I told them the story and drank a toas to Lynn from the drinking fountain.
This was inspired by Brutus' story.
Given the thread title I gotta say, Don't get me wrong on this; my climbing partnership with Wheels always worked out, (DNB-5hrs CTC, Hotline, Astroman, other things I am forgetting...) but most times he was as idiosyncratic a partner as I am.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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What did you expect?
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Apr 21, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS A FAILURE TO COMMUNICATE! Bump
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R.B.
climber
..
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Apr 22, 2010 - 12:07am PT
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MisterE
Are you sure he took a crap? because it sounded like the guy still had a turd up his a$$!
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Apr 22, 2010 - 01:21am PT
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Bappen and Patten
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!