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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 16, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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La Sprtiva Tao
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 16, 2006 - 11:50am PT
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John, I think that shoe you posted needs to be tested on Irish rock. If you send me a pair I'll be glad to test them.
Oh yeah, size 40 (Euro) or 8 (American) should do.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 16, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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It already has been tested on Irish rock! Nice try though.....peace, jb
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roy
Social climber
New Zealand -> Santa Barbara
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:35pm PT
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Hi,
For the first ten years it was hiking boots or sneakers, due to student poverty.
Then I heard about a guy selling climbing soles out of his garage in Burbank. I went around a bought some soles. It was a new business, some name like 5.10. Still being a student I resoled my sneakers with his rubber and that kept me going for another 10 years (I didn't get out much).
A nice comfy high top Scarpa was my first real shoe - very comfortable. Half a dozen resoles kept that one going for about 10 years. Now I have Sportiva Megas, but to stop them from severing my archiles I cut slits through the band around the heel. High tops again; the key to ankle scraping wide cracks and all day routes. There's nothing like this on the market now so I'll keep begging the rubber room to plaster another sole on the decaying uppers.
Cheers,
Roy
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:39pm PT
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fattrad, you're right it's been so long since I bought a pair of climbing shoes that I may be size 41 or 42. Can't remember
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Feb 16, 2006 - 03:35pm PT
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So John, I want to go climb all the 5.12 the thin edging routes at Courtwright and Dome Rock. What have you got for my size 7 EEEE feet? Anything that will work as well as Black Toa's did?
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ikellen
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
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Mad Rock Phoenix - Loved em, even lasted decently well for me. Good edge, smear, hook. Still use them in the gym occasionally
Sportiva Cobras - Great Sport/Bouldering, not very stiff so they made cracks hard, but a great face climbing shoe.
Montrail Cruisers - Horrible, or maybe I just sized them wrong. I guess they were ok in big cracks, but any foothold smaller than a huge block was impossible with these. Returned em after two sessions.
Mad Rock Locos - Really only good for overhanging pockets and buckets. Too down turned for anything less than overhanging. Extremely tight fit. Returned them.
Five Ten Moccasyns - Excellent for everything but severly overhanging. Not a good long route shoe as performance drops significantly if you size them up. Excellent for face and thin cracks. Still use em.
Sportiva Tradmaster - Excellent Long route and crack climber, ok to good for face. Very comfy, and warmer than most climbing shoes due to liner.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:03am PT
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shortimer - Wow! I'd have to say the Spectre (see above photo). EEEE width! Tough foot to fit! I dunno - Croft digs 'em, he's got some wide feet! The only other choice is the Aztec - it'll fit the wide foot better but won't quite have the edge power of the Spectre. Try 'em out - who knows, they could be the ticket...
Cheers, jb
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:10am PT
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John, where do you get them? the web site says REI in Berkeley but they didn't have any the last time I stopped in (a couple of months ago).
I was trying to get Gary Mekan to make me a pair of shoes, but I think time has run out on that option.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Feb 17, 2006 - 11:41am PT
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First pair were "PA" and "RR". I wear Sportiva Trad-master for almost every type of climbing now.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
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Bob, tell me what you like about the trad-masters. And don't like.
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BeBe
Sport climber
Phoenix
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:21pm PT
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Sportiva Tradmaster.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:26pm PT
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Ed Hartouni! Yo Marmot in Berkeley has them!!! Check it out...they're sweet!
cheers, jb
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:48pm PT
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Rob...there not much I don't like about them. They fit my feet well, are great for long routes, smear and edge fairly well and I can wear them all day without too much pain.
I also think most shoes today are overrated and over priced. Look how hard people climbed in RD's ( John Gill & John Stannard) and other sub-standard shoes back in the 60's and 70's.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
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You'll climb better if your feet are comfortable...heh heh, jb
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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Acopa question:
Will the Acopas be making an appearance in the Mountain Shop anytime soon? This would be quite nice.
-Kate.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:51pm PT
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Holdplease2 - we're trying to convince them! Hello Mountain Shop...did you hear Kate?
I wonder if the Mountain Shop checks out supertopo???? In the meantime, you can always try 'em via online ordering - if ya' don't dig 'em, ya' don't have to pay!
Cheers, jb
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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Bachar wrote: You'll climb better if your feet are comfortable...heh heh, jb
Too bad we didn't figure that out in the 70's. Fecking eb's.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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Is this the real bob D'antonio? Wow... much props bro, long time...yeah really! I put on an old pair of EB's a couple weeks ago to see how they felt. NO MATTER what SHOE you TRY on TODAY, it doesn't even come close to that kind of pain level (the seams in the toe box! ...woah) - I couldn't believe it! I'm sure you remember hiking to the base, climbing the route, and doing the descent IN THESE THINGS! Unimaginable now days...
Anyway, if you're anywhere as strong as you used to be, you're probably still crankin' pretty hard (assuming you are the REAL bob d'antonio!!) heh heh, jb
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 17, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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He's the real bob d'antonio John.
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