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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 16, 2015 - 01:34pm PT
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... Chase and Cruise also swung leads on, and did, a no-falls ascent of The Bachar Yerian, last summer (2014).
Honestly, a no-falls ascents of the B-Y isn't that noteworthy. Well, not as noteworthy as the ascents with falls!
(And no, I'm not saying that it ain't proud!!! ;-)
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 16, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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thank you for posting your photos Werner. What camera did you use from so afar and having such a good resolution?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 17, 2015 - 05:36am PT
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from the front page of this thread so that it is an easier read as to whats in the campfire
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Dale Bard freed this beast in 1982 in EB's at 5.12d with Harrington.
Does anybody know who's done this thing?
Thanks, JB
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:41pm PT
I'll see if I can dig up an old Epperson photo of it (Chad Shephard climbing?) He's using some pretty unorthodox wide technique. Walt Shipley may have done it (mention of it showed up in another thread.) Schneider? Not many, that's for sure
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
Double face out armbars ( in the photo, I've never been up there, yet)
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
Jay, what in the heck is that?!?
mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
Regarding the brilliantly framed image by Epperson - the cramped frame conveying the climber's predicament perfectly - I understand that what followed immediately was a fall, so the fancy double arm bar is presumably not the way to go.
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
Here goes boys. Have at it!
It was buried deep in the "Homage to Roof Climbing" thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=197687&msg=198522#msg198522
darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
that looks easy
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
Okay, so it was a face in, attempt. Oh well.
As Schneider set to Walt (who had just suggested that very beta (guy never forgot anything he heard, I swear)) one memorable night, on the lodge slide show benches.
"Doubtful!"
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
is that up on the pywiak(sp?) headwall?
if so, i heard that was just a pose for a shoot as opposed to an effective technique for an ascent (let's be honest, lots of the climbing photos out there are either posed or re-enactment poses for photos).
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
looks casual.
lemon_boy
climber
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
i have actually used the 'double chickenwing' technique on several overhanging (and quite a few not-overhanging) routes, and it actually works pretty good. you set one wing, and then shuffle the other a small bit, slowly working them back and forth. in particular, it is pretty good in flares as they can conform to your arm dimensions a bit better than parallel cracks.
The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
That double armlock sh#t is the same way the crux of The Lizard King is done, only that's 11c. Only time I've ever had to do it...
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
I'll send Shanti.
I did no dble armbars on Lizard King, but maybe I should have-Mebbe on New Maps of Hell, too!
Walleye
climber
Under the dwarf maples near The Same Mansion
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:37pm PT
Oh yeah, that looks extra fun....
Bovine
Trad climber
USA
Jul 10, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
If Chad did not get it clean on that go in the photo, What about his partner that day, Sean Kriletich? I can't remember if either one of them sent...
The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
Jul 10, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
Jaybro -
Only twisted f#ks do that route- dble arm locks or whatever.
tr4
climber
Jah Meadows,ynp,ca
Jul 10, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
Yeah I do remember in 2002 or 03 those guys going up there, Chad and Sean. I think Oliver the beast from Canada went up a few years ago too.
Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jul 10, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
yeah, that thing looks light - uh huh...
(holy sh*t)
bob
climber
Jul 11, 2008 - 10:38am PT
Nope, no send for the boys in 2003. Looked hard as I stared up at them from below nursing my monstrous hangover. Bad enough that I still remember it. Looks quite engaging for sure. Definitely no problem for folks to take the whippers thats for sure. Sounds like a fixed nut was the lucky piece. Never got up there and tried it myself. Did the approach pitch when doing Soft White Underbelly. No pro! You thinking of getting up there John?
Bob J.
CF
climber
Jul 11, 2008 - 11:42am PT
I worked on this with Vern Clevenger back in the 70's and the crossed arm bars are pretty much the only thing that works as there is no crack in the back. Vern almost got it one day as he had the fist jam but then fell. The approach pitch is pretty run out and a bolt may have fallen out.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 99 in this topic
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jun 17, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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That Chase guy comes from good genetics...What did you expect...?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 17, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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very cool!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 17, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
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That looks WILD!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 17, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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Great sequence Walleye
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overwatch
climber
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Oct 17, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
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Great shots! That looks strenuous. How hard is that traverse before the roof?
I would like to see the shot between the chicken wings and the hand jam.
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overwatch
climber
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Oct 17, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
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Way cool, thanks for adding those shots!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Oct 17, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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Every once and a while Supertopo has some worth while content. This is one of those times. Outstanding!
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 18, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Sweet!!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 29, 2016 - 06:49pm PT
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This is excellent!!! Great thread! Great shots!!!!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 29, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Nice pics, Walleye. Props to those studs that sent that too. Brutal looking.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I doubt it...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I haven't heard anything, but I'm not that connected...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Such a cool looking line. Which traverse is 10d the first or second? How hard is the rest of the climbing except for the crux?
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WBraun
climber
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Insects do it all the time without ropes or any gear.
Gross materialists will all become insects in their next lives after trying this .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 06:46pm PT
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more badassness bump
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