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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 18, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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Hey, Bob. I probably got those in the mid-seventies at some point about the time that Gallenkamps was clearing them out. KP is the real expert on Scats; as I recall he had a truck-load of them suckers. I bought my last ones for $5.00 a pair. They certainly were the stiffest "running shoe" ever designed! Man, I've seen clear pine 2"x4" framing that was softer...
Oh, those aren't rubber rands on those Scats; that there is Shoe Goo smeared over all that split leather. I don't recall any other color than brown but I bet Gallenkamps tried lots of ways to sell those, so there may have been other colors. Anyone?
Back then, we were always searching for cheap ways to get a climbing boot. I remember someone grinding all the tread off their Scats—was that Dimes, too? Graham and I climbed Etude (on Suicide Rock) not too long after we did the FAs on Flower of High Rank. I distinctly recall following Etude with a pair of EBs resoled with some crępe rubber that a cobbler down in Corona del Mar ground smooth for me. That crux was desperately hard in that experiment!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
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The Scats that Charles showed me were dark blue.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 22, 2009 - 01:41am PT
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Yeah, I still have a tape of Silent Running.
Bruce Dern used to frequent West Ridge back in the early 70s. He was an avid runner.
They bought those Kronhofers for the movie at West Ridge.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Apr 22, 2009 - 02:03am PT
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you guys forgot RDs.
Robin Williams used to wear PA's in "Mork and Mindy"
Cassin had some mean light footwear made for him, as well as some heavier boots, i have a pair given to me by Norm Kingsley, they are black, sorry no photo I'm at work still.
Hey Don! I'm sure Phil Warrender would want to say Hello, I'm writing from the harness factory.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Apr 22, 2009 - 02:28am PT
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and, what about the almost Kletter great aid shoe?
Nike Lava dome with 5.10 rubber plus a good dose of plastidip?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Tarbuster,
this thread is way old now , , ,Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 29, 2008
Wow and yaowzzas, After 40+ years and 20 on a bad ankle, the big toe on my altered right foot is wearing out ~ Stiffies like that are what Ive been looking for. are yo small footed? are you selling any of those kicks?
I need a pair in an off size Like 39.5 left & 39 right?
& . . . .My Robbin's Blue suede Yos,boots were the victims of a boiler explosion, that coated everything with asbestos dust, sayonara, old Relics o' mine.
They were way to heavy but i had them perfectly broken in.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2016 - 07:48pm PT
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Sorry, Gnome, I'm not selling any of my stiff boot stash.
None of them are of the size you're looking for anyhow.
I still like fairly stiff shoes, even just for walking.
I can't get very far wearing soft shoes anymore.
Evolve built a pair of shoes for me with a really nice full-length shank.
The shank was made from an excellent material and fairly thin so it didn't hamper sensitivity too much. Edging demons, based on an older model called Bandit. Those would have been perfect for you, but I sold them. I'm not sure whether they are doing custom work any longer, but that would be something you might try.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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GCF, I did the same thing, when I saw others blowing out the toes, I went to the foot vices
I hated these, EBs but then in the late 80s I had them resolved in sticky rubber, I was a la sportiva Mega wearer for years.
Hey now, Tar,
had to ask. Thnx. I'm making do with a rotating bunch of shoes, all second hand. Manly Sportiva's . Because they are board lasted. Also they are a size big; 40s. I put a custom fit orthotic in at least the right shoe, in sportiva's and in both of the Five 10 lace-up Mocasims. I think I'm through stuffing my feet into Anasazi slippers.:~[
I exploded my right heel in 94' was able to dance at my wedding in 97' the Doc had plans to fuse the foot to the ankel. a mid-evil procedure where a bolt is placed diagonally thru the heel
& ankles' joint. I declined and have climbed hard till 2013 when I had my second climbing injury in 40 yrs. Coming back from legdging out has been slow & frustrating.
Bread , carbohydrates, are addictive.
[- - ] I am not bumping just yet, I'm on to this pair but they are a full size to big like my
only the new used usable shoes.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 18, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
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I so wish there was some way to figure out the actual fit?
I'm not going to try, & have not received any response from email, so
to many variables and not enough confidence in the unknown nature of the provider.
also they are a 1/2 size big, (40.5) when the smaller of my feet is more a size 39,
I have sat on these for a few weeks
I hope that someone who needs these gets them
and then resells them when the juvies laugh at them
I'll be waiting My feet are so spent and it has started to take its toll on my knees.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 05:37pm PT
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Resole?
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 07:33pm PT
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I did my first technical climb in Pivetta Muir Trail hiking boots; later I heard that Chuck Pratt actually did some hard routes ( "old" 5.9)in the same shoes. Anyone have more definite information?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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Gnome:
Those blue mega look brand-new!
Keep in mind you will definitely want to resole the front half or third with some real rubber.
Also, probably harder to find, the Kaukulator Dru, more of a brown color, have a MUCH more sophisticated last, but still board lasted.
............................................
I guess I have heard something like that about Pratt, can't say for sure.
I had a pair of those gray Muir Trails. Love them for hiking, wore them on one wall, can't imagine doing hard free moves in them!
Yours all,
TarMelda
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:07pm PT
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Great thread revival!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
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Haan was right bump
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 28, 2019 - 09:04am PT
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Jesus H Christ, Taredandfeatheredbabybuster, you got got more footwear than Imelda Marcos!!
--Walleye
Muir Trails...bought a pair in Fresno in '68 and wore them into the ground.
Yer right that they weren't for real tough moves, even with that Vibram sole.
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