Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
|
Note the happy sheep, gambolling along.
And the back cover has a ringing endorsement.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2009 - 12:24am PT
|
A classic collaboration with Joe Kelsey from Ascent 1974.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
|
The drawing. From the '75 Great Pacific Iron Works (Chouinard Equipment) Catalog:
It was by Richard Stine:
The Story: Malinda Chouinard and I went up to Ojai one Saturday for open studios. She was a high school art teacher then. The only studio I remember was Richard Stine's. We talked with him and Malinda bought that drawing. It's always been a favorite of mine too. I bought his book.
That drawing isn't in the book, but a lot of other Madman drawings are.
[photoid=135604]
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
|
Nice artwork, Doug! Thanks for posting it.
For Tami, a sample of Mr. Smaill's artwork from Gordon's classic Squamish guide.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2009 - 12:44am PT
|
So, Tami, was Anders the Nordic model for Gordie?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2009 - 01:05am PT
|
I had met Gordie in 1975, but was probably only barely on his radar, as a friend of Eric's, and one of the annoying youngsters around. As of then, the date of his guidebook, only one FA/FFA that I'd been on was in it - the FFA (we thought) of Papoose One, with Eric. Gordie attributed it to Eric and Dave V.
Hopefully sometime Tami will see fit to lampoon me in cartoon form, to Tamiflu me. It would be an honour.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2009 - 01:07am PT
|
Squished versus Ouched! LOL
Or perhaps T-Knighted...
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2009 - 01:21am PT
|
am on it
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2009 - 10:50am PT
|
Tami --
My Stine book is copyright 1974, but then it's pretty much handmade, no typesetting anywhere, and held together looselelaf on two of those round steel snap loops, like a binder. Edition of 4000 it says. Printed on fine drawing paper, like pages just pulled out of his notebook.
Interesting that Malinda collects your toons -- good taste. When I was working on the Ice book with Yvon, I modeled for Sheridan to draw a bunch of technique illustrations. Not really cartoons, but like the rock climbing illustrations he did for Robbins' books where besides getting the technique you'd smile that Bridwell was demoing it. Hell, I even got profiled, liebacking. But Yvon wouldn't have anything to do with them. Something about cartoons being not the right tone for the book he had in mind. Wish I knew where those drawings went...
there was DEFINITELY an audience out there in the ethers & lurking in the phlogiston
Over on the Pratt thread, someone with a counter on his photos noticed hundreds of views in between any of our bumps, and thousands overall. This iceberg is mostly silent eyes, it seems. Intriguing, because just the ones above the waterline are more vocal than I've been used to hearing, for decades, giving feedback on my work. One of the reasons I like it here. Besides hangin' with you, of course.
OK, now back to Sheridan. Well, just one more Stine...ok two
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
|
In looking through my collection of old "Off Belay" magazines I found a boring article on "The Pyschology of Climbing" in the Feb. 1973 issue.
However! Sheridan illustrated the article. Here is the best cartoon.
|
|
oldguy
climber
Bronx, NY
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
|
In response to the claim that Sheridan taught Pratt how to climb (or was it the other way around?), Sheridan didn't come on the scene until a long time after Pratt. The real story is that Sheridan exchanged climbing lessons for fishing lessons with Lloyd Price, and as a result both benefited greatly. To go fishing with Sheridan was exactly what one would expect from reading The Curtis Creek Manifesto. Sheridan used to drop by my house on his way to Las Vegas, mostly to show me the large format books on famous artists he had recently acquired and to have a nip or two from the bottle that was a too constant companion. If you ever had the good luck of meeting Sheridan, you might wonder why there wasn't more laughter in people's lives.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
|
This drawing of Norman Clyde from the Rockcraft books is one of my favorites.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
|
I think the cartoon in post #77 is also Norman.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 01:07am PT
|
I didn't know that drawing from Basic Rockcraft was of Norman Clyde - fascinating! Hopefully Clyde approved.
Anderson of course liked to caricature Robbins and Harding. Is there anyone else that he identifiably drew?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 01:23am PT
|
Anders- Check out the totem pole in the Rock Gods on the previous page.
RR,YC, Pratt and I think Batso are in that one!
He seemed to like Royal and Pratt the best.
|
|
Dave Sessions
climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
|
Besides his infamous humor, SA was a highly regarded fisherman. I had the good fortune to have him take me out to some of his secret spots along Cathedral Creek when I was around 10 or 11yrs old. The two of us whisked along in the vanishing light of a Tuolumne summer evening and I struggled to keep up as he hauled really good size trout out of one 'toilet-bowl' size pool after another.....
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
|
Do you happen to recall the patterns that liked best?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 02:16am PT
|
Here is a cute cartoon by John Svenson, from Ascent 1972.
Apparently monkees were to be found in Camp 4 even then.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Roper's 1970 guide says that Anderson participated in two first ascents in Yosemite Valley.
Andy's Inferno (1964, 'and others')
Aunt Fanny's Pantry (1965; Leo Le Bon)
"For some reason this route is very popular."
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Randishi, you noticed some telling details.
The easy (easier) one first: Stine's captions are full of crossed out words. It feels like he left 'em (hold the whiteout) as a sort of zen gesture to the moment. Not perfect; why pretend? Lapse of attention, worthy of a passing smile. Plus, he seems to be calling out the whole notion of new. What's new, really?
A flower for Clyde: it was the Sixties, after all. But that's not the answer. Sheridan is prankish, sure, but there's always something behind it.
I just finished reading the Clyde chapters in Daniel Arnold's Early Days in the Range of Light. What a cool book! And his portrait of Clyde now seems to me the best ever written. "When I think of Clyde in the Sierra he is a surprisingly physical presence; he is there in the holds he touched, the stones he slept on, the waterfalls and birds and flowers he admired."
Here he is repeating Clyde's 1930 FA of what became Norman Clyde Peak, and noticing the most alpine of Sierra flowers: "Clyde was particularly fond of polemonium -- they were his most reliable companions on the high peaks. And the flowers seem to like Clyde, too. Right next door, Middle Palisade hosts healthy bouquets of polemonium here and there, but in high summer Clyde's mountain grows them so thickly the air stiffens with their scent."
The scent is not subtle. Polemonium are related to violets; their scent is ultra-violet. Arnold tunes up to a full rave:
"The skeletons of last years polemonium carpeted the stone, hooking their roots into the most unlikely-looking chinks. Many had a few green fronds growing close to the rock below the dried husks of their other limbs, a first sign of the sun waking them from their winter sleep. Each plant must represent a stroke of luck. I saw one flower perched right on the edge of a cliff and another growing horizontally out of a seam in a block and it was hard to imagine how their seeds found their way in the first place. In a month there would be hanging fields of polemonium on Clyde's mountain..."
The chapter ends with Clyde's ashes being scattered from his summit. Smoke Blanchard carried them up there, accompanied by his son Bob, Nort Benner and Jules Eichorn. I got invited, but was too impatient to go climb something steeper. Daniel Arnold comes back to Clyde's flower:
"If a polemonium seed on the wind can find a thumbnail crack in a block of granite at fourteen thousand feet, I have to think that Clyde's ashes could do the same. To me this means that at least a few of the flowers on Clyde's mountain have little specks of him in their stems and fronds and purple petals. I think this small notion of physical immortality would give Clyde pleasure. His idea of a summit celebration was rolling crumbs to the finches who came to greet him; now his body nourishes the flowers that kept him company on the high peaks."
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!