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Skycutter
Big Wall climber
Hollywood, CA
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Nice post, Michael. That photo of Buhl in your post is my favorite. If I'm not mistaken, it was taken on the same day (or one day later?) than the photo I posted, when he returned to high camp from the summit of Nanga Parbat.
Amazing to look at his face and realize he's 29 years old at the time.
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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Michael Hjorth-
that is the one. he looks cooked!
The other inspiring photo is Hugh Herr on Stage Fright on Cathedral (cheating with those stick legs).
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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T.W.
Sure, how could we forget?
From Greg Childs book, Thin Air:
Whillans strolls along the trail, shielding himself occasionally from the beating sun with a red umbrella.
As he rounds a bend on the path he confronts a gaunt, ash-covered yogi. It is a meeting of the worlds.
They stare at each other for a moment, then the yogi raises his open palm for Whillans to drop a coin into.
'Hmm,' Whillans says. 'Are you on some sort of sponsered walk?'
Whillans then grasps the yogi's hand firmly and shakes it, utterly confounding the Indian.
Whillans, 1981
Michael
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Don Whillans is ofcause a true iconic character.
As a young climber I attended a lecture he gave in Copenhagen. After the public lecture (about Annapurna Southface) there was a small private gathering for the club VIPs (of which I certainly was not).
But I managed to squeeze in. Here Whillans told all the old stories and showed pictures from his youth.
’This is me on the Bonatti Pillar!’ showing himself leading with a flatcap, a shouldersling with 5-6 carabiners and pegs.
Hammer in pocket and rope around his waist.
’It reminds me of the climber we saw on Kullen [”Danish” outcrop in Sweden] on Sunday, with 30 different chocks and friends for a 10 meter route!'
(In fact the route ’Fingerjam’ Chiloe had a picture of on S.T. two years back...)
While staying a week at our chaimans place, he emptied a box of beers (24 bottles) per day, and toured with him around town (and to Kullen) on the passengers seat of his motorbike in midwinter with the same bare chest straight under his coat. Ofcause without helmet.
He gave me a copy of his book. I was proud.
Michael
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Michael is breaking out the good stuff.
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WBraun
climber
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If you look at the sadhu in the above photo as Whillans is approaching you can see he has an ax in his right hand.
The smart ass Whillans was just a few more words away from getting his head chopped off.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, MH, for the pictures of Arne Næss! Very nice.
Was the picture from the 1930s taken at Kolsås, and if so, which route?
The photo of Leif Patterson is from "In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods", which includes many good historical photos.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Mighty,
Kolsås just outside Oslo, yes.
But I am not a local of that crag, and do not know which route, sorry.
M
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Werner - my money was on the bar-brawler Whillans dropping that axe-wielding beanpole like a bad habit. :-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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^^^^^^^^^^ isn't that Roger! ^^^^^^^^^^
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Ouch! channels ihateplastic. Who is that mystery man in the photo?
Edit: The climber is wearing EBs, which suggests the photo was taken in the 1970s, or early 1980s. Was Royal white enough on top at that time?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I am going to guess wild and say it is an older Royal Robbins.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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No, no, Mighty, look at the gear loops on the harness. Stiff plastic. And a small closable chalkbag. No such things in the seventies.
Either the person hasn't worn out his old EB's (unlikely as he looks capable with a powerfull twist of the shoulders) or he has borrowed the hole lot from Ouch!
A visiting euroclimber...?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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So, which icons inform our icons?
heh,heh,heh...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Tarbuster has a fine sense of icony.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Chiloe,
You're such a hold out!
Made the cover and everything.
Well, moving along, I think we need a picture of those guys on top of the Eigerwand after the first ascent.
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Weenis
Trad climber
Tel Aviv
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Hobo Ledge, circa 1980
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!