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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 15, 2012 - 09:19am PT
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Luckily the only 10 people that care that its called a Traditional ascent are on this website, and have no friends.
It's called climbing... it all is.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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Is Beth still climbing?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 15, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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No doubt about it: A red point is still a red point whether or not it's heavily rehearsed first. It's still either a red point or you hung on a piece. Someone else can always come along and do the first on-sight flash. That's a quantum leap in difficult and a great improvement in style. But a red point is still a red point is still a red point.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Repeated on 2018-11-7, after a multiyear effort by Carlo Traversi.
Meltdown. What a ride.
First tried this beautiful line in 2013 and got completely shut down. Couldn’t figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds.
The next year I tried again and solved the crux, a desperate lie back section on gently overhanging granite while smearing on glass. I thought everything would come together quickly after that but I was wrong. It’s one thing to climb through a difficult section, it’s another to be relaxed enough while you’re doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route.
I top roped it clean at the end of 2015, got desperately close on lead, and then proceeded to go to war with the weather through 2016 and 2017.
This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in.
A massive thanks to @marymeck for all the days supporting me in the Valley through some of the coldest times. And my brother @gtraversi for standing in knee deep ice water in underwear in freezing temps to belay when the pool at the base of the route filled up.
Last but not least a huge thanks to @bethrodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.
Photo by @bearcam. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @theboulderfield https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp7OSBhA2Dw/
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/carlo-traversi-repeats-meltdown-5-14c-hardest-crack-in-yosemite-and-the-world/
This was already reported on the other thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/65106/Limits-to-Free-Climbing-in-Yosemite
but I thought this was a better place for it.
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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FMA!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Cool video, Marty!
Looks like a terrific bouldering gym. Traversi appears to be a dedicated, driven man, with a work ethic that is paying off for him.
https://www.theboulderfield.com/
At about 2:18 there is footage of Carlo on Kauk's route, Magic Line.
I didn't see any passages from an ascent of Meltdown?
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Jim Clipper
climber
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From that write up, he sounds like a class act. Admirable putting in that much time and effort. I can't imagine putting up a route that needs a decade to repeat, at least a route on that end of the difficulty spectrum.
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WBraun
climber
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I didn't see any passages from an ascent of Meltdown?
I didn't either.
Probably because hardly anyone here has ever actually seen it in person.
It's pretty well hidden from general populations eyes.
You have to do some scrambling and hiking to get there and it is a very short pitch ......
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Pretty poor quality audio & video, but the footage for Meltdown starts at 3:52:
https://vimeo.com/6530477
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