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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 30, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
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I was a bit too young to hang with Charlie but I saw him often in the C4 lot. You could just smell the success on that man! A god? No, of course not but a man with a HUGE set!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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BUMP!
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couchmaster
climber
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Feb 16, 2015 - 08:22pm PT
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Great thread............thanks for sharing.
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Under Achiever
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Feb 16, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
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Yikes, couch. From dickhead to good thread within a span of minutes. I started this thread as O.D. long ago, then switched to DosXX. Then, I couldn't remember how to log in as DosXX, so I re-registered as the Under guy. No offense taken on the dickhead thing; it's just another day on the Taco. You'll be delighted to know that my actual name is Dick :-)
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Feb 17, 2015 - 06:06am PT
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What are the climbs Charlie Porter did on other formations in the Valley? There is Keel Haul by Ribbon Falls and Nashville Skyline on Quarter Dome. Any others?
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couchmaster
climber
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Feb 17, 2015 - 06:23am PT
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I apologize for that comment Dick. Will go find and change that post to better reflect my thoughts.
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Climbed the Shield in June and was once again blown away by one of Charile's routes!! The headwall pitches were absolutely mind blowing and I kept putting myself in his shoes withe the gear they had at the time. Just looking up past the roof onto the headwall was so intense. To cast off into the unknown must have felt so incredible! My hat is off to one of the all time best climbers in yoemite history!!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Porter on Excalibur, third pitch from the top
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Splendid photograh Blakey!
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2016 - 06:35am PT
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That photo is a real treasure, Blakey. Thanks for posting it on this thread!
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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I wonder how many axes he made. I only saw one other.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2019 - 09:05am PT
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Bump!
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life is a bivouac
Trad climber
Bishop
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May 16, 2019 - 05:59pm PT
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Charlie made a batch of 10 I believe in 1975 for some extra bucks. The shafts were stock from a metal supplier in Salt Lake, as was the chrome-moly for the picks... I recall he had a lot of trouble with the heat treating, warping the blades due to the treatment facility guys not fully understanding the use and importance of a straight blade; some of the blades had lazy curves...
I bought two off of him, the "best and the worst". Subsequently I sold one of them to a climbing buddy, Ken Klis... I think he still owns it and I have mine.
MacInnes' designs were what Porter was emulating... The weight should be in the shaft and one pulls down in the swing stroke for a more secure placement.
We were beating up the ice in Little Cottonwood Canyon with Chouinard's axes and Terrordactyls and later the Lowe Hummingbirds. Our efforts expanded into Provo Canyon where I learned a lot about Ice...
I hope that answers some of your questions.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 16, 2019 - 06:05pm PT
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Man I’m gunna miss ST for this stuff is life🙏
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2019 - 03:42pm PT
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I'm with ya there @BLUEBLOCR
It's kind of funny, this thread. I enjoy writing but I'm almost always disappointed when I go back and read stuff I've written -- it's mostly a bunch of crap. But not this post. I re-read it sometimes just for encouragement.
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