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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:00am PT
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Awesome! DT! It's been a long time man!
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:39am PT
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Hey John I've been good. Your right I haven't made ony of the base camp parties, however I am always glad to hear about them. I just haven't been able to actually get to one in a while.
DW
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:27pm PT
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Love these Canyon Tajo tales, what a great place to climb, always an adventure. I remember the climb up the Throne with Dave E, we ran out of water and were so thirsty on the way back to camp we took a few drinks from some stagnant pools of water trapped in the rocks.
Frericks bought Epperson’s red Toyota truck, I not sure where he got the VW square back, it had dual carbs that he was always tinkering with it to get it to run right.
Started the Pan-Am route with Frericks and Todd (can’t remember his last name), Epperson took a photo of us bivied at the base and it made a Patagonia catalogue for our one and a half seconds of fame. Dave Evans lent me his homemade hammock for the route. Tardbuster drew us a topo from memory (wish I still had it, it was a piece of art, Roy could always draw real well). About three pitches up Frericks decides to bale and raps off leaving Todd and I to continue to the top. First and last time I slept in a hammock, the Maw bivy is slightly slopping and I remember being glad to start climbing the next day.
Patagonia used a few of the Canyon Tajo photos in their catalogues and magazine ads; there was one of Chouinard bouldering a roof crack that we searched for and finally found and there was the top-less photo of Marsha Collins leading Primal Scream.
Moon
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:44pm PT
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Doug is that you? Remember Eppy sandbagging us on some of those classic face route up top. I remember a couple of trips down there in your old Ranchero. That was when you and DE E were rooming together.
Another time Several of us were in Bruce Pottingers VW van driveing along the highway, as we crested a hill two busses were coming one passing the other. We had to bail onto the left shoulder of the road to escape certain death.
Anybody know where Bruce is these days?
DW
ps Doug thanks again for putting us up at your place in Anchorage last year. That really made the trip plan come together. Also don't forget the MT Bike ride we went on.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 18, 2007 - 04:28pm PT
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Hi Dave, yep its me.
The Mexican Buses trying to pull the hills without letting another bus pass them always added a little excitement to the drive.
I don’t think Pottinger ever forgave Tripper Jack and I for “Borrowing” his VW bus from the camp 4 parking lot, so we could climb on Middle. I still have a couple of his T-shirts.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 18, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Per Pottenger,
Man, I ran the full gauntlet trying to find him and get him to post up. Actually got his MOM on the phone and she said she wanted to hear from him too. I sent him a letter with a buck$ inside and asked him to call: it came back about 6 months later.
He's apparently in Bishop, still on Wild Rose, maybe...
It would be a coup to rest that slacker from his hideaway and get him to chime in.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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Guy Andrews
Guy in action, down in CT I think.
BVB at the bivy ledge on Happy Hooker.
I think this must be one of those bandidos, giving a somewhat casual belay at the base of Caught Looking.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 19, 2007 - 01:30am PT
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Dave Tapes...I guess you may not remember me now that you are famous...Michael Paul.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 03:22am PT
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Off White,
Nice shot of Guy, thanks for sharing it.
That roof crack is almost certainly "Body Shop" .10a above Desperado. Guy and Tom Scott did the FA, October 1977. Dan C. and I had climbed up to the roof the previous month.
That's great to see that "Caught Lookin'" (.10a, 12/77) had at least a second ascent. Is that you belaying? I haven't heard of anyone cragging on that formation in the past 20 years!
John S.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:47am PT
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Way cool shots Doug!!!!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 10:04am PT
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Yes, Body Shop it is. I wasn't there for that, but somehow a scruffy 8x10 wound up in the legacy box of photos, Galen Kirkwood's work I presume. The second hand story has it that Werner Landry was behind getting Guy amped up to do that thing. I love the dangling rack of hexes.
Dan Curley took Bob and I down for a high speed bullet trip, a one day jaunt if I recall correctly, and toured us around, including pointing us at Caught Looking. I can't exactly place the date, well, even the year for that matter. That was a fun route, I wonder if that plastic McDonald's Hamburgermeister figurine is still tucked away in the crack?
Same day, BVB finds the no hands rest on Sh#t Or Go Blind
Since I'm in those pictures, I think Dan just picked up my camera and had his way with it.
John, can you ID this route? certainly I've lost track of that info.
Hey Mike, do you recall when Bob and I went down to do the Hooker? Our last stop was your mom's house in Mira Mesa where we mooched your small wireds for the aid pitch, and somehow left one of my EB's in your driveway. Are you in Newport for awhile?
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 11:54am PT
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Mike I most definatly remember you. All good of course. I love the picture of you by the Mexican road sign. As much as everything has changed in this country in the last 25 years, Baja while changing, is much the same as it was back then.
I can't speak to the amount of climbing going on at CT lately, but everytime I pass through there, no one is around.
For all you climbers out there that don't like waiting in line for routes CT is wide open. Not only that but there are thousands of crags untouched by climbers hands in the area. Any one wanting FAs need only explore a bit.
DW
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 01:46pm PT
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Off White,
Nice photo of "Facial Expression".
That left leaning crack seems very familiar, yet I can't place it.
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 01:59pm PT
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I'd venture a guess that the left leaning crack is the first pitch of the Desperado Crack.
DW
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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It's not Desperado.
Curiousity getting the better of me, I pulled my notes. Is that left leaning crack "Caught Lookin'" .10a ?
My notes say that it is a left-leaning hand crack, looks 5.7, but turns out to be flaring and hard to protect. Second pitch is 5.0
The description matches the photo. Since another of your photos placed you there, I'd guess that's it.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
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Here's Dan Curley on FA of "Airliner", on Airport Rock.
I e-mailed with hopes that he will drop in and say hello on this thread.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
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Speaking of Elgar...... The time I went before the trip with Mooney it was Jeff E. and I in his Dodge Lancer (?). It was a low slung road cruiser that he inherited from his grandfather. Jeff was driving and man was he possessed! He thought he was Walker Evans in that baby. For miles that car took high speed rock hits and bottomed out a thousand times. We got hopelessly lost in the dark and bivvied in the car, it was super cold out. In the morning we saw rocks on the horizon but I guess the enthusiasm was wearing out and we headed north. Maybe it was the newly developed oil leak we were worried about. Jeff had about 20 pre-rolled dubies and we had to consume them before the border, throwing them out was out of the question and crossing the border with them was verboten as well. We tried our best and arrived at the check station severely altered. The border crossing went without a hitch and we soon stopped to put more oil in. Jeff opened the trunk and lo and behold there were about 3 more dubies just rolling around in plain view! Whew! They too were gone before we arrived back in Orange County.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
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This is a super inspiring thread!
Thanks to everyone for posting these stories and pics. This is the quality content I revel in. Hope I can make it down there someday...
Cheers!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 19, 2007 - 05:34pm PT
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Yeah Doug I sure do remember that...I sat looking at it all weekend wondering what you were going to do without it...Yep, Newport it is! I had to get 1000 miles from my ex. or I was afraid I was going to take her midnight mining...
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 09:07pm PT
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Watusi/Mike, you say you're in Newport. Is that Newport Beach CA? Seems a bit unlikely but if so It'd be great to connect since I live in Orange County.
DW
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