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Rick L
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Nov 17, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
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It was great to read the stories and see the great photos of Pratt's Crack. It is quite a piece of architecture, lost in a side canyon of the immense Wheeler Crest. Brought back fond memories of an ascent in the summer of 1972. It was, of course, before friends. The crack was too wide for bongs end-wise and I don't think we had tube chocks at the time. I remember finding a small nut on the main wall and a chockstone or two somewhere along the way at a welcome point. It was pretty secure for the most part and a number of good edges for the right foot. Felt like trying to kick-start a Harley for about a half an hour. Head on it looks rather terrifying but it kicks back once you're on it. A fitting memorial to the master of the wide. I can imagine Chuck walking up to it, sticking his left side in and smoothly moving upward,trailing a goldline tied to his waist for his second- having know idea how hard it was going to be. Pretty amazing since he likely climbed it in Pivetta leather hiking boots, which had rands about as sticky as linoleum.
Rick
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 17, 2007 - 01:25pm PT
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"Like trying to kickstart a Harley"!!!
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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ok so I'm a n00b to OW but i did this one and a few others last saturday...
but there's always somewhere to start
i'm sure most ppl here have seen this climb.
posted on RC.com too
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Odub
Trad climber
Cincy, Ohio
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Landgolier... I believe thats Thurmonuclear, no?
Its only one wide move. The rest is fists. I've done it, though I left a piece in the middle/end of the roof that I didn't clean from an earlier attempt. So, technically, it was pinkpoint...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Pink can be Cool....
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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On Binge and Purge at the Supercrack Buttress in Indian Creek Bobbie Bensman said, "I'm ruining a $10,000 boob job." Classic route, and super fun.
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Mimi
climber
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Dec 23, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
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bump for the wide
Struggle! Pete Gallagher offwidthing on the 'Original Route' on N Sixshooter Peak, Utah. Daylight is visible on the other side of the spire. Taken from Ed Webster's superb article, Wingate, Mountain 64, Nov/Dec 78.
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Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
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Dec 23, 2007 - 07:27pm PT
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Bump
426
Jim check your email
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 23, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
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Bump!!! My hands are getting sweaty looking at this.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 23, 2007 - 08:51pm PT
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Did you take this picture with your teeth? Mouthcam, coming soon to a face near you.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 24, 2007 - 08:00pm PT
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Easy there Fella! Save yourself for the real world.....the one full of Big Babies!
From Canyon Country Climbs by Katy Cassidy and Earl Wiggins 1989
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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A couple of historic shots of the Crack of Despair taken by none other than the Master of Disaster himself, John Dill!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jan 12, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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Thanks Steve... Great history there
Wonder what those bolts look like now??
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
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we're gonna find out old man!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
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You planning on a little Despair in the short term there Ed?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
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on The List...
...I'm thinking that the rule is that you can't complain about the age of bolts if that age is less than your own. (But climbing doesn't need no stinkin' rules!)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
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Well, solid as you are on 10a, you must have something to despair about after all. A few mood hangers might be kinda nice!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jan 12, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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You're the man with the vanity plates Eddie!! Your lead!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
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You don't go on routes like that thinking you might fall...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!