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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Yay Gunks.
YAY!
yes parking can be an issue.
yes, the first 1/4 mile of 1 of the 4 (trapps, near trapps, millbrook, and peters kill) cliffs gets a bit crowded with gumbies.
but beyond that 1/4 mile there is PLENTY of good climbing.
just walk.
you can handle an "approach", can't you?
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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A buddy was up there last week.
He said that not only was there no waterfall at Ken's Crack, but that the crack was dry!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Me on Kama Sutra...some upstart named Scott Franklin belaying back in 1982.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Lookit that head of hair. Boy, those were the good ole
days! :-)
(Bob, I'm hair challenged, just like you, pun intended).
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Wormly81
Trad climber
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Mar 25, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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Bump to celebrate March at the Gunks....
The forecast is for a high of 45 degrees, partly cloudy, and a significant wind. Your in the car early.
As you wander down the carraige road the cliffs major features take on whole new perspectives as your view is unencumbered by leaves. At the first belay you throw your feet over the ledge and relax. The sky is perfect blue and the sun feels close; like it has detoured closer to New Paltz just to make your day. If you were to drop a feather, it would flutter straight down as there isnt a breeze to speak of. The long winter of water ice climbing has made you strong and you are flooded with the unbridled optimism that starts another rock season in one of the most sacred of places this world has to offer.
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Harv
Trad climber
Nederland, CO
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Apr 26, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
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I will be returning to the Gunks in September of 2008 for a long awaited visit (27 years). As to unethical, I don't recall what that refered to as chalk was in everyone's bag (and some had the chalk mouse that John Stannard had suggested - chalk in an old sock tip that was tied into a ball). But hight had a definte effect on how one could get out to the bucket on Foops. Richard could do one movw under the roof and it was in his reach, but Kevin and Barbara would have to do a dance including a layback on the back of their thumbs to finally get within reach.
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LittlePinkTricam
Trad climber
Providence, RI
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Apr 26, 2008 - 05:59pm PT
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Despite living in NJ/RI, I've tried very hard to make the Gunks my local crag because, as a young climber, I'm in desperate need of a place with strong ethics and a deep history. As one of my many attempts to get closer to the roots of climbing, I did a recent all-nude ascent of Shockley's Ceiling (the first time I'd done the route). You have to love a location with a history like that...
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Apr 26, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
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LPT - Was that a daylight ascent?
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LittlePinkTricam
Trad climber
Providence, RI
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Apr 27, 2008 - 12:32am PT
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TradIsGood-
It was indeed, on a weekday when very few people were around. I think we only ran into two parties--one before we got off the ground, and one we shared a rap station with at the top.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Apr 27, 2008 - 07:57am PT
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Ah, in the style of the FNA! Excellent. TR worthy.
I saw a TR once of a headlamp ascent of Shockley's. That seemed a little weak - the whole point being that Shockley's is above the hairpin turn where all the cars have to slow down. Hardly matters which climb if it is done covertly.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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There is a great shot of Mr Shockley at his shockleyest in Climbing in North America. My copy is at large. A couple of size sensitive shots of Foops from States of the Art.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Apr 27, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
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Not the Gunks so maybe OT but...
I always loved that image of Bard on Slipstream.
A big dude playing Baryshnikov. The left foot back step and could he put his right foot any higher please ?
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the idle rich
climber
Estes Park, CO
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Apr 28, 2008 - 05:57pm PT
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rgold
I really hate to correct my elders, but there are fewer and fewer of them left so I can't pass up the opportunity. The photo of Coexistence isn't of Barb Devine...it's Spaff Ackerly. (I took the pic from the crux of Star Action) If you're in need of stronger eyeglasses, I think I have an old set that you're welcome to have. Just have to sign the obligatory liability waiver. Better men than you have lost their eyesight looking through these things.
rich
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 29, 2008 - 09:43am PT
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Ditto on that photo of Bard.
One of the better sequence of photos from that time.
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Harv
Trad climber
Nederland, CO
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:29am PT
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Ah, climbing with Fritz. Only once. I was with a new girl friend and we ran into Fritz on the carriage road and he (always having an eye for the girls) suggested we partner up for a climb. He suggested he lead so I gave him my rack which he hardly used. He would use the trees sticking out of the cliff as his saftey points and made every pitch very short so he could look down at the girl between us.
Once, where there was a sharp left traverse in the climb after a straight up section, he tried to place a nut with a long sling to cut down on the rope drag. When I got up to it, the nut almost fell out into my hand. Bottom line, I got to climb with the original discoverer of climbing in the Gunks and still got to retain my girlfriend no matter how much he flirted. LOL
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jstan
climber
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:51am PT
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A point possibly of interest. I still have the original chalk sock. This shows a single pair of worn out socks can give between 100 and 150 years of service inside a chalk bag. It was not knotted however. I used a wire tie from a loaf of Wonder Bread. The tie is also the original.
The day I thought that up was probably one of my better moments.
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horst
Trad climber
Lancaster, PA
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Jul 14, 2008 - 08:38am PT
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I learned to lead climb at the Gunks in the late 70s...modeling after my heroes of that era...Goldstone, Bragg, D'Antonio, et al...the classic outfit of white painter pants and red swami belt. Here's a pic of me (back then, I was the scrawny teenager with a big fro moving hyperactively from one climb to the next) leading Foops in 1981.
Here's to all my Gunks heroes of the 1970s!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 16, 2008 - 04:00pm PT
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Thanks Eric...Quite the group you put me in with. Hope all is well.
Kevin Bein...Skytop...
The Throne
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jstan
climber
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Jul 16, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
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After a good bicycle ride and some wine I see a photo of Kevin. There is no alternative but to think.
I have never met a person who lived so completely in each moment as did Kevin.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Jul 16, 2008 - 09:52pm PT
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Or more accurately...
"The Gunks - Cornerstone of Eastern Traditional Frigging"
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