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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 10, 2007 - 02:43am PT
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I heard a lot of loud excitment from you guys over there when I was falling off Max factor around the corner!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Sep 10, 2007 - 03:00am PT
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I have to put my vote in again for Ten Years After, in the Falls Amphitheater. Beautiful climb! Just climbs incredibly nice.
Gold Rush is pretty sweet too! I enjoyed watching Karl style the hell outta that thing this weekend doing most of the climb using stemming, touching the crack very little. He styled the crux using stemming moves.
It was a good weekend all around with plenty of awesome cracks climbed!
Cheers!
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bob
climber
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Sep 10, 2007 - 10:54am PT
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What's the one to the left of the start of the RNWFHalfdome? Looks like a very nice climb and as I recall is 10d. Maybe Bridwell route?
Bob J.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 10, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
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That would be Final Exam, 10D fist.
Not that I'd know, but someday...
(mentioned up thread I think)
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Sep 10, 2007 - 06:41pm PT
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Have to agree with you Mark: "Cramming" at 5.10d is a heck of a lot harder than "Vanishing Point" at 5.10d. But I think "boundary climbs" - those that define the upper end of the 5.10 grade - are always tougher than 5.11a's at the bottom of the 5.11 spectrum after 5.11 has been firmly established.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 10, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
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"Gold Rush is pretty sweet too! I enjoyed watching Karl style the hell outta that thing this weekend doing most of the climb using stemming, touching the crack very little. He styled the crux using stemming moves. "
Unfortunatly, that was the much easier "Gold Dust" but thanks! The Top rope always brings out the best in me
Peace
karl
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Sep 10, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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Thanks for that clarification, Karl.
I'd already formed the impression that you enjoy stemming around
and past cruxes, but stemming Gold Rush seemed a little bit
too magical.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:21pm PT
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how about the first pitch of the 'saber' the old kor route, 'spank the monkey'.
that ones kinda stout??
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
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The old guidebooks have El Matador at 10d.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nicely sculpted!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Nobody has mentioned Lucky Streaks! While a one move wonder no doubt still a great route. The Oz traverse I believe is rated .10d as well.
And The Prow at Paradise Forks might have been .10+ in the very first guide but the current guide (that was first published in the early 90's I believe) calls it .11- and its still not a gimmie at that rating.
Torpedo I believe is .10+ at the Forks. Short but fun.
Loving the crack pictures ITT!!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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I am really surprised to not see the right side of the folly. was this climb wiped out by rock fall? It was one of the classic 10d in my book.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 28, 2008 - 12:44am PT
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Uhhh...marty, it's mentioned in the first and third messages - and I didn't even read beyond the 3rd.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 28, 2008 - 01:25am PT
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Plz excuse my ignorance but...
with all the rock fall, did 'Mr. Natural' on the apron get nuked ?
Not the hardest, what maybe .10b/c ?
But what a beauty!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 28, 2008 - 10:29am PT
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Greg, you are correct, my miss. I actually forgot it was called the good book as well.
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adventureboy
Trad climber
Bellingham,wa
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Jan 28, 2008 - 11:04am PT
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Sentry box in squish eh.... maybe a real man 10d i guess as it qualifies only barely at 12a.
Index though Dr Sniff 10d classic make or break unprotected layback
Sloe Children 10d makes the "Tube" seem tame
Zoom 10d keep your sh#t together
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coward
Trad climber
Boulder, Wyoming
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Jan 28, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
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Crack of Fear at Lumpy Ridge: that second pitch must be every bit of 10d!
Also, Javelin in Cracked Canyon.
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Salathiel
Trad climber
South Beach, FL
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Jan 28, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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What about Mr. Natural? That has to be one of my all time favorite cracks EVA! Especially those rusty trusty bolts at the end.
I liked lazy Bum, but it's a little too short.
my .02
blur
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2008 - 02:32pm PT
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Mr. Natural is still the same. I did it last summer, no rockfall damage. Not .10d though, more 5.9 to a move or two of .10c. One of the best fingercracks I've ever done, and easily the best in the .10 range. If you approach on Apron Jam, might want at least two pieces (or more) in the 4 camalot range. We had one. It was puckering.
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'sup
Trad climber
da ditch
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Jan 28, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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Waverly Wafer 10d/11a? I thought a climb was rated by its hardest move. Seemed like 5.9 hands to a rest in a pod, a rattly finger lock to sustained 10c thin hands.
When Jim, Barry, and Bev put this up in 1970 what did THEY rate it?
"what is this?"
"this is now, now"
"what happened to then?"
"missed it"
"when?"
"just now"
"when will THEN be NOW?"
"soon"
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