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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 11, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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bump
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 11, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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This bears repeating, it is so well written:
Oli/Patrick Oliver:
What I like is the generosity of climbers, true climbers, such as Peter Croft and John Bachar. They would never say they had anything on the Colorado climbers, because they know they don't but also because they know the deeper truths that people are individuals and artists in their own right and come from different backgrounds and different experience. It behooves us all to see into both dark and light and see into the hearts of people and know their very individual gifts. Petty comparisons have only one end: to reduce one person or one group of persons and elevate another, to make precious souls seem of no worth, and for the purpose of some cowardly little ego grandiosity.
When Peter in the early 1990s climbed my 1965 Supremacy Crack, a little tale of my youth, making easy work of it, he didn't tell me or anyone else what a trivial thing it is. He didn't do the climb to prove his superiority. He phoned me and congratulated me on what an achievement it was for its time. He has always had the right perspective, a beautiful soul pure and untainted by the obscene contentions and insecurities of those braying about how superior they or their fellows are to others. Peter also phoned me and told me he finally, after a lot of work, had repeated one of my 1968 boulder problems in Yosemite. He could have kept that a secret, that he had to work at it. He is humble, though. He is honest. When he and I roped up one day and did an old 5.10+ route of mine on Castle Rock, in a slight rain, I watched a master at work. I was perfectly fine recognizing him as my superior, and my superior in a vast way. But he never made me feel such was so. We were comrades, friends on a nice climb on a day when rain fell in bright sunlight.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 20, 2015 - 11:01pm PT
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Can't believe I haven't commented on this thread I will definitely be looking it over closely soon
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 20, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
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I will definitely be looking it over closely soon
Yes, look it over closely, one wants to be very sure of his first Lycra purchase!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 25, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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Amanda!
What up girlfriend?
That is top-notch entertainment and way too funny!
He says, in total deadpan delivery:
I've been prancercising for about 10 years, my results have been off the charts.
Dude has some legs on him, that's for sure.
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Pewf
climber
Gunnison, CO
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Oct 25, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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Hey Roy :) How are you guys?? We're great. I'm just writing books and raising kittens. Bit of climbing here and there. Dragged the family on a grand adventure up their first little desert tower.
Still holding down the fort in Ned? Please say hi to Lisa from us!
(yes, magnificent thighs on the prancer!)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 25, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
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So great to hear from you, Amanda.
Been meaning to drop you a line.
Lisa trained for Pike's Peak this year, and won the women's Masters division!
I took some walks (prancing) on the high tundra, which was rejuvenating to say the least.
Thinking of Ella now!
That brilliant little soul of yours. I bet she's at times precocious and a lot of fun!
Desert tower (even if little) with your chubby hubby and daughter: awesome reportage!
[edit]
Sent an e-mail to your manda.forrest address. Hope that's current.
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Pewf
climber
Gunnison, CO
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Oct 25, 2017 - 06:25pm PT
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Congratulations to you and Lisa both. Sounds like a great summer! Stay in touch, 'kay?
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Oct 26, 2017 - 08:23am PT
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Nice pictures Bob, never saw this thread before. My only Eldo picture, prancing my way up to Art's Spar (note the hexes, vintage rack):
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 26, 2017 - 09:40pm PT
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It really brings back some wonderful days for me seeing these pictures. I began my climbing "career" there, although I wasn't as committed as many because of my involvement in my career choice and school. But seeing the pics of Yellow Spur, Anthill Direct, and Birdwalk always brings back memories.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 26, 2017 - 09:51pm PT
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It behooves us all to see into both dark and light and see into the hearts of people and know their very individual gifts. Petty comparisons have only one end: to reduce one person or one group of persons and elevate another, to make precious souls seem of no worth, and for the purpose of some cowardly little ego grandiosity.
The best thing I have learned on ST. This is the consciousness of the future.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 26, 2017 - 10:37pm PT
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Fred Knapp/ Naked Edge
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 27, 2017 - 08:16am PT
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I also loved the shots on the Green Spur! Too bad the climb doesn't have a better upper section--deteriorates into poor rock. That dihedral pitch is outstanding.
I never qualified to be a Prancer, since I never wore lycra, and didn't wear shorts; too much poison ivy around for my taste.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 27, 2017 - 08:21am PT
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I don't know, Brokedown, I rather like the upper pitches of Green Spur. It has that nifty roof! Love that climb, and used to solo it on a regular basis along with lots of other classics of the grade. But not blindfolded, mind you! Was saving that for later ...
And PEOPLE!
Clicking on this link is an absolute MUST!
A total sendup of what it is to be an Eldo PRANCER:
https://www.facebook.com/awakenwithjp/videos/1903376013011585/
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Pewf
climber
Gunnison, CO
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Oct 27, 2017 - 08:34am PT
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Amanda, from the Wreck.ClimbedOut?
Hey DMT, indeed it is. Long time! How are you?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 27, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
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Tarbuster; there are lots of nice routes over on the West wall: Green Slab Direct; Rewritten; Great Zot; Rebuffat Arete--too many to list here.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oct 27, 2017 - 12:05pm PT
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I'd be prancing (for joy) too if I made it up any of those routes you all been showing. Nice thread!
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