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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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Bump for awesomeness & a question:
I TRed the Remnant, Left last weekend. Seems like it is mostly a lieback, but I was wondering if the start is typically tunneled through when led?
This route seems like it can be done without any OW technique if desired, though the lead would be pretty dangerous for the first 20'-30' or so if done this way (no pro, burly, definitely would deck). Would this be a case where liebacking works, but is really 'cheating' or 'poor form' versus climbing it 'properly' in a more secure or protectable technique?
For example, getting started on the tunnel through seems like it would be a lot harder than underclinging/liebacking until you turn the roof 10' up & 15' over, at which point you can slide inside or just cam a leg in to stand on for assisting the lieback (no pro though, so you could still fall out & deck). However, while neither variation is protectable until about 20' or so up at the hand-stacks+knee-jam section (which my friend liebacked instead), it seems like at least the tunnel-through entry is low and once inside it would be hard to pump out or fall out.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
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I went left side in. No tunneling, no liebacking, not much pro, but not that hard, consissitent with the grade/
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 21, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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When you say tunnel through, do you mean start on the right side and move
to the left? I have done that with no problem. You reach the left side
about ten feet off the ground.
However, the OW start on the left side is just not that bad, not nearly as
bad as it looks. It's really steep, but with really secure arm bars and
chicken wings, and only a few moves before you can get your chest inside.
I've never finished the climb, the crux has always been dripping when I've
been there, but I've gone up and down the start a few times.
There's a big thread on the Left side of the Remnant (formerly known as
Another Country):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=466853&msg=1131104#msg1131104
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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Yeah. What I was imagining was starting on the right where the flake comes down low enough to reach your head in and get started on an armbar or chickenwing, back to the wall (facing out from the cliff), and maybe I could get high enough to throw a left hip in there and lock off to rotate my lower torso in, after which it looks like a reasonable squeeze up and right (facing out, or up and left if looking at the route from outside) to the edge of the flake where you'd continue ascending left-side in until it pinches off. I was thinking this through, but with a TR I was lazy and tried underclinging & liebacking the start until I could wriggle back in after the first roof. This was easy enough but very insecure if I were leading. I feel like I should go back and do it right!
The crux at the smaller roof was more awkward than it appeared from below and took me a little messing around to figure out - a very short set of moves to find a jam to move into an undercling/lieback to step over & turn the side of the roof and get back to jamming in the corner. It wasn't wet when I was there last weekend but there was a good amount of dirt & moss to clean off for the feet to lieback some sections. The top has a nice hand to finger crack.
BTW, Remnant Right was a fun lead and nice for learning to push a #6 C4. I don't see why it doesn't have any stars in the Reid Guide.
Thanks for the link.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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Wyde wednesday style bump
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!