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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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May 11, 2007 - 11:57am PT
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If anyone is gonna do the BY this summer let me know. I'll head up there the next day. A few years ago Platinum Rob went up there in the beginning of the season and climbed the thing. There was no chalk and he had to dance around on those knobs. A day later Stanley went and did it, the holds throughly chalked and the path marked. And then I think another party did it and the route was a white path, relatively speaking.
G Gnome, you're thinking of the same Drew. He's lurking about Berkeley these days getting his doctorate. We went to Smith together not too long ago. That dude has an offensive amount of technigue. A master of the dime edges, that guy can make cents of the loose change, as Largo might say.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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May 11, 2007 - 12:11pm PT
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Ironic that the visionary master Bachar could put up BY, pull off mind blowing soloing feats for years and then almost bite the dust in a car crash!
Don't fear the stone, just make sure to wear your seatbelt and pay attention to the road! :-)
Great thread.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 11, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
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Cars are way more dangerous than climbing...
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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May 11, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
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No sh#t B
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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May 11, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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John, Mike said he downclimbed the whole 2nd pitch once. He has been climbing a lot again and we are getting ready for a good run in the meadows this year. He is still too strong for his own good. It hurts so bad to boulder with him!
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 11, 2007 - 12:58pm PT
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G_Gnome - Maybe the Great Waughzoo could lead us up the thing?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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May 11, 2007 - 01:28pm PT
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Hell John, I have been trying to get led up that thing since you put it up. I always manage to just miss my chance. I don't think either one of us can afford to fall that far any longer. It surely sucks getting older. I'd settle for getting hauled up You Asked for It instead.
Now, how many ascents has Guardians of the Galaxy had? 3? Mad Dog, Bachar, Waugh?
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hazelwould
climber
expat, UK
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May 11, 2007 - 01:40pm PT
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Jeez Louis. I have been reading posts on this sh#t can of a website for several years, never have I posted and never has a post inspired me so much.
I'm now in the UK working in the auto industry, have climbed once in the last 10 months. After reading this post this week, I have decided to forsake all leisure to start seriously climbing again.
Thanks for all the great stories and thanks to Bachar / Yerrian for putting up a route that 20+ years later makes people shake in their boots just hearing about it. You all kick my ass.
rbc II
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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May 11, 2007 - 01:45pm PT
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Lucho's heading to Toulumne next week. He could fire the BY for all you original gangsters.
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bob
climber
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May 11, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
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Nice James! Good idea to go after someone sends. I was lucky enough to be on Shipoopi when Leary was going for the chalked onsight. Jake and I were halfway up ship and got to just kick back and watch one of the more talented climbers I've ever hung with just friggin float. FLOAT Russ Mitrovich was belaying and loving the fact that he was getting the all time tr. I guess Sean went back a year or two later and took the big one. Or, one of the big ones. When i told him I was rebolting Shambles a couple years back(great route) his eyes widened and asked if we could use the ropes to set up a mini traction for it. Since I have no desire to lead the thing.....ever.....I agreed. I'm shameless and most likely worthless to some climbers for doing it this way, but now I can say to all of you who have done it on lead (no matter what prep) YOU HAVE GIFTED MINDS.
Nice job, to all of you.
And for those of you who are going to do it, Good luck, good skill, and don't wear slippers.
Damn, can't wait to get to the Meadows this summer.
Bob J.
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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May 12, 2007 - 02:49pm PT
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to quote jdhedge
"Another example is Just Do It at Smith, from which you will take a 70' fall going to the anchors. "
mabey more like a 20 footer if one of the bolts broke. that thing is fully sport bolted.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 12, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
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"Maybe the second pitch is 10d - Waugh's a little strict sometimes with his ratings... "
Hahaha!! Bachar complaining that someone else's ratings are stiff. I love it!
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2007 - 09:47pm PT
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Palms are sweating boys....be up there either June or August. Thanks for all the stories and beta guys, well see what happens. climbing this route seems like a huge stepping stone in the "heros journey".
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 16, 2007 - 10:39am PT
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I wanna try and do it again too....don't know if I'll be able to. Gotta get real comfy with the knob footwork stuff - that's the real key to feeling relaxed up there. Also gotta get good with the friction bump climbing and some serious dime edging for the third pitch....yikes!!!!!
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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May 16, 2007 - 11:23am PT
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John, you'll be fine! I heard it's only 10d! :)
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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May 16, 2007 - 11:55am PT
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John B,
How many times have you done it?
Do you think anyone will ever solo it?
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 16, 2007 - 01:28pm PT
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I think I've done it three times - once with Yerian, once with Moffatt, and once with Dave Shultz (only the first three pitches though with Dave - we replaced the bolts on that one).
I always wanted to solo it but the knobs can break too easily - even the solid looking ones go once in a while. No matter what, the friction climbing on the third pitch would be the hardest part of the solo - you'd have to have three testicles to do that!!!
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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May 16, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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True story, I have a buddy that has 3 testicles. Nickname, Triball. Girlfriends nick names all the way back to high school.... The Juggler 1, the Juggler 2, Juggler 3, and so on. But he couldn't solo the B-Y.
Prod
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:54pm PT
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This thread is really bad-ass.
Bump for sheer palm sweating awesome-ness.
-Aaron
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 20, 2007 - 09:11pm PT
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What's bad ass about it?
Your mother had to give your birth and raise you.
Now isn't that bad ass enough for ya ...........?
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