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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i don't get it. me and the 'natrix did all that stuff on the left side of arch, many times, and it was all good. no bad juju at all. loved those routes.
would our habit of sacrificing goats and chickens and then having crazy monkey sex on alpine mountaintops as the sun rises on the solstice, and our constant craving for warm lamb's blood, or our practice of hugging trees whenever we got the opprtunity, figure into this??
one wonders......
yosemite is granite. granite is our source. all granite is good granite. juju is a state of mind, not a vibe cast down upon you.
granite saved my life. give thanks.
archrock4EVAR.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Arch rock has some of the best routes in the park: greased my way up Midterm with Platinum, borrowed Lucho's shoes and thrutched up up Leanie Meanie, watched Sanam send the second pitch of English Breakfast crack because I refused to "take", Lorna showed me how to crack climb on Torque Converter, had one of my most memorable solos on Gripper, also caught a sh#t load of poison oak down there. Not sure if I'm itchin' for Arch or itchin' cause of Arch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Concerning EBC and other Arch Rock route development. Were most of these lines cleaned out while on the sharp end or was some gardening or previewing considered acceptable at that time?
Like most cracks, I bet EBC had plenty of dirt and munge to greet the FA party and hence the aid.
I had yet another weird Arch Rock occurance on this fabulous line! I was leaning well back onto the anchors at the end of the first pitch while my partner was just about to top out on the second one. I took my eyes off of him and surveyed the splendor all around when suddenly my thigh got slapped by a mysterious piece of fast moving webbing. My partner's hammer had popped out of the holster on the last exit move and the shoulder sling knot had become untied. The weighty little menace rocketed to the ground unnoticed until it passed right between my outstretched legs and woke my ass right up! No brainbucket, of course!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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it is a wonderful place with worthy challenges...
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
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a couple recent shots of the New D
I'd only add that I certainly felt like I was in the Old Weak Dimension when I did it.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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bump, for great place
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fsck
climber
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Jun 21, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jun 21, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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^^^^That is truly an iconic photo. One of my favorites.
The first route I ever climbed on Arch Rock was English Breakfast Crack. Hot damn that thing is great! What a stupendous climb, with the cruxy bit right near the end! Laybacking, fingers, hands, OW. Its got all the important food-groups.
After that, my partner and I decided New D would be a great choice. We bailed after the first pitch, the heat and humidity had become horrendous.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 21, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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Anybody else ever check out the Ice Caves in the Talus? We we doing the approach one day and came across a hole in the talus blocks that was blasting out ice-cold air. I mean f*#king refridgerated. Brents Hawks crawled in there and got about 30 feet. When he came out he said he could have gone further but not without a headlamp. His lips were blue and he was shivering. It was easily in the high 80's at the time.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Jun 21, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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getting closer to the time arch is going to open again, anyone climbed new d in august? might not be to bad late afternoon in the cool corner. i sure miss that route, best little crack climb on the planet.
bvb i always wondered if someone went exploring in that frigid cave
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 21, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Bulwinkle sandbagged me into leading a 5.8 named Entrance Exam one time.
I was new to the Valley and I thought I was hot shi#....
after EE I was humbled...
hhooman..... good times
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 21, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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That's a nice pic of your bride, Dan. Did Jocelyn catch up with you guys yesterday? She was staying at the Awhanee on the 19/20th, then off to the meadows with the kids and her BF in tow.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 21, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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Here is a question for the masses: does anyone else feel that P1 on New D is the actual crux pitch? It is for me, and always has been. Wierd, can't-quite-get-'em-to-lock fingerjams that make you lean this way then that, awkward, occasionally insecure, never, ever felt easy or wired and I did the pitch a little differently every time I climbed it. The last pitch always felt like a completely locked splitter to me and I'd often do the whole pitch on three or four TCU's, mostly for the peace of mind of whoever was belaying. I'd call the first pitch a very manly 5.11a and the last pitch maybe 10c. Of course, my predeliction for uncomplicated splitter finger cracks figures heavily into this assessment, and that first pitch...I've heard a lot of pretty good climbers say it really got their attention.
I watched Werner solo the route once. '87 or so. He flowed uphill like water. Did the first pitch in about three minutes. Humbling.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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I've never been able to do the first pitch w/o bleeding. 0 for 3!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 21, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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Don't know what made me remember but one time I did ND (my favorite Arch route) with Vern Clevenger and we didn't get enough so we dropped down on a TR and started doing laps on the last pitch. We were both real macho and stubborn and always stealing each other's girlfriends and this was going to settle it - whoever fagged out first was the loser, the Nancyboy, the chump. We must have climbed that last pitch like twenty times each and had to hike down in the dark. My hands felt like somebody ran over them with a skiploader. I stumbled down to the Merced and just stuck my mitts in the water but sure, Vern, I'm fine. Couldn't be better. And what was that girl's name again?
Back then, Vern was a stud. I hope he's doing well wherever he is . . .
JL
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jun 21, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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BVB, P1 seemed so much harder than 10b, I've never gone past it...the first time up the sun was shining straight into the crack at around 11am spring or summer. I was second, so there was no issue of being gripped (just humbled). Around the same time, short circuit, felt solid. (Had only been on it once 15 years before as a noob, and had flailed, so there was no issue of having it wired.) Cracks. Go figure.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jun 21, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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softspot in my heart for this place. To me it typifies Yosemite climbing. At the base when you are staring across the valley, it can feel magical.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 21, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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A couple of awesome routes:
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 21, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Just saw this thread, been climbing at COR. Arch Rock was always my favorite cliff in the Valley. Many fond memories of climbing there with Chappy, Rab, Bev, Wunsch, Bragg and others. Tired from driving but I'll post a couple of stories tomorrow.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jun 21, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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bvb,
I only climbed New Dimensions once, and it was a long time ago, but
when I followed the 1st pitch, I kept telling myself how glad I was not to
be leading it.
When I followed the 4th pitch (I led the 3rd) I was just thinking about how
cool the climbing was. I would have been glad to lead it.
Of course, I had just had the privilege of watching Vandiver stroll up it.
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